Ibis Mojo Carbon Setup Manual

Congrats on your purchase of an Ibis Mojo Carbon.

At Ibis we think you should be spending a lot more time riding your bike and a lot 

less time working on your bike. We’ve designed the Mojo with that in mind. First, two 

requests:

 1)Readthisguide!

 2)Performthepropersetup!

You’ll be glad you did. After the initial 

tuning, there shouldn’t be a whole lot 

to do to keep the Mojo humming 

along for a long time.

The carbon fiber monocoque frame is extremely strong, and should provide years of 

trouble-free use, provided you care for it properly and don’t overly huck every 50 foot 

gap you see.

MojoCarbonPaint

There is a protective clear coat applied over the carbon weave. Although painted with 

high-quality polyurethane enamel, it is subject to scratching and can wear through with 

repeated rubbing of cables or chain slap. You have been provided with a set of ad-

hesive  vinyl  protectors  to  guard  against  cable  rub  and  chain  slap.  After  the  bike  is 

fully assembled move the bike through its suspension travel and apply the circular vinyl 

pieces to the frame so that the cables rub the vinyl not the clearcoat. There is a clear 

vinyl chainstay protector on the Mojo Carbon. We also have an aftermarket neoprene 

chainstay protector manufactured for us by LizardSkins available online at the Ibis store 

or from your Ibis dealer.

Keep your bike clean, and inspect it often. Although each and every bike gets tested at 

the factory for strength, it never hurts to look at the areas where the 'tubes' join, where 

the shocks and dropouts mount and any other areas that may receive stress during us-

age. Check for loose bearings, headsets, shocks and forks and such. Visually inspect 

the bike before each ride and also during each cleaning.

Put your freshly cleaned mojo in a workstand. 

Remove the front derailleur and the cranks.

Working on the links is much easier without 

the shock, so remove the bolts that hold the 

shock in place with two 4 mm and two 6 mm 

Allen wrenches.

Rotate the swingarm up to 

gain better access and remove 

the upper link screws at the 

seattube using a 5 mm Allen 

wrench.

Remove the upper links from the 

front triangle. It may take a bit of 

cajoling to get it removed from the 

shaft that’s in the frame. It’ll help 

to slightly spread the stays of the 

swingarm apart to get the links off.

Remove the axle in the lower link that 

passes through the front triangle with 

two 6 mm Allen wrenches.

Pull the swing arm and the 

lower link away from the front 

triangle. It may take a bit of 

cajoling to get it removed from 

the shaft thats in the frame. Try 

to pull more or less straightly 

backwards.

Notice that the two upper links are being 

pulled across the seat tube where the front 

derailleur mounts.

Remove the axle in the lower link 

that passes through the swingarm 

using two 5 mm Allen wrenches 

and detach the lower link from 

the swingarm. It may take a bit of 

cajoling to get it removed from the 

shaft that’s in the frame.

Remove the remaining 

screws in the upper links 

of the swingarm with a 5 

mm Allen wrench as well.

CONGRATS! You have your mojo in pieces 

now. 

01

06

02

07

03

08

04

09

05

10

SWINGARM REMOVAL

CABLE ROUTING

Rear Derailleur

Rear Brake

Front Derailleur

Piece of Innertube

Here’s a little advice on how to set up the cabling on your Mojo. The derail-

leur housing and rear brake hydraulic hose can be routed around the op-

posite side of the stem. The length of housing between the rear top tube stop 

and the upper swing arm stop for the rear derailleur should be kept as short 

as possible to keep it from bowing out and contacting your leg.

CARE AND FEEDING

INTRODUCTION

BOTTLECAGE

SETUP GUIDE

There are two heavy duty Riv-Nut inserts on the underside of the down tube to allow the 

mounting of a bottle cage. We’ve put it there primarily for a spare water bottle, a tool kit 

or for a battery if you’re night riding. 

Pleasedon’tattempttoretrieveawaterbottlefromthiscagelocation

duringriding!

There are extra long socket head screws provided for you use in these holes. They are 

longer than your average screw. We suggest using a heavy-duty cage for holding bat-

teries since the lighter weight cages don‘t seem to hold up to this sort of abuse.

Chuck Ibis

Toreassambleyourbikefollowthesteps01to10inreverseorder.

Remember to use a little loctite blue thread locker on all fasteners during reassembly 

otherwise all your pretty bits will be strewn along the trail.

We’ve chosen a nice little medley of components for you in our SX, XT XTR and WTF 

groups. If you choose not to use our kits and want to build from scratch, here’s a bit of 

info to help you on your shopping spree:

COMPONENTS

The  Mojos  (both  Carbon  and  SL)  are  designed  for  a 

140mm travel front fork, but 130 through 160mm travel 

forks also work well. The fork that comes with the Mojo 

Carbon is the Fox Float RLC with 140mm travel, or the 

130 mm Manitou MRD in the WTF Group.

The  Mojo  Carbon  uses  the  in-

tegrated  headset  based  on  the 

Cane Creek IS standard (aka the 

36° / 45° or 41 mm standard). These 

are available from Cane Creek and prob-

ably others. On our kits we use the Cane 

Creek IS2.

Disk brake only, with an international standard mounting.

The seatpost diameter is 31.6 mm.

Your Ibis seat tube comes pre-treated 

with a coating of non-conductive LPS-1 lubricant 

to protect the frame and seatpost against corrosion. If your bike 

is frequently wet, you might consider treating the frame / seatpost a few 

times a year.

We do not recommend using grease on your seatpost in an Ibis Carbon 

frame. We do recommend using either the FSA or the Tacx Carbon Assem-

bly Compounds. Not only are they corrosion inhibitors, they also contain 

a suspension of microscopic plastic beads which increase friction, thus de-

creasing the clamping force needed to secure the seatpost.

The Mojo Carbon uses a 34.9 mm top 

pull, bottom swing derailleur.

At the beginning of this setup guide, we mentioned that we were believers in the ride-

your-bike-more/work-on-your-bike-less school of thought. In this section of pivot bear-

ing replacement, that philosophy shows.

The  pivot  assemblies  on  the  Mojo  Carbon  are  designed  to  easily  removed  and  re-

placed. We send you new pivots before you take your old ones out, so there is almost 

no downtime for the maintenance. No bearings to press out or axles hammer. A couple 

of hex keys and a little twisting and the whole assembly is ready for replacement.

New upper and lower pivot assemblies are available in the »buy« section of our web-

site, or you can have your dealer order them from Ibis for you. Replacement is super 

simple requiring no special tools:

We recommend you use a piece innertube about 3 cm long, feeding the rear 

brake and derailleur cables through it just behind the seat tube as shown.

Be prepared to support the swing arm once it is removed from the front end of the 

bike.

Note:  We  recommend  removing  the  shock  completely  when  working  on  the  links, 

the additional swing arm movement that is possible with the shock removed greatly 

facilitates working on the suspension bits. As mentioned, it’s best to remove the front 

derailleur too. We suggest taking the civilized route outlined below.

2 x 4 mm Allen wre

nches

2 x 6 mm Allen wrenches

2 x 5 mm Allen wrenches

small hammer

loctite blue thread locker

tunes &/or refreshments (why suffer?)