U.S. Brig Niagara Instruction Manual - page 8
8
Painting And Staining The Model
Beginning with directions on applying
finishes may seem strange, but it isn't.
Much time and effort can be saved and
more professional results obtained if the
finishing process is carried out during
construction. Paint small parts, masts,
and spars before they are installed on
the model. The painting sequence must
be well thought out; otherwise, assem-
bly difficulties can arise. For example,
painting a cabin or hatch coaming is
easier if it isn't glued to the deck. Store
parts in covered containers until they
are ready to be installed. Proper timing
when applying finishes or using mask-
ing tape to define painted edges should
eliminate unsightly glue marks and
splotchy, stained surfaces. Take advan-
tage of these general suggestions:
1. Preliminaries
Sanding and Cleaning
: Rub down external
surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper, then
wipe off every speck of dust. Give
untreated surfaces two light coats of
primer. Sand very lightly after the last
application. Don't sand down to bare
wood. After washing your hands, gen-
tly dust the hull with a soft brush and
clean, soft rag or tack rag. Use a hobby
spackling compound, such as Pic-n-Patch
or DAP, to fill any scratches and defects,
then sand and prime again.
Choosing paint
: Glossy surfaces are not
desirable on ship models. A flat finish or
one with a slight sheen is best, because it
doesn't reflect daylight or artificial lights.
Consequently, details show up better.
However, the undercoat or primer
should be dead flat. A primer gives the
surface a little tooth and helps top coats
adhere better.
Any of these hobby paints are satisfac-
tory; Floquil lacquers or Polly-S and
Polly Scale acrylics, Tamiya, Testor's
Model Master, and Humbrol. Jo Sonja
artists' paints (used by bird carvers) or
Holbein Acryla Gouache are also accept-
able. Unlike pure acrylics, which have a
little sheen, the gouache in these paints
make them flat.
Hobby paints have a variety of reflectance
levels. For example, Floquil’s model rail-
road and military colors are basically flat.
Its marine paints, designed to match orig-
inal ship colors, vary from gloss to flat
and have a reflectance reducer. When
using a mixed group of reflectance levels,
finish the completed model with a flat,
clear coat. It provides durability and seals
any decals or rub-on lettering.
Floquil's reducer works in an unusual way.
Spraying on a single coat blends colors and
subdues a gloss to almost flat. Because of
resins in the reducer, subsequent appli-
cations raise the reflectance level from
flat to about semi-gloss or satin finish.
Consequently, for nearly dead flat, use one
coat of reducer. For a little more sheen, apply
several coats. If you start with flat paint and
want some gloss, finish with a crystal or
high gloss coat.
Jo Sonja paints are dead flat. To finish,
use either a flat acrylic varnish for dura-
bility or a gloss varnish to increase
reflectance. Other manufacturers have
similar paint mixes and flat or gloss
finish coats. Always read the manufac-
turer's instructions.
Brush painting
: Painting with fine, soft
bristle brushes is probably best for the
beginner. Many skilled modelmakers
prefer the brushed-on technique,
because its subtle imperfections impart
a more lifelike appearance to the model.
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