Factory five racing, inc. Do not duplicate confidential information and protected under u.S. Copyright laws 2012 factory five racing, inc. Company/instructions part number: 33871 revision: d effective date: 6/4/12 by: j. Ingerslev document type (indicate): bill of material drawing (may be atta...
2 engine/transmission installation ............................................................................................................................................21 fuel system .................................................................................................................
3 ford motor co. Parts f3ly-6c070-a – flywheel access hole plug br3z-8260-b – mustang upper radiator hose w500310.S438- starter bolts (3 needed) br3z-6379-a – flywheel bolt (8 needed) - if not already on engine summit racing fuel system aei-13301 – 6an fuel pressure regulator sum-220166b – 6an o-rin...
4 information these instructions assume that the customer has the hot rod coyote installation kit from factory five racing use the following diagram as a guide for harness locations. Engine prep oil filter relocator ⅜” hex key, 8mm socket, ratchet, teflon tape, ratchet extensions, ⅞” wrench, vise gr...
5 put the o-ring in the relocator groove and screw the spin-on adapter onto the block. Use one of the hose adapters to turn the relocator if necessary so that the spin-on adapter is oriented front to back..
6 use teflon tape on the port plugs. Screw the plugs into the rear of the spin-on adapter..
7 use teflon tape on the hose fittings. Screw the hose fittings into the front of the spin-on adapter. Screw hose fittings into the relocator..
8 screw the threaded nipple into the relocator. Decide on a location for the relocator. We located it under the steering rack in the center of the frame “x” so that the filter is accessible from under the car but is high enough to allow clearance. This did require an extra 90° fitting as shown in th...
9 oil pressure sender pipe fittings, gauge assembly h14 hex key, 12mm deep, 13 / 16 ”, 1 1 / 16 ” sockets, ratchet, teflon tape, ratchet extensions, ⅜”, (2) 9 / 16 ”, 11 / 16 ”, ⅞” wrenches, vise grips remove the stock oil pressure sender from the block located behind the alternator..
10 use teflon tape and install the oil pressure gauge sender. From the gauge box, screw on the ¼” npt adapter..
11 put teflon tape on the adapter then screw on the “t” adapter fitting. Put teflon tape on the 1.50” npt tube..
12 use vise grip pliers to attach the 1.50” tube to the sender assembly. Use teflon tape and install the pipe fitting assembly in the oil pressure location on the engine so that the side port faces up for now..
13 use teflon tape and install the oem oil pressure sender in the side of the t fitting. Water temp sender h14 hex key or socket, 1 1 / 16 ” socket, 12mm deep socket, extension, ratchet, teflon tape water temp gauge sending unit.
14 remove the ¾” npt plug from the side of the block using a h14 hex key or socket. Put teflon tape on the ¾” npt to ½” npt adapter..
15 screw the adapter into the block using a 1 1 / 16 ” socket. Use teflon tape on the ⅛” npt to ¼” npt adapter included with the gauge..
16 screw the adapter into the larger adapter on the block. Put teflon tape on the sending unit..
17 use a 12mm deep socket to screw the sender into the adapters. Engine bolts the engine ends up extremely close to the firewall. Cut any extra length off the bolts to prevent damaging the firewall..
18 alternator boss hack saw or jig saw use a hack saw or sawzall with a course wood blade, a fine metal blade will get gummed up with the aluminum. Use a marker to mark the top stock alternator boss on the driver side as shown. It will hit the frame otherwise..
19 cut the boss on the line marked with a jig saw transmission prep hack saw or reciprocating saw, ¾” socket, ratchet transmission, polyurethane engine/transmission mount kit the two aluminum spacers provides are not used. If you are using a tremec 3550, tko 500 or, a tko 600 you will need to trim o...
20 trim it flush or just below the pad for the transmission mount. If not already done, install the flywheel and clutch on the engine. Remove the vibration damping weight from the clutch fork, it is not needed. Attach the bellhousing and clutch fork to the engine. Attach the transmission to the engi...
21 engine/transmission installation if electric steering is installed, undo the mounting bolts and rotate the motor down out of the way. Install the engine and transmission per the assembly manual..
22 attach the polyurethane transmission mount to the frame mount and transmission using the 1.09” and 0.32” spacers provided. If using electric steering, reattach the motor mounting bolts. Make sure there is some clearance between the oil pan and motor. Redrill/slot one or two of the mounting holes ...
23 fuel system fuel pressure regulator, fittings, fuel hose, hose clamps, high pressure fuel pump the coyote engine requires a 255 lph high pressure fuel pump such as the summit racing sum- g3138 fuel pump. Either an inline pump or intank pump can be used depending on preference. Mount a fuel pressu...
24 push the ⅜” fuel line onto the right side of the regulator then attach a hose clamp and run it over to the engine fuel rail. Push the white fuel line connector onto the fuel rail. Hold the fuel line up to the connector and cut it to length with a razor knife. Remove the fuel line connector. Slide...
25 push the white connector onto the fuel rail. Cut a 2.50” section from the length of ½” hose provided. Assemble the ½” to 5 / 32 ” 90 degree adapter. Push the ½” side into the short section of ½” hose and fasten with a hose clamp. Slide a second hose clamp onto the hose. Push the ½” hose onto the ...
26 push the vacuum line onto the fuel pressure regulator. Push the vacuum line onto the hose adapter..
27 cooling system razor knife, flat head screwdriver, wire cutters, hack saw, marker stainless radiator hose kit push the correct size adapters onto to the thermostat housing with a length of the stainless hose..
28 route the stainless hose around towards the center of the frame, down then straight forward to the lower radiator outlet and mark the hose for cutting. Remove the stainless hose and cut it where marked with a hack saw. Reinstall the hose..
29 cut the plastic clamp off the stock upper hose. Cut and remove the rubber hose from the plastic adapter..
30 attach one of the kit hose adapters to the plastic adapter push the adapter onto the engine..
31 attach another hose adapter to the radiator. Route and cut the radiator hose so that the hose curls towards the right side of the car not the left (the air filter goes there)..
32 push the bypass caps onto the tubes to the left of the throttle body and hose clamp the lower one. For air bleeding later, remove the top cap until coolant starts going up the tube then recap and hose clamp. This top one is one of the heater core hose locations if running a heater and a/c. Push a...
33 cap and hose clamp the ¾” coolant. This is the other heater core location if running a heater and a/c. If running a heater and a/c, the stock mustang heater hoses work well. The numbers for the hoses are:.
34 br3z.18472.B br3z.18472.D vacuum ports and pcv vent flat head screwdriver, razor knife, wd40 vacuum plugs, pcv lines, ½” rubber hose, t connector there are a couple ways to route the pcv hose depending on your emission requirements (tough or relaxed).
35 block off the vacuum ports and fuel evaporator intake tube just behind the throttle body. Tough emissions if not already done, connect the right side stock pcv hose from the valve cover to behind the throttle body..
36 install a ½” barb fitting in the intake tube after the mass air meter but before the throttle body. Carefully cut the 90° pcv fittings out of one of the pcv lines without damaging the barbs. Push the ½” heater hose onto the pcv fitting..
37 attach the fitting to the left side valve cover. Run the hose over to the intake barb and cut the hose to length. Use a hose clamp to attach the hose to the intake tube..
38 relaxed emissions carefully cut the 90° pcv fittings off the pcv lines without damaging the barbs. Spray some wd40 into the end of the hose and push the ½” heater hose onto one of the pcv fittings..
39 push the fitting onto the left valve cover and run the hose forward just left of the throttle body. Cut the hose at the back of the engine with a razor knife. Push the remaining hose onto the other 90° pcv fitting again using wd40..
40 push the fitting onto the right valve cover and run the hose around the front of the engine to the left side. Insert the “t” fitting into left side hose. Cut the right side hose so that it will go onto the “t”..
41 push the right side hose onto the “t”. Push the remainder of the hose onto the third leg of the “t” and run it down behind the coolant inlet..
42 run the hose under the oil pressure sender then over the electric steering (if used) and cut the hose. Steering shaft hack saw, 7 / 16 ” socket, ratchet, 3 / 16 ” drill bit, drill, 3 / 16 ” hex key hot rod steering parts remove the middle steering shaft that goes from the firewall to the lower st...
43 loosely attach the pillow block to the tube clamps, the screws will not tighten because of the tube. Locate the tube clamps on the tube so that the shaft is as straight as possible and then tighten the clamps..
44 remove the pillow block screws and use a marker or small drill bit through the screw hole to mark the location on the 1” tube. Remove the tube clamps. Drill the marked locations using a ¼” drill bit. This will allow the pillow block mounting screw to go into the tube and also prevent the tube cla...
45 the main wiring harness will exit the cockpit towards the right side of the transmission tunnel. Black circuit board box small and large philips head screwdriver open the black box and remove the nut on the post marked “fan”..
46 put the orange wire ring connector onto the post. Tighten the nut on the fan post then bend the ring connector up so the wire clears the white connector..
47 push the white multipin connector onto the matching connector on the circuit board. Run the white plug wires and the orange fan plug out of the box in the slot provided near the plug..
48 connect the green power plug inside the box. It gets attached using a large philips head screwdriver through the bottom of the box..
49 reattach the top of the box. Find a location on the frame to mount the box, we suggest to the right of the center of the car on the tubes behind the firewall. If using an a/c unit, there is enough room behind the dash to mount the box to the a/c unit. In the following picture an aluminum piece wa...
50 attach the black box to the frame or mount using some of the self tapping aluminum screws used to hold the aluminum to the frame during shipping. Fuel pump remove the fuse from the fuel pump circuit on the chassis harness fuse panel..
51 on the back of the fuse panel, cut the tan wire going from the relay to the fuse area. Route the coyote harness fuel pump green wire to the back of the chassis harness fuel panel..
52 cut the wire to length and solder the tan and green wires together. Neutral safety switch if not using the neutral safety switch in the coyote harness, route the wire (blue/yellow) to a ground on the chassis..
53 cut the wire to length and crimp on a blue ring connector. Attach the ring connector to ground..
54 computer mounting ratchet, 10mm deep socket, 5 / 32 ” hex key, pliers place the computer mounting bracket onto the front oil pan stud on the right side of the engine as shown and the side mount stud on the left side of the engine..
55 use a 10mm deep socket and 6mm locknuts to mount the bracket. If using electric steering, hold the computer up to the front side of the bracket with the plastic side of the computer on top and check for clearance with the electric steering motor..
56 if necessary, use a pair of channel lock pliers to bend the computer bracket up slightly so there will be clearance for the computer. Test fit the computer again then attach the computer to the bracket..
57 run the computer plugs on the right side of the oil pan..
58 plug the two engine harness plugs into the computer..
59 pull the harness tight along the oil pan and zip tie the harness to the mounting eyes on the oil pan. Starter solenoid the solenoid on the starter is the one being used to start the engine..
60 run the battery cable to the starter solenoid along the transmission from the battery. Attach the battery cable to the starter solenoid. Make sure not to push the cable too far over or it may contact the starter post..
61 attach the tan/green wire to the starting post on the solenoid. Run the ground wire that exits the harness with the tan/green starter wire over to your engine ground strap ground or some frame ground..
62 crimp a ring connector to the ground wire. Attach the wire to ground. Attach the battery cable, starter wire and ground wire to the oil pan with the wiring harness..
63 cut the chassis harness blue starter solenoid wire back to the harness conduit. Use electrical tape to cover the end of the blue wire..
64 radiator cooling fan it is best to let the engine control the radiator fan. If you do not want to do this, do not use the wires and remove the correct radiator fan fuse from the black box and skip this section. Pull the blue fan wire out of the chassis harness back to the steering bearing mount..
65 cut the blue fan wire. Remove the fan relay from the fuse panel..
66 remove the fan fuse. Run the orange and black coyote harness fan wires over to the front chassis harness..
67 run the fan wires forward to the front of the frame with the chassis harness. Power/start soldering iron, wire cutters/strippers, electrical tape.
68 locate the efi/crank and coil wires in the chassis harness. Route the coyote 12v start/run wire (red/green) and 12v start (red/blue) wires to the chassis harness efi wires and cut to length..
69 connect the 12v start/run wire (red/green) wire to the orange coil wire. Connect the 12v start (red/blue) wire to the blue crank wire..
70 gauges tach find the purple tach wire in the sending unit plug and cut it so the engine harness can get connected to the purple wire..
71 run the engine harness tan/yellow tach wire over to the purple wire and solder them together. Water temp sender wire cutter, wire crimper, ⅜” wrench.
72 run the blue water temp chassis harness wire to the sending unit and cut to length. Crimp a ring terminal to the sending unit wire..
73 attach the ring terminal to the water temp sending unit. Oil temp sender ⅜”, 11 / 16 ” wrenches, wire cutter, wire crimper.
74 push the engine/computer harness plug onto the stock sending unit. Run the chassis harness gray oil pressure wire to sending unit and cut to length. Crimp on a blue ring terminal connector..
75 rotate the sending unit so the computer sending unit is facing the rear of the engine. Attach the sending unit wire ring terminal to the sending unit..
76 o 2 harness soldering iron, wire cutters/strippers, electrical tape locate the right side o 2 wires in the coyote harness near the bellhousing. Zip tie the harness forward to the harness going to the computer..
77 run the left side o 2 wires between the oil pan and bellhousing over to the left side of the engine. Intercooler wire cut the white/red intercooler pump wire as far back in the harness as you can. It is not needed or used..
78 power distribution wire cutters/strippers, electrical tape, wire crimpers. We used an extra starter solenoid for power distribution in these instructions. A distribution post is provided in the coyote kit. The solenoid on the starter is the one being used to start the engine. Locate and attach th...
79 use some of the aluminum panel #6 screws to attach the obd 2 plug to the frame. Alternator 10mm, 13mm, (2) 17mm wrenches, 10mm socket, ratchet, wire stripper, wire crimper alternator, alternator drive kit the stock alternator is designed to run counter clockwise and the frame goes through the sto...
80 put the large long bolt through the alternator and place the spacer on the bolt. Attach the alternator to the mounting bracket leaving the nut so that the alternator can rotate..
81 pass the short bolt through the other bracket mounting hole and place the small id spacer on the bolt. Thread the bolt into the alternator..
82 tighten the alternator mounting bolts. Run the bracket mounting bolts through the bracket and put the spacers on the bolts..
83 remove the timing cover screws at the points shown in the picture above. Attach the mounting bracket to the engine keeping the engine control harness behind the bracket..
84 attach the belt tensioner to the timing chain cover and tighten to 18 lbft (25nm) then route the belt as shown. Wiring run the red chassis harness alternator wire under the firewall up to the right side of the engine..
85 run the alternator wire to the front of the engine next to the engine harness. Run the alternator wire down to the alternator output post. Cut the wire to length and attach a yellow ring terminal connector..
86 put the ring terminal on the alternator output post. Tighten the locknut on the output post so that the nut is snug. Do not over-tighten or the post might break..
87 if a dash charge indicator light is desired, run a wire from the “lamp” connector back to a dash light that is grounded on the other side of the light. Locate the coyote harness yellow alternator wire (vbat monitor) and run it to the alternator plug. Cut the wire to length. Test fit the small con...
88 crimp the small blue connector onto the yellow wire. Connect the wire to the “ignition” connector on the alternator..
89 accelerator pedal 5 / 32 ” hex key, 7 / 16 ” wrench, marker, 3 / 16 ”, ¼” drill bits, drill, hack saw, masking tape, clamp use a hack saw to remove the extra part of the right pedal mount..
90 mark where the bend is in the pedal. Cut the pedal at the point marked. On the pad part, if desired trim the stalk down to the top of the pad..
91 tape the pedal pad to the stalk on the mount part of the pedal and hold the pedal up in place in the pedal box. Readjust the location of the pad up and down as desired. The higher the pad is located the harder the pedal will be to press due to the internal springs in the stock pedal mount..
92 remove the pedal and locate the larger pedal mount plate on the pedal so that the short side is on the solid side of the stalk and the longer side is under the pedal pad. Make the bracket flush with the bottom side of the pad. Holding the aluminum in place on the stalk, turn the stalk over to see...
93 set up two ¼” nuts as drill guides for the bracket by putting two ¼” lock nuts in the hollow part of the stalk so that the nuts are spread away from each other but still within the mount plate area. Remove the mount plate and drill through the nuts and pedal stalk using a 3 / 16 ” drill bit..
94 relocate the bracket using the pedal pad and mark the bracket through the holes in the stalk. Drill through the bracket at the points marked using a 3 / 16 ” drill bit. Stack the two mount brackets so that the sides are even and the tops are touching..
95 clamp the brackets together so that the holes in the large bracket can be used as a guide for drilling the small bracket. With the brackets clamped together still, open the bracket holes up to ¼”.
96 enlarge one of the holes in the stalk to ¼”. Put a ¼”bolt through one of the brackets and the stalk, align the other hole then clamp the two together..
97 drill the second hole out in the stalk to ¼”. Bolt the two brackets to the stalk..
98 in the footbox, attach the plug to the pedal. Hold the pedal up in the footbox area so that the pedal is as far over to the right as possible and as high as possible with the plug going up next to the steering column bolt..
99 drill through the top left pedal mount hole and the front of the footbox. Insert one of the mount bolts through the pedal and hole just drilled..
100 check the alignment of the pedal and the plug then drill the bottom left mount hole. Insert another mount bolt..
101 drill the top right pedal mount hole with a ¼” drill bit. Locate and tape the pedal pad to the mount plates on the stalk. Un-plug and remove the pedal from the footbox.
102 mark the back mount plate in the vertical location of the center of the recess in the pedal pad so that the lock nuts will not hit the supports in the plastic..
103 drill through the middle of the mount plates at the heights marked so that there is enough room for the locknuts. If you would like the pedal mount brackets to “disappear”, tape off and paint the brackets and mount bolts using flat black paint now..
104 check the angle of the pedal pad then clamp the pedal pad to the mount brackets. Drill through the back of the pedal pad into the recess..
105 attach the pedal pad to the mount brackets finished accelerator pedal assembly..
106 connect the harness plug to the pedal. From the engine bay side, insert the mounting screws through the firewall into the cockpit..
107 put the pedal on the mounting bolts. Put washers on the pedal mount bolts..
108 tighten the mounting bolts using a 7 / 16 ” socket, ratchet and 5 / 32 ” hex key. Air intake mass air meter t-20 torx driver, philips head screwdriver, sensor safe rtv mass air meter, silicone hoses, intake tubes, air filter.
109 unscrew the mass air sensor from the ford intake using a t-20 torx driver remove the sensor and note the direction of the curved part of the sensor..
110 install the rubber ring into the intake mount. Insert the sensor into the mount to determine which way around it needs to go so the sensor mount holes will line up and the sensor will mount the correct way..
111 attach the mount to the intake tube using the long screws so that the flat side of the sensor will face the “spectre” writing. Install the sensor on the mount using the short screws so the flat side of the sensor will face the “spectre” writing..
112 run a bead of sensor safe rtv silicone around the flange of the large plastic reducer. Slide the mass air meter tube flat sensor side first (spectre writing) down onto the plastic reducer. Wipe any excess rtv off the tube..
113 turn the mass air meter over so the reducer is on the top and let the rtv dry overnight. Intake tube.
114 slide the mass air meter tube flat sensor side first (spectre writing) into the air filter. Adjust the mass air meter so that the mass air plug is on the far side as the ford racing instructions recommend..
115 tighten the hose clamp. Connect the elbow tube to the mass air meter using the silicone connector; only tighten one of the hose clamps right now. Attach the silicone reducer to the tube elbow..
116 push the intake tube onto the throttle body and position the air filter so that it clears the upper control arm and engine covers (if used). Tighten the hose clamps..
117 push the mass air plug onto the mass air meter. Exhaust 15mm, 17mm sockets, 15mm wrench coyote headers, straight pipes the threads in the heads for the headers changed a couple times during production be careful when installing the headers bolts so the threads are not ruined. After removing the ...
118 attach the headers to the engine by inserting and tighten all of the bolts by hand before tightening any with a wrench. Attach the connector pipes to the headers and kit exhaust system..
119 starting the engine oil, coolant if not already done, fill the engine with 8 quarts of the correct oil. If not already done, fill the engine with coolant through the radiator cap. To help remove air from the system, remove the top cap until coolant starts going up the tube then recap and hose cl...
