Connoisseur Models GWR HYDRA Diagram G19 Instruction Booklet - page 7
Place the floor face down on top of one block, with the buffer beam top fold line level with the edge
of the block. Place the second block on to the floor, again with its edge level with the fold line. Then
pressing down on to the wooden blocks with my thumbs, I pulled the buffer beam upwards with my
fingers to form a 90° fold. Any slight distortion can be corrected with gentle finger and thumb
pressure. The first fold for the well is made at the fifth plank joint from the ends. Again clamp the
floor between the wooden blocks. Then lay a steel rule with its edge level with the other side of the
plank line, on to the part of the floor that requires folding. Press down on the rule with your finger
ends to form the fold (use a side frame to determine the angle) the steel rule will help to transfer
your finger pressure evenly, to give a sharp fold at the plank line without rippling the adjacent
planks. The second fold for the bottom of the well is made in the same way but the fold line is on the
underside of the floor.
2.
Fold over and solder the axle box keeper plates on the sideframes, parts 2. Emboss the eight
bolt heads on the rivet detail overlay, part 3, and then fit to the side frames. The bolt heads are
designed to be embossed using a scriber, with the point rounded off slightly on an oilstone. Place
the part face down onto a block of softwood and press firmly down into the half etched hole. This
may slightly distort the overlay, so once all the bolt heads are embossed, gently correct this by
bending back with finger and thumb pressure.
I soldered the rivet detail overlay to the side frame by holding it in place with miniature crocodile
clips (make sure that the slots are aligned and clear). Then using plenty of flux and placing the iron
bit flat on to the edge of the two parts I ran a fillet of solder along the edge. You should find that the
flux pulls the solder down between the two parts laminating them together, work about 1” at a time
and work along the bottom edge first and then the top edge. Then dress the two edges with a flat file
and clean off any solder on the front face of the side frame with knife blade and fibre brush. Then fit
the spring stops, parts 4, into the slots in the side frame.
Fit the side frames to the floor, there are etched dotted lines on the floor and etched grooves in the
buffer beams to help with their positioning. I found that I had to slightly dress the ends of the side
frames with a flat file to get a snug fit at the buffer beam bottom lip. Tack solder only, the side
frames to the floor of the well. Now fit the wheels, there should be enough flexibility in the side
frames to enable you to spring the wheel sets with bearings fitted on the axle ends into place. Check
that the side frames are square to the floor and then solder solid by running a good fillet of solder
along the inside edge. Try to run 1” fillets of solder at any one time, working from the centre towards
each buffer beam. Alternate between each side frame to prevent the build up of heat that may cause
distortion. Keep checking as you go to ensure that the side frames are still square to the floor. The
wheel sets will be flopping about between the side frames and we will sort this out later.
Page 7
3. Fit the curb rails, parts 5. Dress off the tags on the bottom edge but leave the top edge
attached to the smaller components and fix down to a block of softwood with drawing pins. Then
solder the floor into the half etched groove on the curb rail. Cut through the tags with a sharp,
pointed scalpel blade to release the curb rail. It is easier to solder the large formed up floor squarely
on to the fixed thin strip of curb rail rather than trying to solder a separate curb rail onto the edge of
the floor. Solder between the inside of the curb rail and the plank ends of the floor. Use plenty of flux
and a small amount of solder and hopefully the solder will run along the joint without clogging up the
plank detail. Again work the joint about 1” at a time, from the centre outwards, to avoid a build up of
heat. Repeat for the other curb rail.
Check by eye that the body is not twisted (twist square if it is). Centre each wheel set by pressing
the ends of the bearings onto the axle ends with finger and thumb and then quickly spot solder the
bearings into the side frames. If you have wenches fingers that are unable to withstand a little heat,
you may cut two squares of card from the material that the kit was packed on and use these
between your finger ends and the bearings to prevent burning yourself (I included some packing
washers but found it easier not to use them). Place the wagon onto a flat surface and check that it
sits on all four wheels without rocking. If not, you can adjust the height of any wheel by re-soldering
its bearing as you apply gentle pressure with the end of a flat file.