Assembly manual taube 40 balsa usa p.O. Box 164 marinette, wi 54143 (906) 863-6421 © copyright 1997 read through the instruction manual first to familiarize yourself with the type of construction used in this model. The manual also contains important warnings and instructions for the assembly and th...
T ta au ub be e 4 40 0 building instructions thank you for purchasing our completely new taube 40 kit. A lot more has changed than just this new instruction booklet! We have simplified the construction in many areas which will hopefully make your building experience more enjoyable. Our step-by-step,...
The taube is built using balsa, spruce, birch plywood, lite (poplar) plywood, and basswood. Each of these woods have their own characteristics and were chosen for the best strength to weight ratios for the model. Each has a characteristic end grain pattern that is shown on the plans. Since most of t...
Wood identification adhesives if balsa usa gold ca products are used for the construction of this model, no other adhesives will be necessary. If another ca product is used for the construction, we recommend the use of epoxy for the dihedral braces, attaching the firewall, and landing gear blocks. T...
Key to die cut parts (2) balsa sheets required - 1/8 x 3-5/8 x 39 fuse sides (4) balsa sheets required - 1/8 x 3 x 30 (1) lite-ply - 1/8 x 3-3/8 x 9-1/4 f-2 front dihedral brace rear dihedral brace (1) lite-ply sheet - 1/8 x 4 x 12 (1) birch plywood - 1-64 x 7-1/2 x 11 front deck sheeting rear cockp...
Key to die cut parts fuse doubler (6) balsa sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 12 main half rib main half rib main rib w-2 main rib w-2 leading edge corners (1) balsa sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21 (2) balsa sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 14 (2) lite-ply - 1/8 x 3-1/8 x 9-1/2 w-6 w-6 w-6 f-3c f-2b f-3a tip gusset tip half rib tip half rib...
Wing construction starts here the taube wings look difficult to build at first glance, but the way the model is designed, they will go together quite easily. It will just be a little different compared to the models you have previ- ously built. So don’t worry about it! Let’s get started. We will be ...
11.) glue all (10) main false ribs in place. 12.) glue the two w-1 center ribs in place. 13.) to fit rib w-3, you will have to trim the front and back tip to match the leading edge and trailing edge curvature. Also you will need to trim the spar notches so the spars will fit at the necessary angle. ...
21.) use the 1/4 x 1/4 x 15 for the upper wingtip spar. Cut the angle at the front of the spar so it will fit flush against the back side of the front spar. Trim the rib notches at an angle for the spar so it will fit in place properly. Taper the outer end of the spar as shown in the “wingtip spars”...
29.) use the 3/32 x 3 x 18 to sheet the center section from the forward spar to the leading edge. Cut the sheeting to extend over the rib about 1/4” on the outside. 30.) sheet the next two pieces of center section using 3/32 x 3 x 12 balsa. Note that the ribs at the trailing edge may have to be sand...
Stabilizer construction: 1.) cut the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strips to length. Note that both ends of these pieces need to be cut and an angle. Pin them in place. 2.) cut the 1/4 x 1/2 trailing edge to fit and pin it in place. Use the 24” long piece supplied. 3.) cut the two shorter pieces of 1/4 x 1/2 bals...
3.) on former f-4, be sure to mark both lines. 4.) use a 1/4” stick as a spacer and move the second fuse side further above the other. This is done just so you don’t accidentally glue both fuse sides together. 5.) on the first fuse side, pin down the upper part of the fuse side just above the stab c...
10.) refer to photo 40. Mark the centers on the tops of formers f-2, f-3, and f-4. Note that f-2 is marked at the top of the upper longeron. 11.) move the plans so former f-2 will be over the edge of the building board as shown in photo 42. Line former f-4 up and pin the fuse sides down to the board...
18.) cut the 3/8 x 3/4 hardwood landing gear block to length and glue in place. Note that it will be 1/8” higher than the fuse sides. 19.) block sand the fuse bottom to give the bottom sheeting a nice flat surface to glue 20.) use the 1/8 x 3 x 30 balsa to sheet the bottom of the fuse from the lg bl...
29.) measure from a point at the junction of the aft spar and the wingtip spar to the center of the tail of the fuselage as shown above. Do this on both sides of the wing and adjust the wing until both measurements are exactly the same. When the measurements are the same, the wing will be square wit...
37.) draw a vertical centerline on the 1/4” plywood firewall. Draw a horizontal (thrust) line 1-3/4” up from the bottom edge of the firewall. Line up the engine mount you have chosen using these lines and drill the mounting holes. 38.) remove the mount and drill out the motor mount holes with a 5/32...
48.) this is going to be a tough step. Use a nickel to draw a circle around the wing bolt holes. Now cut the wing sheeting out to the lines to allow the wing bolts to pass through. 49.) sand just the back facing side of the laminated f-3a formers at the angle shown above so the top deck sheeting wil...
53.) refer to photo 69. Trim and fit the aft cockpit sheeting. This sheet is cut oversize intentionally on the bottom sides and in the back so there will be plenty of room to trim it for your model. When trimming the bottom edges, use a straight edge and hobby knife to make the trim cuts. Trim both ...
5.) measure back 4-5/8” from the second aft deck former and glue the two piece former in place on each side of the fin. 6.) cut and glue in place the 3/16 x 1/4 x 6 balsa strip from former f-4a to the fin. Make sure it is centered on the fin. 7.) cut to length and glue a 3/16 x 3/16 x 10 balsa strip...
16.) pin the 1/4 x 1/4 x 10 rudder post in place over the plans. Sand the outside edges of the rudders round except where they will be glued to the rudder post. If you wish, you can also radius the aft corners slightly so they will be easier to cover. 17.) glue the rudders to the rudder post. Trim a...
5.) fit and glue in place the 1/8” balsa nose piece. 6.) notch the upper longeron so you can run a 5/32” drill bit through the landing gear blocks and out the bottom. If you don’t have a drill bit long enough to do this, the blocks can be drilled out from the bottom. Be careful drilling so the drill...
Control surface throws: elevator - 1/2” up and down rudder - 1-3/4” right and left pre-flight and flying now we are finally getting to the good part! You will find that the taube 40 will be one of the easiest and most relaxing models that you have flown in a long time. However, before we get down to...
