Connoisseur Models LNER Class G5 0-4-4 Tank Manual - page 2
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Please read this section carefully especially if this is your first etched brass kit. Many modellers
fight shy of working in this medium but the basic skills are relatively easy to acquire. Once you’ve
learned how to form and solder brass you’ll find all kinds of modelling possibilities will open up for
you.
Assembling an etched kit involves exactly the same skills that a scratchbuilder uses – the only
difference is that the cutting out of the parts is already done for you. Some filing and trimming will be
necessary from time to time. Where this is the case I have highlighted it in the instructions.
The main skill to master is soldering and I would recommend a Weller 40 Watt soldering iron. This
has a 6mm diameter removable copper bit. The bit is shaped like a screwdriver and has a bright
coating of solder (tinned). This combination of iron and bit shape is ideal for running fillet joints and
has a good reserve of heat that is so necessary for soldering small parts onto large components.
Note the shape and condition of a new bit as this won’t last long and will need restoring back to this
condition.
It is important to keep the bit clean and in good condition as you work. Get a soldering iron stand
containing a damp sponge as old oxidized solder is wiped off on this before picking up fresh solder
for each joint. If you haven’t made a joint for some time you may find that a hard black crust has
formed on the bit. Remove this with a brass wire brush (suede brush) and then feed some multicore
solder onto each side of the bit to restore a bright surface (referred to as wetting or tinning the bit).
After about 8 hours use you will find the bit is in poor condition with holes and a ragged edge. File
the bit back to its original shape using a hand bastard file and then polish the surfaces on emery
cloth. Coat the bit with Fluxite Soldering Paste (traditionally used by plumbers) and this will prevent
the bare copper oxidizing as the iron heats up. Then feed multicore solder onto the bit to form a
generous coating and leave to bubble away for a couple of minutes before wiping the excess off to
give a bit almost as good as new.
A smaller Antex 25 Watt iron with a 3.2mm screwdriver bit is very useful for small assemblies and
detail work such as handrails, but will have insufficient heat reserve for main assembly work. The
Antex has a plated iron bit and after a little use with 145° solder a grey oxide appears on the bit that
will prevent you from picking up the solder. Touch the bit to some multicore solder and it will flash
over the bit wetting it so that you can continue picking up 145° solder. I have found no problems with
mixing the two solders in this way.
I use 145° solder for virtually all assembly work. I prefer it in wire form, available from many tool
merchants, but it is also produced in stick form by Carrs. I find that its lower working
temperature helps to give a quick clean joint and limits the build up of heat which may cause
distortion in components. I find that I can hold parts together with my finger ends and make a joint
before heat reaches my fingers or other etched parts drop off.
I use 60/40 tin/lead fluxed multicore electrical solder (melting point about 190°) mainly to keep the
iron bits in good condition. As it gives a slightly stronger joint than 145° I sometimes use it for small
spot joints on handrail wire, lamp brackets etc, but still use extra liquid flux.
For all brass and nickel silver work I use Carrs green label liquid flux. You will soon get the feel for
how much to use but more problems are caused by too little flux than too much.
Before soldering components together thoroughly clean both surfaces along the join line with a
glass fibre burnishing brush. Using your tweezers or a knife blade etc, hold the parts together in the
correct position and with an old paintbrush run some flux along the area to be joined. Still keeping
the parts correctly aligned, pick up a small quantity of solder on the tip of your iron and carry it to the
joint (unlike electrical soldering when you feed solder into the joint). Hold the iron against the joint
just long enough for the solder to flash between the parts. Don’t let go of the parts until the solder
has cooled – this takes from five to ten seconds. To run a fillet of solder along a joint, wait until the
solder flashes between the parts and then pull the molten solder along the joint with the iron tip.
Don’t load the iron tip with a lot of extra solder work the joint in 1” lengths bringing in small quantities
of solder.
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