Jandy -Low NOx Installation And Operation Manual - page 42
Page 40
10.5.3.1 Transformer
Attach the black lead of the voltmeter to the
terminal on the secondary side of transformer with a
yellow wire attached to it (common). This is test point
1 on Figure 39. Touch the free lead of the voltmeter to
the terminal on the secondary side of transformer with
a red wire attached to it (24V tap), test point 2. The
voltmeter should read between 20-28 Volts. Leave the
black lead of the meter on the common tap (test point
1), and move the free lead of the voltmeter to the
terminal on the secondary side of transformer with a
white wire with yellow tracer attached to it (12V tap),
test point 3. The meter should read 10-14 Volts. If the
voltage at either of the test points does not fall within
the limits mentioned above replace the transformer.
10.5.3.2 Fuse
Leave the black voltmeter lead in place at test
point 1. Touch the free lead of the voltmeter to test
point 4, which is on the back of the controller where
the red wire from the transformer enters the end of
the connector. You will need to push the voltmeter
lead into the back of the connector along side of the
wire pin. The meter should read 20-28 Volts. If there
is no voltage, the fuse has failed. Inspect the rest of
the wiring, especially the safety circuit, to be sure that
there is no “short” such as contact of a terminal with
the heater chassis or another terminal which may have
caused the fuse to fail. Correct any such condition and
replace the fuse. Use only a 2 amp, 1 1/4" long x 1/4"
diameter, quick acting, glass tube type fuse. A 4 amp
fuse is used when an EZ Switch Kit is installed.
10.5.3.3 Water Pressure Switch/External
Interlocks or Fireman Switch
Circuit
Start by checking the voltage at the two legs of
this circuit at the back of the controller, (see test points
5 and 6 in Figure 39). Leaving the black lead of the
meter on test point 1, check the voltage at test point 5,
where the black wire from the pressure switch enters
the ten-pin connector on the back of the controller. If
there is not 20-28 Volts at this point, either the control-
ler or the ten-pin wire harness is faulty and must be
replaced. If 20-28 Volts is detected at test point 5,
then move the red lead of the meter to test point 6
where the white wire from the fireman switch terminal
block enters the ten-pin connector. If 20-28 Volts is
detected at this point, the devices in this circuit are
closed and the circuit is working properly.
If there is no voltage, either the pressure switch
contacts or the contacts of the external switch (fire-
man switch) are open. To determine which device is
causing the fault, move the red lead of the meter to the
contact on the water pressure switch where the black
wire is connected, (test point 7). Voltage to this point
means that the wire harness between the controller
and the water pressure switch is good. If there is no
voltage at test point 7, look for a loose connection or
replace the ten-pin wire harness. If there is voltage at
test point 7 then move the lead from test point 7 to the
contact on the other side of the water pressure switch
(test point 8). No voltage here means that the pressure
switch contacts are open. This is almost always due to
a water flow deficiency, the most common one being a
blocked water filter or defective pump. However,
sometimes it is due to blockage of the copper siphon
loop tube or mis-adjustment of the switch. Investigate
thoroughly, referring to Section 7.5 on “Adjustment of
Pressure Switch”. If there is no problem with the pool
system or pressure switch adjustment, replace the
pressure switch.
If test point 8 shows 20-28 Volts, check the
voltage going to the external device. Move the lead of
the meter to the lower right terminal screw on the
fireman switch terminal block (test point 9). No
voltage means that there is a bad connection in the
wire between the water pressure switch and the
terminal block. If 20-28 Volts is shown here, it ensures
that the correct voltage is being supplied to the exter-
nal switch. Now move the lead to the upper right
terminal screw on the terminal block (test point 10).
No voltage here means that the external device is not
working properly. The time clock switch or other
external interlock may be mis-adjusted, mis-connected
or defective. Correct this external problem. If there is
20-28 Volts at test point 10 then there is a bad connec-
tion between the terminal block and the controller.
Replace the ten-pin connector wire harness.
10.5.3.4 Temperature Limit Switches
Circuit.
Since the limit switches are not easily accessible,
you can check the voltage between test point 1 and the
two legs of the circuit at the controller (see test points
11 and 12 in Figure 39).
Leaving the black lead of the meter on test point
1, check the voltage at test point 11, where the white
wire from the 150° limit switch enters the ten-pin
connector on the back of the controller. If there is not
20-28 Volts at this point, either the controller or the
ten-pin wire harness is faulty and must be replaced. If
20-28 Volts is detected at this point, then move the red
lead of the meter to test point 12 where the white wire
from the 135° limit enters the ten-pin connector. If 20-
28 Volts is detected at this point, the devices in this
circuit are closed and the circuit is working properly.
If there is no voltage, one of the limit switches is
open. This is normally due to excessive water tem-
perature, which should be thoroughly investigated
before replacement of limit switches. Excessive water
temperature may be caused by low water flow. Water
flow deficiency may be due to obvious problems such
as a defective pump or blocked water filter. Alterna-
tively, excessive water temperature may be due to