Triple S Customs Car Security Installation manual - page 36
CAR ALARM AND REMOTE START INSTALLATION GUIDE
Copyrght 2002-2004 Triple S Customs
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Take time to test each wire to verify that it is the correct wire. Use a quality digital multi-meter. A digital multi-
meter is a multi-purpose instrument that combines the features of an ammeter, voltmeter, and ohmmeter into
one tool. Never use an analog volt-ohm meter or incandescent test light to test circuits. In today’s computer
equipped vehicles, the current draw that a volt-ohm meter or test light requires can permanently damage
delicate vehicle computers. Always use a digital multi-meter to test circuits. Wire colors and sometimes wire
polarities can vary from vehicle to vehicle. Also, take a note of how the vehicle’s factory wires are wrapped.
Are they wrapped in vinyl tape? Are they covered in split-loom? Are they covered in cloth tape? Wires should
be carefully wrapped to match the vehicle's wiring. This will make the system “blend in” with the factory
wiring, giving it a factory-installed appearance.
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Study the vehicle and find places to mount components such as the control unit, relays, and sensors. Make
sure components won’t be in the way of any moving parts. Make sure you can reassemble the vehicle without
the alarm/remote start system’s components being in the way. Nothing is worse than completing the
installation and finding a panel won’t fit back on because a relay or the control unit is in the way. Look under
the hood to find a spot to mount the siren. Many engine bays are very cramped. Take time to plan how you
will run your wires through the engine bay.
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Most installers prefer to screw down or use double-sided tape to secure the system’s control module on a
counter top or work bench to prep the system’s wiring. Some installers chose to wrap the system’s wires
individually. However, many systems can have over 50 wires. In this case many installers will wrap wires that
must go to a similar location together. For example, twist together wires that must go to a similar location like
the driver’s kick panel, the ignition harness, the passenger kick panel, the headlight switch, under the hood, or
to any other location that you are routing wires to. Wrap the wires in tape or split loom to camouflage the
wires and make them look like factory wiring. Cap off wires that will not be connected to prevent any shorts.
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Connections should only be made by crimp connectors or solder connections. When properly performed, both
connections are reliable and trouble free.
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It is recommended that a Klein-style crimp tool be used for solderless crimp-on connectors instead of a cheap
hardware store crimping tool. When making crimp connections, the seam of the metal barrel in the solderless
crimp-on connector should be in the concave part of the crimp tool’s jaws.
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When soldering, solder should be applied so it flows over the connections. For best results, the tip of the
soldering iron should be held below the wire while applying the solder from above. This allows the solder to
flow from the top of the wire to the bottom more uniformly. Two or three balls of solder is not good enough
because it may contain air bubbles and either brake off over time or have little electrical connection value. A
good solder joint should be smooth and shiny. Once the soldering is completed, let the solder joint stand until
cool. Tape and seal the solder joint after the solder joint has cooled.
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When soldering, use a drop cloth to prevent solder drips and burns on the vehicle's carpeting. Also a drop
cloth makes clean up easier when installation is completed.
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Make certain that wires cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point.
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Use good-quality electrical tape; such as 3M, or heat shrink tubing
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Never twist-and-tape wires together without soldering. Never use “wire nuts.” Wire nuts are designed for a
stationary, stable environment. The vibration of being on the road could cause a wire nut to eventually fall off
the wire leaving the exposed wiring to short to ground, possibly causing severe electrical damage.
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Never use "fuse taps".
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Avoid using T-taps, especially in high current connections. Many installers get in the habit of using T-taps
because they are quick and easy to use. However, over time they can come loose. Also they are not meant to
be used in high-current connections such as the outputs from a remote start system to the vehicles ignition,
accessory, and starter wires.
HOW TO TEST THE VEHICLE’S WIRING
WARNING! Do not use a 12V test light to locate or test any wires! A test light may cause serious
damage to vehicle electronics. Only use a digital multi-meter to test circuits.
TESTING THE TACHOMETER WIRE:
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A multi-meter capable of testing AC voltage is needed to test for the tachometer wire.
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The tachometer wire will meter between 1V and 6V AC.
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Common locations for the tachometer are the ignition coil, instrument cluster, engine computers, or test
connector.