Jamis Bicycle Owner's Manual - page 19
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E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the forwardmost position.
This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
On any bicycle, this technique will also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to help you determine if the combination of
frame size, crank arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use results in pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not,
you must keep the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety
by increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to
avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or
chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over
the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle
of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use
with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts which might make it more difficult
for you to insert or remove your foot should not be used with toeclips and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until
it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to lose control
and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t
tighten them until your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic with your toe
straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling
efficiency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. They only
engage or disengage with a very specific motion which must be practiced until it becomes instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats
which are compatible with the make and model pedal being used.
e. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of
adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:
•a3,5,7,8,12speedorpossiblyaninfinitelyvariableinternalgearhub
•one,orsometimestwoshifters
•oneortwocontrolcables
•onefrontsprocketcalledachainring
•adrivechain
a. Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After
you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the
shift.
b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear is for the greatest speed.
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to
an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions
— a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with
upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic,
until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have
difficulties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of
adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.