EASY-BUILD DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU Assembly Instructions Manual - page 15
inside the opening in the casting. Mount all other step treads at the
same height (both units) at the positions marked on the solebars
previously (step 56.1). Use the 18mm steps for the passenger and
cab doors and the 30mm steps for the baggage/guard’s door.
Additional strength can be gained by adding a strip of styrene to the front of the solebar in line with
the step, once painted it is hardly noticeable, see right.
**TIP - The outer edges of the steps should not be left too square cut, i.e. round off the upper edges
and slightly round the corners. The steps were made of wood and soon became worn.
ETCHED WINDOW FRAMES. READ ALL THE STEPS BEFORE PROCEEDING.
The window frames do not have an etch number. There are 3 types of frame: large, small and toilet so
there shouldn’t be too much confusion there. It has been suggested by a customer to leave the fitting of
the window frames until the basics of the construction have been completed as the central ventilator bars
may get damaged whilst handling. Whilst this is a possibility our demo model was built with the frames in
place without a problem, but it is certainly worth considering this option before continuing.
58)
Carefully cut the window frames from the etch and file the tags smooth taking care not to file
into the frame itself. Fit the toilet window vent centrally on its backing prior to frame fitment. DO NOT
fold out the central ventilator opening tabs of the main windows until the window frames are fitted.
59)
Check that the frames fit the openings (dry run) - the openings should be very slightly larger
than the locating lip on the reverse of the window frame.
Before installing the etched window frames check the fit of the window glazing within the openings.
Carefully file the edges of the glazing panels until they fit snuggly, but not sloppy nor tight.
Using a slower acting superglue may be preferable when fitting the window frames as it would allow you
more time to align the window frame before the glue sets.
60)
Apply a small amount of superglue directly to the rear frame at the top only. Position the top
of the frame into the opening and allow to set. Now, using a small piece of flat material roughly the
width of the window frame, gently press the bottom into place and apply glue to the frame/window
opening joint from the inside (this is most easily achieved with an old craft knife blade dipped in glue).
Once the frame is secure apply more glue to the side joints as appropriate.
61)
Remove any excess glue after glue has set using a glass fibre pen, or fine abrasive paper
(glass fibre pen found to be best for this).
62)
Once all is set and clean of excess glue fold the central ventilator tabs outward. This is best
done with small pliers both at the same time in a squashing action. You may prefer to leave this until
the sides have been assembled, but before painting.
FINISHING
With the main construction now complete it is time to prepare the model for painting. Whilst this
consists of mainly cleaning and washing of all the parts, it also gives you another opportunity to check
the security of the various fittings. Anything that cannot stand cleaning will probably not withstand
long-term use, so it’s better to have bits falling off now than later - refit as required!
INTERNAL DETAILS
63.1) Remove the appropriate number of seats from the sprues and prepare them by removing the
ejection pin marks (small round marks on seat back) and moulding feed joints.
15
STYRENE STRIP
STEP