JBL Control 1X Troubleshooting
WIRING DIAGRAM
EVA Gasket
Black
C1006X
Crossover Network
Nut, M4x0.7Px3t
mm Zinc-Plated
Nut
M5x0.8mm
Zinc-Plated
Die-Cast Alum.
Safety Ring, Black
Spring
Washer
C1004X
Metal Grille, Black
C1004X-S
Metal Grille, Silver
Tweeter
Diffuser
Control 1X – C1005X
Control 1Xtreme – C10028X
Control One C10028A
Logo Badge
on Grille
Front Baffle
Black
Control 1X/1Xtreme/One
(NOT for SALE)
Grille Holding Ring
Black
C1003X
4-1/2" Woofer
C1002X
Tweeter
Screw
4x8mm
Black-Plated
Screw
T4x35mm
Black-Plated
Screw
3.5x10mm
Black-Plated
Screw
4x18mm
Black-Plated
JBL Control
®
1X/1Xtreme/One
JBL Loudspeaker Troubleshooting/Repair Tips
Most customers prefer to do simple loudspeaker repairs themselves. By following the steps below, a majority of loudspeakers can be returned to
their original factory performance with minimum effort. Choose the example that best describes the problem you are experiencing.
Problem 1: No sound or distorted sound from one loudspeaker in a pair (or set)
Connect the dead/distorting loudspeaker to a different amplifier channel (one that had a functioning loudspeaker connected to it). If it functions
normally, the problem is not loudspeaker-related. If the loudspeaker still makes no sound or sounds distorted, a wire may have become loose
or disconnected, the network (also known as a crossover) may be defective, the drivers (woofer, tweeter, etc.) may be defective or, in very rare
cases, all may be defective.
Refer to the wiring diagram and exploded view below. The network is a small circuit board found on the inside of the terminal cup, or mounted to
an inside wall of the enclosure. It sends low-frequency sounds to the woofer, high-frequency sounds to the tweeter and, if applicable, mid-frequency
sounds to the midrange driver. Make sure all wires are secure and connected. Look for components on the network that look burnt, “bulged,”
or abnormal. If everything looks normal, connect the network to the drivers from another matching loudspeaker. MAKE SURE you attach the
correct wires to each driver – mid- and low-frequency sounds can damage the tweeter! If there is still no sound or distorted sound, the network
is defective. If there is clean undistorted sound, the drivers are defective.
Problem 2: No sound or distorted sound from one or more (but not all) drivers in an enclosure
Remove the problem driver(s) from the enclosure and make sure all wires are secure and connected. If they are, proceed with the following test:
Woofer or midrange driver – Connect the driver’s + and – input terminals directly to the loudspeaker wires from your receiver/amplifier and play
some music at a reasonable volume. If the driver now sounds normal (produces a clean, undistorted sound), the network is most likely defective.
Tweeter – Replace the tweeter with a functioning tweeter from another loudspeaker. If the tweeter now functions normally (produces clean,
undistorted sound), the original tweeter is defective. If the replacement tweeter also sounds distorted or produces no sound, the network is
most likely defective.
Problem 3: Loudspeakers distort, rattle or pop at higher volumes
This is usually NOT a loudspeaker problem. Common causes are too much power (playing the loudspeakers too loud and causing them to distort),
an amplifier with not enough power (the amplifier can’t produce the required volume without distorting), excessive equalization (turning the tone
controls too far clockwise, and/or engaging the loudness/bass boost button on your receiver) or some combination of the above. If only one
loudspeaker is exhibiting the problem, and you’re confident that it’s not caused by too little power/too much power/excessive equalization, see
solutions for Problems 1 and 2.
TO SERVICE THE CONTROL 1X/1XTREME/ONE
1. Remove the grille.
2. Remove all (6) 1-3/8" Allen-head screws holding the front baffle to the enclosure.
3. Separate the front baffle w/drivers from the enclosure.
DRIVER REMOVAL – Both woofer and tweeter are bonded to the front baffle with adhesive.
Unclip FASTON connectors from both woofer and tweeter.
a) Woofer removal:
Remove all (4) machine screws; rear nut can be held by long-nosed pliers while screws are turned.
Apply heat gun (750°) to area around woofer basket until adhesive softens enough to extract the woofer.
b) Tweeter removal:
Remove both (2) Phillips screws.
Apply heat gun (750°) to area around inside of cavity until adhesive softens enough to extract the tweeter.
After removal, take care not to lose or misplace the small clear plastic diffuser should it become dislodged.
CAUTION: Too much heat applied in one area too long could warp the front baffle.
DRIVER REPLACEMENT
Both woofer and tweeter must have a bead of adhesive applied to the outer rim only upon reassembly.
Silicone sealer or rubber-to-metal cement is recommended.
EXPLODED VIEW
Note: A Phillips screwdriver and 3mm Allen wrench
(hex key) are required to service this product.