FB Jets F16 Falcon Assembly Manual - page 9
FEI BAO F-16 1/6TH
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Refer to the general construction tips for an explanation on gearing up the air systems.
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Install two air tanks in the space behind the rear component board, with the large tank in
the middle. Use several dots of silicone glue such as Zap-a-Gap-a-Goo. Don’t overdo the
glue, however, as you may want to remove the tanks in the future.
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When the glue is dry, run air system lines to the tanks. In our F16, all air and fuel fill lines are
run to the rear component board for air and fuel filling and gauges as this assisted in
balance and the prevention of the use of lead.
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Layout the air system components on the rear component board and then bolt the board
into place with four small wood screws.
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Run air lines to the nose gear and nose door cylinders. A little patience and good skills with
a forceps will be required. Test each line as you go with a hand pump for leaks. It will also
help to follow a colour coding scheme for future line identification and trouble shooting.
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Be sure to locate the main undercarriage air tubing clear of the engine and with the
modification of the bypass protection of the air tubes to the main undercarriage can be
achieved.
Step 6: Vertical Fin and Rudder
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Before attaching the aft section of the fuse, the vertical fin and horizontal stabilizers need to
be attached and the wires run from the servos. This is because the pipe must be in the aft
section when installed, and access to the wiring is restricted once the pipe is in place.
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In most kits, the hinges are preinstalled in the control surfaces, but must be glued into the
flight surface. This is true for the rudder and fin. As the elevators are full flying, appropriate
installation with the servo connections is required.
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When removing the servo well covers, label appropriately for proper re-installation.
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Trial fit the rudder into the vertical stab. You may need to snip about 1/8 inch off the bottom
hinge as it butts up against the rear aluminium spar. Trim and sand to achieve the maximum
throw your servo arm will allow.
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Attach two aluminium “L” brackets to an 8411 servo or equivalent. Position the brackets
such that the spindle of the servo faces forward when installed in the servo well. Do not use
the rubber grommets supplied with the servo, but bolt it directly to the brackets. Use Loctite
as required.
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Using a JR Matchmaker or your receiver, power up the rudder servo and set it at neutral.
Attach the control arm at a vertical position.
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Position the servo on the two ply mounting tabs and attach the “L” bracket with 15mm
wood screws.
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Run the servo wire out of the bottom of the vertical stab.
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Trial fit the phenolic control arm in the slot routed in the rudder at the factory. You may
need to use a small carbide cutter to enlarge the slot slightly for a good fit. Be careful not to
route through the other side of the control surface. A small piece of tape wrapped around
the cutter at the proper depth will help prevent a mishap.
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Roughen the surface of the control arm where it will glue into the rudder with 100 grit
sandpaper.
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Tape around the slot with masking tape and apply a liberal amount of Aeropoxy or Hysol
into the slot (photo 4) to ensure it is secure but with no glue on your surfaces.
Photo 4 – Installation of control horns