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  4. 26 M 2009
  5. Owner's Instructions Manual

MACGREGOR 26 M 2009 Owner's Instructions Manual

Summary of 26 M 2009

  • Page 1

    Page 1 owner’s instructions macgregor 26 m page 1 special safety warnings 4 general information 4 recommended equipment 4 rigging the mast 6 preparing for trailering 7 preparing the trailer 8 towing the boat and trailer 8 attaching the mast support wires 8 raising the mast 9 optional mast raising sy...

  • Page 2

    Providing sideways stability. With the crew weight forward, the nose is depressed. The deep v nose shape does not contribute much to stability. When excess weight is at the front of the boat, the less stable nose area is carrying more of the weight of the boat and crew, the boat becomes far more eas...

  • Page 3

    Is metal, including the mast, shrouds, boom, lifelines, rudder, tiller or metal hardware. If possible, don’t touch anything that is wet. Many experts recommend that a heavy gauge copper wire be securely fastened to one of the shrouds and allowed to hang in the water to carry off the electricity from...

  • Page 4

    Motion of the boat or the wind causes the seat to fall into the low- ered position, someone could be hurt. Make sure the seat is secured in the open position, with the snap cable to the lifeline, every time it is opened. Avoid engine exhaust fumes. Engines emit car- bon monoxide, which can be fatal....

  • Page 5

    Lower shrouds. The lower shrouds are installed on the lower mast brackets ( 12’ from the base of the mast) with a 3/8” screw pin shackle, in the same manner as the upper shrouds (except that there is no forestay between them. (the following photo shows how it all looks when completed.) use safety wi...

  • Page 6

    Shackle to the back end of the halyard. Main halyard with shackle jib halyard (jib hoisting line). The line that hoists the forward sail (jib) passes through the pulley near the top of the forestay and ties off to the cleat on the left (port) side of the mast. Tie a twist pin u shackle (with a bowli...

  • Page 7

    And people unless the rear of the trailer is blocked up. The weight could cause the trailer and boat to tip backwards. Make sure the outboard motor is secured in the up position for trailering. Make sure the rudders are tied securely and pinned in the full up position. Use 1/4 x 2 1/4” bolts and loc...

  • Page 8

    State agency to determine whether or not trailer brakes are required in your area. If your trailer is equipped with brakes, read the following careful- ly to make sure you understand their operation. When you apply your car brakes, the trailer will try to push for- ward against the car. This push co...

  • Page 9

    Lifting the mast. Make sure all mast support wires except the forestay are connected to the mast and boat. Make sure that the mast wires are not entangled on the boat or trailer, and then raise the mast (below). This is best accomplished by standing on the cabin top, aft of the mast, and lifting the...

  • Page 10

    The following photo shows how the pulley and forward line look in their position at the top end of the pole. Make sure the forward line has a good bowline knot securing it to the eye on the pole. Pulley and forward line at top end of pole side support wires and winch line - attach- ment to mast. Aft...

  • Page 11

    Forestay connection don’t release tension on the mast raising line until the forestay is secure and the clevis pin and cotter ring are in place. Tighten down on the turnbuckle so the rig is really snug. Then secure the turnbuckle barrel with its cotter pins. Make sure the cotter pins are spread to t...

  • Page 12

    Forward of a straight line drawn from the top of the mast to the base of the mast. The downwind wires will be somewhat slack when sailing hard. When sailing into the wind, the mainsail takes over the task of supporting the mast from the rear. Secure all cotter pins and rings. Make sure all the cotte...

  • Page 13

    Rubber portion of the plug will become fatter or skinnier as the rubber is rotated. Adjust it so that it must be forced into the hole. Then, when the lever is pressed to the horizontal position, it will really grip the hole and stay put. Close the transom gate valve by pushing down on the handle. Ma...

  • Page 14

    The upper end of the mainsheet is attached to the boom as shown below. Mainsheet attached to boom the mainsheet threads its way through the pulleys as shown in the following drawing. Mainsheet mainsail. Feed the lower rear corner of the mainsail into the open slot in the front end of the boom and pu...

  • Page 15

    Wrap the loose end of the line around the cleat just once and then pass it through the loop that you made above the cleat. Trucker’s hitch, complete when you pull down on the loose end, you will get a 2 to 1 power advantage. (for every pound of pull you put on the loose end, you will get a 2 pound p...

  • Page 16

    There should be no scallops or sagging between the clips on the jib sail. A loose leading edge is a very common error and hurts the boat’s windward performance. Genoa (option) the genoa is similar to the jib, except that it is longer along the base. It adds a lot of power and is particularly effecti...

  • Page 17

    Rudders. There are cleats near the lines to secure the rudders either in the up or down positions. When you are steering with the rud- ders, make sure they are fully down and well secured. If the rud- der blades angle back, the rudder area moves aft of the pivot point, and the loads on the steering ...

  • Page 18

    Following drawing. Boom vang self-righting capability with sails rigged to the mast and boom, the water ballast tank full, and the masthead pulled to the level of the water, the boat, when released, should return to an upright position. With virtually any sailboat, it is possible for the belly of th...

  • Page 19

    Bar together should be loose enough to allow the bar to pivot as the engine is raised up and down. When powering, the engine should be connected to the rudders with the linkage bar. With the engine linked to the rudders, the rudders will still turn when the engine is turned, but the blades. When rai...

  • Page 20

    Exterior finish. The fiberglass finish should be protected in the same manner as an automobile finish. An occasional pol- ishing and waxing (with any good quality automotive polish and wax) will keep the surface in excellent condition. If the boat is left in the water (either fresh or salt water), a...

  • Page 21

    Macgregor yacht corp. And macgregor does not authorize the dealer or any other person to assume for macgregor yacht corp. Any liability in connection with such warranty or any liability or expense incurred in the replacement or repair of its products other than those expressly authorized herein. Mac...

  • Page 22: How To Sail

    The most important thing you must know is the direction from which the wind is blow- ing. Program someone to ask you, every 2 minutes “where is the wind coming from?” you must point to it instantly, and be right. Put a windex wind vane at the top of the mast, and keep your eye on it. If you don’t kn...

  • Page 23

    Wind, except that the sails are pulled in closer to the centerline of the boat, and you are now trying to sail as close into the wind as you can. This is tougher to do, and the boat won’t go as fast as when sailing across the wind. The following drawing shows the boat sailing toward the wind. This i...

  • Page 24

    When sailing at right angles to the wind (called “reaching”), pull in the mainsail control line (mainsheet) and the jib control line (jibsheet) until the wind completely fills the sails. If the sails are not pulled in far enough, the fabric near the lead- ing edge will flutter and ripple. This is th...

  • Page 25

    When sailing across the wind or into the wind, try to sail a con- stant leaning (heeling) angle. If it leans too much, sail into the direction from which the wind is blowing (called “heading up”), relieving some pressure on the sails. If the boat starts to stand up straighter, steer away from the wi...

  • Page 26

    These lines just tight enough to keep the rear edge of the sail from fluttering. If you get the lines too tight, the rear edge of the sail will cup toward the wind and slow the boat up a small amount. The time to reduce sail area is when you first think that it might be necessary. Even with less sai...

  • Page 27

    Page 27 the following is a reproduction of the decals that are placed on the steering pedestal and on the cabin wall inside the boat. These the decals contain important safety information, and should not be removed. If the decals become defaced or illegible, please call or write to us and we will pr...

  • Page 28

    Page 28.