Nacra F16 Assembly & Rigging Manual

Other manuals for F16: Owner's Manual, Assembly Manual

Summary of F16

  • Page 2

    2 table of content introduction ____________________________________________________________________________________________ 5 1. Part 1. Assembly ________________________________________________________________________________________ 6 1.1. Tools needed for assembly _______________________________...

  • Page 3

    3 1.8.1. Spinnaker sheet ________________________________________________________________________________ 35 1.8.2. Spinnaker retrieve block _________________________________________________________________________ 35 1.8.3. Tack release line and tack line ___________________________________________...

  • Page 4

    4 2.3.8. Mainsail outhaul _______________________________________________________________________________ 65 3. Tuning guide __________________________________________________________________________________________ 66 3.1. Mast rake __________________________________________________________________...

  • Page 5

    5 introduction thank you for buying your new nacra f20 carbon! This manual covers everything you need to know about assembling your new nacra. Familiarize yourself with this complete manual to help ensure proper assemb- ly and maintenance. This is a two part manual. If you take your boat out of the ...

  • Page 6

    6 part 1. Assembly this part of the manual is only for people who get their boat ‘out of the box’ and have to assemble their boat completely. If your boat is already assembled by your dealer, you can continue with part 2. Rigging. 1.1. Tools needed for assembly you will need: sharp knife needle nose...

  • Page 7

    7 1.3. Hulls 1.3.1 mounting the beams step 1. Place the starboard and port hull box next to each other and make sure that the hulls are facing the same way. Step 2. Position the hulls approximately 3 m apart from each other. Be careful not to scratch the boat, so it is best to use hull supports and ...

  • Page 8

    8 step 5. After hand tightening the bolts, work your way around the boat and tighten all the beam bolts to about 24 nm on the torque wrench. Do not exceed the recommended 24 nm as over tightening results in damaged threads. 1.3.2 fixing the mast rotation cleats get the two mast rotation cleats from ...

  • Page 9

    9 1.3.4. Front beam pre-bend there should always be pre-bend on the front beam. This is done by tensio- ning the pin of the dolphin striker. After each session the first three ti- mes the boat is sailed the following procedure must be completed (with the mast taken off!): step 1. Unscrew the nuts ab...

  • Page 10

    10 1.4. Trampoline 1.4.1. Fitting the trampoline step 1. Slide the front edge of the trampoline into the slot in the front beam. The foot straps should be facing up. Make sure the trampoline is in the middle of the catamaran. Step 2. Insert the carbon tie rod into the slot in the rear of the trampol...

  • Page 11

    11 step 4. Tighten the rear lacing line firmly and then tie it down at the end. Step 3 step 4 step 4.

  • Page 12

    12 step 5. Take one of the side lacing lines and tie it down onto the first trampoline spanner band. That is the one closest to the front beam on either side of the boat. We take the other end of the lacing line and take it around the first button on the hull. We then go back through the trampoline ...

  • Page 13

    13 1.4.2. Fixing the foot strap step 1. Tie the middle foot strap into place firmly 1.4.3. Trapeze shockcord step 1. The trapeze shock cords for the crew are already put in the front beam and need no attention. Take the two aft trapeze shock cords for the helm out of the box. Step 2. Put the aft tra...

  • Page 14

    14 1.4.4. Spinnaker block take a block from the box and tie it onto the trampoline using a small rope. Make sure you do two loops! Look at the picture for the location. Spinnaker block make sure to do two loops and tighten it firmly!.

  • Page 15

    15 1.5. Spinnaker pole 1.5.1. Fixing the snuffer ring and shute step 1. Slide the spinnaker shute through the snuffer ring. Step 2. Place the spinnaker pole horizontal. This means that all of the already moun- ted fittings and blocks are on top and standing vertical. Step 3. Take the tape measure an...

  • Page 16

    16 1.6. Mast masts should be regularly inspected for water tightness and diamond wire wear. Make sure fittings are sealed with silicone. Replace wires that show any signs of wear. Check diamond wire attachment points, turn buckles and seizing wire. These areas could cause serious mast failure! 1.6.1...

  • Page 17

    17 step 3. Turn the second diamond wire in the brass diamond adjuster block. This will be slightly more difficult than the first diamond wire, since the other diamond wire is already fixed. To make things easier let one person turn the diamond wire at the end and let the other person turn the diamon...

  • Page 18

    18 step 5. Grease the diamond adjuster bolt, place the washer and put the bolt through the mast base. Then turn it in the brass diamond block, but only get the th- read started. We don’t want to put tension on the diamond wires, since we still have to attach them in the top. Step 6. Push the mast ba...

  • Page 19

    19 step 2. Place the diamond wire onto the diamond wire connector and attach it with a clevis pin and ring. The ring should be on the outside. Don’t forget to tape the ring! Step 3. Put some wear tape under the diamond wire connector. Then bend the dia- mond wire connector to the mast again. 1.6.3. ...

  • Page 20

    20 step 3. Measure the distance from the beginning of the spreader bar adjuster screw to the beginning of the spreader bar. This distance should be 59 mm on both spreaders for now. This is a very powerful trim option on the boat and regu- lates the spreader rake. The amount of required spreader rake...

  • Page 21

    21 step 6. Slide the diamond wires into the corresponding slots at the end of the sprea- ders. Make sure the diamond wire is completely in the slot! Step 7. Secure the diamond wire onto the spreader with the thin wire. Do this by twisting both thin wire ends around each side of the diamond wire. The...

  • Page 22

    22 step 9. Put tension on the diamond wires by screwing in the mast bolt. Measure the tension on the diamond wires with the loose gauge. This value should be about 38. More tension means more pre-bend in the mast and that means less pressure in your sails. For now, put the tension on 38 (125kg/280lb...

  • Page 23

    23 1.6.5. Spinnaker block step 1. Take the spinnaker bale line and a block. Slide the spinnaker bale line in one of the pre-drilled spinnaker bale line holes and let it come out in the hole on the other side. Tie a figure 8 knot to prevent it from sliding back again. Step 2. Take the other end of th...

  • Page 24

    24 step 4. Take the spinnaker block line and tie it to the top of the block. Tie the other end to the eyelet in the top of the mast. Make sure this line is tight when the spinnaker halyard block is pulled down. Test this by pulling the block down. Step 5. Take some wear tape and place it underneath ...

  • Page 25

    25 step 3. Tie a figure 8 knot at the bottom of the mast and tie the other end of the halyard to the eyelet on the metal halyard locking ring. Do this with a figure 8 knot. Tie everything to the mast. Step 3 step 3.

  • Page 26

    26 1.6.7. Fixing the stays step 1. Take the big shackle, the forestay, two side stays and plastic washers from the box. Step 2. Place the forestay in the shackle and make sure the part of the fore stay with the ring is on the bottom. Step 3. Place the two side stays next to both sides of the foresta...

  • Page 27

    27 step 3. Tie one end of the jib halyard to the top of the jib halyard s-hook. Put the other end through the pre drilled hole in the s-hook and tie a 8 knot. 1.6.9. Adjustable trapeze units step 1. Take all of the parts from the box. Step 2. Take the trapeze line from the trapeze hook through the t...

  • Page 28

    28 step 3. Put the adjustable trapeze line through the clam-cleat and trapeze block in the way shown on the pictures. Mount a shackle on top of the clam cleat. Step 4. Repeat this for all 4 adjustable trapeze units. 1.6.10. Fixing the trapeze wires step 1. Take the other shackle, two trapeze wires, ...

  • Page 29

    29 step 3. Attach the adjustable trapeze units to the bottom of the trapeze wires. Tigh- ten all the shackles firmly and put tape around them. 1.6.11. Cleats step 1. Attach the two cunningham cleats on the mast. Step 2. Attach the spinnaker cleat on the mast. Step 3 cleats step 1 and 2 cunningham (2...

  • Page 30

    30 1.6.12. Cunningham step 1. Put the cunningham line through the double pulleys and the mast base as shown on the picture. Make sure the lines don’t cross. In the end you should have two ends on both sides of the mast coming out of the cunningham cleats. Step 2. Take the short cunningham line and t...

  • Page 31

    31 1.7. Rudders step 1. Put your boat on high supports or the trailer, because we are going to put the rudders on the boat. They should also be able to lock down. Then slide your rudders on the rudder pins on the stern. The bent rudder arms should be facing inboard. Step 2. Measure the rudder rake, ...

  • Page 32

    32 step 5. Unscrew the two phillips screws on both ends of the crossbar and place the crossbar over the two rubber rods on the tiller arms. Make sure the hardwa- re for the joystick is on top. Don’t put the phillips screws in yet, because we need to align the rudders! Step 6. Lock the rudders in the...

  • Page 33

    33 step 7 measure the distance between the port and starboard leading and trailing edges of the rudder blades. The trailing edge should be 2 mm more out than the leading edge. Move the rudders in or out to attain the right measure- ment. Step 6 locking the rudders part 2 the rudder is now locked. St...

  • Page 34

    34 step 8. When the rudder alignment is correct, predrill holes into the rubber rods and install the phillips screws into the rubber rod to lock the position. Make sure the length of the rubber rods on both ends are about equal. Step 9 at last you can adjust the sliding bolt to adjust kick up tensio...

  • Page 35

    35 1.8. Ropes and halyards 1.8.1. Spinnaker sheet step 1. Take two blocks and the spinnaker sheet blocks. Install the two blocks on the front beam and install the spinnaker sheet blocks on the hulls. Connect the two blocks with the short shock cord supplied. Step 2. Take one end of the spinnaker she...

  • Page 36

    36 step 2. Put both ends of the shockcord through the holes on each rear side of the trampoline. Make sure you go under the foot strap! On the starboard side you also have the tack line shock cord running through the hole in the tram- poline. Tie the shockcord down to the trapoline lacing lines. 1.8...

  • Page 37

    37 step 4. Tie a block to the stay adjuster/staymaster with the red trampoline block tie line. And take the tack line through the block. Step 5. Go under the trampoline with the tack line, going through the slot between the trampoline lacing line and the trampoline next to the mast rotation cleat. S...

  • Page 38

    38 step 3. Take the thin jib sheet from the box and tie one end to the block on the jib track. Also connect a shackle to a block and put the thin jib sheet through this block. Step 4. Go through the pulley on the jib track with the thin jib sheet. Step 5. Put the rest of the jib sheet in the bag in ...

  • Page 39

    39 step 2. Go under the trampoline with the rotator line, by going through rotation block and then through the slot between the trampoline and the lacing line. Step 3. Go through the big hole in the middle of the trampoline and put the rest of the line in the trampoline bag. We will do the rest when...

  • Page 40

    40 step 2. Take the other end through the hole in the trampoline and tie a figure 8 knot directly above the hole, to prevent the righting line from accidentally sliding through the hole while sailing. Step 3. Put the rest of the line in the trampoline bag. 1.8.7. Mainsheet take the mainsheet and the...

  • Page 41

    41 mainsheet mainsheet mainsheet mainsheet.

  • Page 42

    42 1.8.8. Mainsail traveler step 1. The main sheet and the traveler on the nacra f20 carbon are made out of one single rope. Take the loose end of the main sheet and put it through the cleat and the blocks on the traveler cart. Step 2. Tie either of the twin ends to one of the eyelets on the rear be...

  • Page 43

    43 part 2. Rigging the manual now continues with the boat as we left it in part 1, so if you don’t exactly know how everything was supposed to be just check it in part 1! 2.1. Raising the mast 2.1.1. Preparing step 1. Take the two bridle wires, the connection rod for the spinaker pole and the fore s...

  • Page 44

    44 2.1.2. Fixing the stays and trapeze wires step 1. Attach the bottom of the sidestays to the staymaster. Make sure the stay- master is at its maximum length, that is number 10. Step 2. Attach the adjustable trapeze unit to the trapeze shockcords. The trapeze wire which is most on front of the mast...

  • Page 45

    45 2.1.3. Spinnaker halyard step 1. Take the spinnaker halyard and go to the mastbase. Take the thin end of the halyard and go through the spinnaker hoist block. Step 2. Go through the gap in the right rake adjuster bars with that same end. Go through the slot at the starboard side of the mast! Step...

  • Page 46

    46 step 4. Take the end of the halyard through the block in the top of the mast from the inside to the outside of the mast. Step 5. Take this end down again and tie it to the spinnaker halyard block. With the other end you can tighten the line, cleat it in the spinnaker hoist block and then put the ...

  • Page 47

    47 step 3. Check that all the stays and trapeze wires are free of obstructions. Also check that the jib halyard is free. The person at the mast base takes a trape- ze wire to help the person at the back with raising the mast. It is best to put your foot on the mast base to prevent it from coming off...

  • Page 48

    48 step 6. When the mast is in upright position one person pulls on the trapeze wire to keep the mast up. The other person fits the forestay in the forestay adjuster with a clevis pin. When you do this for the first time, fit the clevis pin in one of the holes. We have to check the mast rake now. Ch...

  • Page 49

    49 2.1.5. Lowering the mast step 1. Lowering the mast the first time it is best to be with three persons. We will tell you how to do it with two people. Make sure the mast is on level ground or if that’s not possible make sure the bow is downhill to make it easier to lower the mast. Step 2. Make sur...

  • Page 50

    50 step 5. When the mast is lowered, make sure the mast is properly supported to pre- vent it from scratching your boat or beams. 2.2. Rigging the boat 2.2.1. Spinnaker pole step 1. Take the spinnaker pole and put it through the middle spi pole bridles that are attached to both hulls. Then put it on...

  • Page 51

    51 step 2. Attach the spinnaker connector rod hanging under the forestay to the con- nection point near the middle spinnaker bridle wires. Make sure to tape the ring! Step 3. Connect the two spinnaker pole bridle wires on the front end of the spi pole to the hulls with two clevis pins. Don’t forget ...

  • Page 52

    52 2.2.2. Jib sheet step 1. We previously put the end of the jib sheet in the trampoline bag and already tied the other end down to a pulley on the jib track. Take the end from the trampoline bag and put it through the pulley on the spinnaker pole. Step 2. Tie the jib sheet down to the pulley attach...

  • Page 53

    53 2.2.3. Tack line we previously put the end of the tack line in the trampoline bag. Take this end through the pulley on the end of the spinnaker pole. Be sure to go under the bridle wires. 2.2.4. Jib traveler. One end of the jib traveler should already be attached to the jib track. Take the other ...

  • Page 54

    54 step 2. Pull on the blue line that comes out of the front beam and you will find that is tied onto a shockcord. Tie the cunningham line to that shockcord and then untie the blue line. The cunningham line can now go into the front beam while sailing! 2.2.6. Boom take the boom and connect it to the...

  • Page 55

    55 step 3. Go through the mast rotation cleat again and tie it down to the staymaster. 2.2.8. Spinnaker halyard step 1. The spinnaker halyard has already been put through the pulley in the top of the mast so we have the two ends at the mast base. Step 2. Take the end which goes through the spinnaker...

  • Page 56

    56 step 5. Take the halyard through the spinnaker shute and then go through the snuf- fer ring. Tie the end down to the spinnaker pole. Tie the other end to the spinnaker pole. Step 6. Take the spinnaker shute and attach the two shockcords to the trampoline. Step 5 step 5 step 6.

  • Page 57

    57 2.3. Fixing the sails 2.3.1. Spinnaker step 1. Take the tack of the spinnaker and tie the tack line to the ring as shown on the picture. It is best to fix the spinnaker on the port side of the boat. Step 2. Follow the leading edge of the spinnaker, then take the head of the spinna- ker and tie th...

  • Page 58

    58 step 3. Take the other end of the spinnaker halyard and put it through the two rings in the spinnaker. Then tie it down to the top path as shown on the picture. Step 4. Follow the trailing edge of the spinnaker, take the clew of the spinnaker and then tie the spinnaker sheet down to it as shown o...

  • Page 59

    59 step 4. Hoist the jib and close the zipper at the same time. When you are nearly the- re look up to the jib halyard ring and hoist the s-hook through the ring and a bit further. Then pull the jib down a bit to lock it in the ring. The s-hook has now locked the jib. Step 5. Put the rest of the hal...

  • Page 60

    60 step 7. Take the pulley with the shackle near the jib track and attach it to the clew plate. 2.3.3. Lowering the jib step 1. Undo the jib sheet and the jib cunningham. Step 2. Unzip the jib a little and pull on the halyard to raise the jib a bit. Then hold the jib in position with one hand and pu...

  • Page 61

    61 2.3.4. Mainsail battens step 1. We are first going to put tension on all the battens, starting at the bottom. Take the two batten tension lines from the sail and put them through the hole on the end of the batten. Step 2. Then go through the hole on the other side of the sail and tie a knot as sh...

  • Page 62

    62 2.3.5. Raising the mainsail step 1. Take the mainsail halyard and fix the shackle to the top of the mainsail. Ma- ke sure the knot in the mainsail halyard ring is facing the mast. Step 2. Put the sail in the sail track in the mast and pull on the halyard at the same time. This is best to do with ...

  • Page 63

    63 step 4. Put the tack of the mainsail in the mast rail. 2.3.6. Lowering the mainsail step 1. Take the halyard out of the trampoline bag and take the cunningham off the sail. Also take the tack out of the mast rail. It is best to be with to people again: one person at the mast and the other behind ...

  • Page 64

    64 step 2. The person with the halyard pulls on the halyard to raise the sail a bit and holds the halyard tight. This will put the ring above the locking system. Step 3. The person at the mast then twists the mast at right angle with the sail and pulls the sail down. Twisting the mast like this will...

  • Page 65

    65 2.3.7. Mainsail cunningham take the end of the short cunningham line and take it through the pulley on that side of the sail. Then take it through the clamcleat on the bottom of the mast. 2.3.8. Mainsail outhaul take the outhaul line and tie a 8-knot on one end. Take the other end through the hol...

  • Page 66

    66 3. Tuning guide 3.1. Mast rake the basic setting is the upper screw of the rudder spring on the transom. To measure, do this: step 1. Untie the shock cord of one of the trapeze wires and extend the trapeze wire with a piece of rope of about 1 meter. Also make sure the side stays are on normal ten...

  • Page 67

    67 3.3. Diamond tension to measure the tension of the diamond wires we use a loose & co tension gauge which you put onto the wire and let go. This one gives you the most accurate readings. The number that we work with, on this tension meter is: 38. 3.4. Side stay tension it is not necessary to measu...

  • Page 68

    68 4. Maintenance rinse entire boat with fresh water after each use. Be sure to flush all blocks and fittings thoroughly. Check the sails and trampoline for rips, tears, or loose stitching. Repair immediately to avoid further damage. Always keep trampoline lacing tight. Check mast ball for wear- rep...

  • Page 69

    69 5. Warranty for a full explanation of the terms of our warranty please read the warranty document available in the download section of our website at www.Nacrasailing.Com 6. Dealer support nacra’s dealer network is famous for its service. The dealer can help you with anything you need for your na...