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Yamaha DRAG STAR XVS1100A Owner's Manual

Other manuals for DRAG STAR XVS1100A: Owner's Manual, Owner's Manual, Owner's Manual

Summary of DRAG STAR XVS1100A

  • Page 1

    Warnings, cautions and notes the terms warning, caution and note have specific meanings in this manual. A warning emphasizes areas where injury or even death could result from negligence. Mechani- cal damage may also occur. Warnings should be taken seriously. A caution emphasizes areas where equipme...

  • Page 2

    3. Do not add fuel to the fuel tank or service the fuel system while the vehicle is near open flames, around sparks or near someone who is smoking. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air; it collects in low areas and is more easily ignited than liquid gasoline. 4. Allow the engine to cool completely bef...

  • Page 3

    Record these numbers in the quick reference data section at the front of the book. Have these numbers available when ordering parts. If neces- sary, use table 1 and table 2 to identify a particular motorcycle. Fasteners proper fastener selection and installation is im- portant to ensure that the veh...

  • Page 4

    Warning do not install fasteners with a strength classification lower than what was originally installed by the manufacturer. Doing so may cause equipment failure and/or damage. Torque specifications the components of the motorcycle may be sub- jected to uneven stresses if the fasteners of the vari-...

  • Page 5

    To use a cotter pin, first make sure the pin’s diam- eter is correct for the hole in the fastener. After cor- rectly tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends over the fastener (figure 7). Unless instructed to do so, never loosen a torqu...

  • Page 6

    Most often required. Make sure to follow the manu- facturer’s recommendations for lubricant types. Engine oils generally, all liquid lubricants are called oil. They may be mineral-based (including petroleum bases), natural-based (vegetable and animal bases), synthetic-based, or emulsions (mixtures)....

  • Page 7

    Brake fluid will damage plastic, painted or plated surfaces. Use extreme care when working with brake fluid. Immediately clean up any spills with soap and water. Rinse the area with plenty of clean water. Hydraulic brake systems require clean and mois- ture-free brake fluid. Never reuse brake fluid....

  • Page 8

    Gasket remover aerosol gasket remover can help remove stub- born gaskets. This product can speed up the re- moval process and prevent damage to the mating surface that may be caused by a scraping tool. Most of these products are very caustic. Follow the gasket remover manufacturer’s instructions for...

  • Page 9

    The number stamped on the wrench refers to the distance between the work areas. This must match the distance across two parallel flats on the bolt head or nut. The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping. The box-en...

  • Page 10

    Warning do not use hand sockets with air or impact tools. They may shatter and cause injury. Always wear eye protec tion when using impact or air tools. Various handles are available for sockets. The speed handle is used for fast operation. Flexible ratchet heads in varying lengths allow the socket ...

  • Page 11

    Specifications in this manual provide an indication of the range required. A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be properly cared for to remain accurate. Store torque wrenches in cases or separate padded drawers within a toolbox. Follow the manufacturer’s in- structions for their care and c...

  • Page 12

    General information 13 1 21 how to measure torque wrench effective length l l l l l + a = effective length l = effective length no calculation needed a a 22 23.

  • Page 13

    Pliers. The sharp jaws will damage the objects they hold. Snap ring pliers snap ring pliers (figure 24) are specialized pliers with tips that fit into the ends of snap rings to re- move and install them. Snap ring pliers are available with a fixed action (either internal or external) or convertible ...

  • Page 14

    Is easily felt. This feel for the equipment produces consistently accurate measurements and reduces the risk of damaging the tool or component. Refer to the following sections for a description of various measuring tools. Feeler gauge the feeler or thickness gauge (figure 26) is used for measuring t...

  • Page 15

    Micrometers a micrometer is an instrument designed for linear measurement using the decimal divisions of the inch or meter (figure 29). While there are many types and styles of micrometers, most of the proce- dures in this manual call for an outside micrometer. The outside micrometer is used to meas...

  • Page 16

    1. Read the upper half of the sleeve line and count the number of lines visible. Each upper line equals 1 mm. 2. See if the half-millimeter line is visible on the lower sleeve line. If so, add 0.50 to the reading in step 1. 3. Read the thimble mark that aligns with the sleeve line. Each thimble mark...

  • Page 17

    Care micrometers are precision instruments. They must be used and maintained with great care. Note the following: 1. Store micrometers in protective cases or separate padded drawers in a toolbox. 2. When in storage, make sure the spindle and anvil faces do not contact each other or any other objects...

  • Page 18

    Mounting bases: magnetic, clamp, or screw-in stud. When purchasing a dial indicator, select the mag- netic stand type (b, figure 36) with a continuous dial. Cylinder bore gauge a cylinder bore gauge is similar to a dial indica- tor. The gauge set shown in figure 37 consists of a dial indicator, hand...

  • Page 19

    Electrical basics is necessary to perform simple diagnostic tests. Voltage voltage is the electrical potential or pressure in an electrical circuit and is expressed in volts. The more pressure (voltage) in a circuit, the more work can be performed. Direct current (dc) voltage means the electricity f...

  • Page 20

    Starting the procedure. Perform each procedure in sequence. 10. Recommendations are occasionally made to re- fer service to a dealership or specialist. In these cases, the work can be performed more economi- cally by the specialist than by the home mechanic. 11. The term replace means to discard a d...

  • Page 21

    Repairing damaged threads occasionally, threads are stripped through care- lessness or impact damage. Often the threads can be repaired by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through the threads (figure 42). To clean or repair spark plug threads, use a...

  • Page 22

    Sulting from friction. Because bearings are preci- sion parts, they must be properly lubricated and maintained. If a bearing is damaged, replace it im- mediately. When installing a new bearing, take care to prevent damaging it. Bearing replacement proce- dures are included in the individual chapters...

  • Page 23

    When installing a bearing onto a shaft, apply pres- sure to the inner bearing race (figure 48). 2. When installing a bearing as described in step 1, some type of driver is required. Never strike the bearing directly with a hammer or the bearing will be damaged. When installing a bearing, use a piece...

  • Page 24

    2. Follow this step when installing a bearing in a housing. Bearings are generally installed in a hous- ing with a slight interference fit. Driving the bearing into the housing using normal methods may damage the housing or cause bearing damage. Instead, heat the housing before the bearing is instal...

  • Page 25

    Seal replacement seals (figure 51) are used to contain oil, water, grease or combustion gasses in a housing or shaft. Improper removal of a seal can damage the housing or shaft. Improper installation of the seal can dam- age the seal. Note the following: 1. Prying is generally the easiest and most e...

  • Page 26

    Riding time since the last service. Fill the engine with the recommended type of oil. 3. Drain all fuel from the fuel tank, run the engine until all the fuel is consumed from the lines and car- buretor. 4. Remove the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of engine oil into the cylinders. Place a rag over ...

  • Page 27

    Table 1 xvs1100 serial numbers (continued) year/model starting vin number starting primary id number model code 2003 xvs1100r (usa) jyavp11e*3a034321 vp11e-0034321 5pbd xvs1100r c (ca) jyavp11y*3a004090 vp11y-0004090 5pbe xvs1100r (cdn) – – – xvs1100r (eur) – – – xvs1100r(aus) – – – 2004 n/a 2005 n/...

  • Page 28

    Table 3 model names and numbers model name model number usa, california and canada models v-star 1100 (1999 model) xvs1100 v-star 1100 custom (2000-on) xvs1100 v-star 1100 classic xvs1100a v-star 1100 silverado xvs1100a v-star 1100 classic cast wheel xvs1100a uk models xvs1100 drag star xvs1100 xvs1...

  • Page 29

    Table 6 decimal and metric equivalents decimal metric decimal metric fractions in. Mm fractions in. Mm 1/64 0.015625 0.39688 33/64 0.515625 13.09687 1/32 0.03125 0.79375 17/32 0.53125 13.49375 3/64 0.046875 1.19062 35/64 0.546875 13.89062 1/16 0.0625 1.58750 9/16 0.5625 14.28750 5/64 0.078125 1.9843...

  • Page 30

    Table 8 conversion formulas multiply: by: to get the equivalent of: length inches 25.4 millimeter inches 2.54 centimeter miles 1.609 kilometer feet 0.3048 meter millimeter 0.03937 inches centimeter 0.3937 inches kilometer 0.6214 mile meter 0.0006214 mile fluid volume u.S. Quarts 0.9463 liters u.S. G...

  • Page 31

    Table 9 technical abbreviations (continued) ais air induction system atdc after top dead center api american petroleum institute aus australia model bbdc before bottom dead center bdc bottom dead center btdc before top dead center c celsius (centigrade) ca california model cc cubic centimeters cdi c...

  • Page 32

    Table 10 metric tap and drill size (continued) metric drill decimal size equivalent fraction nearest fraction 5 × 0.90 no. 20 0.161 5/32 6 × 1.00 no. 9 0.196 13/64 7 × 1.00 16/64 0.234 15/64 8 × 1.00 j 0.277 9/32 8 × 1.25 17/64 0.265 17/64 9 × 1.00 5/16 0.3125 5/16 9 × 1.25 5/16 0.3125 5/16 10 × 1.2...

  • Page 33

    Chapter two troubleshooting begin any troubleshooting procedure by defining the symptoms as precisely as possible. Gather as much information as possible to aid diagnosis. Never assume anything and do not overlook the ob- vious. Make sure there is fuel in the tank, and the fuel valve is in the on po...

  • Page 34

    Troubleshooting 35 2 four-stroke engine operating principles intake valve opens as piston begins downward, drawing air/fuel mixture into the cylinder through the valve. Compression intake intake valve closes and piston rises in cylinder, compressing air/fuel mixture. Exhaust power spark plug ignites...

  • Page 35

    C. The engine can start when the sidestand is up and the transmission is in neutral. D. If the sidestand is up, the engine will also start if the transmission is in gear and the clutch le- ver is pulled in. 2. Before starting the engine, shift the transmission into neutral and make sure the engine s...

  • Page 36

    If you smell gasoline after attempting to start the engine, the engine is probably flooded. To start a flooded engine: 1. Move the choke lever (figure 3) to the fully off position. 2. Turn the engine stop switch to the run position (a, figure 2). 3. Open the throttle completely and press the starter...

  • Page 37

    Warning make sure the spark plug is away from the spark plug hole in the cylin der so the spark cannot ignite the mix ture in that cylinder. If the engine is flooded, do not perform this test. The firing of the spark plug can ignite fuel ejected from the opened spark plug hole. Warning during the ne...

  • Page 38

    5. If the spark is good, check the following: a. Try starting the engine by following normal starting procedures. If the engine does not start, go to step 6. B. If the engine starts but then stops, check for an inoperative choke, incorrect carburetor ad- justment, leaking intake manifolds, improper ...

  • Page 39

    A. Incorrect ignition timing due to a malfunc- tioning ignition component. B. Improperly adjusted valves or worn valve seats. C. Low engine compression. D. Clogged carburetor jet(s). E. Fouled spark plugs. F. Incorrect spark plug heat range. G. Oil level too low or too high. H. Contaminated oil. I. ...

  • Page 40

    2. Carburetor adjustment incorrect; mixture too rich. 3. Choke not operating correctly. 4. Contaminants in the fuel. 5. Clogged fuel line. 6. Spark plugs fouled. 7. Ignition coil defective. 8. Ignitor unit or pickup coil defective 9. Loose or defective ignition circuit wire. 10. Short circuit from d...

  • Page 41

    Engine lubrication an improperly operating engine lubrication sys- tem will quickly lead to engine seizure. Check the engine oil level before each ride, and top off the oil as described in chapter three. Oil pump service is described in chapter five. Oil consumption high or engine smokes excessively...

  • Page 42

    Engine leakdown test perform an engine leakdown test to pinpoint en- gine problems caused by compression leaks. While a compression test (chapter three) can identify a weak cylinder, a leakdown test can determine where the leak occurs. A cylinder leakdown test is made by applying compressed air thro...

  • Page 43

    Clutch slips if the engine speed increases without an increase in motorcycle speed, the clutch is probably slipping. Some main causes of clutch slipping are: 1. Incorrect clutch cable adjustment. 2. Weak clutch springs. 3. Worn clutch or friction plates. 4. Damaged pressure plate. 5. Clutch release ...

  • Page 44

    5. Bent or damaged shift fork. 6. Worn gear dogs or slots. 7. Damaged shift drum grooves. Jumps out of gear 1. Loose or damaged shift drum stopper arm. 2. Bent or damaged shift fork(s). 3. Bent shift fork shaft(s). 4. Damaged shift drum grooves. 5. Worn gear dogs or slots. 6. Broken shift linkage re...

  • Page 45

    7. Incorrect air/fuel mixture. 8. Plugged carburetor jets. 9. Partially plugged fuel tank breather hose. 10. Faulty fuel pump. 11. Faulty starting circuit cutoff relay. Incorrect fast idle speed a fast idle speed can be due to one of the follow- ing problems: 1. Idle adjust screw incorrectly set. 2....

  • Page 46

    Shooting procedures listed below. Refer to the wir- ing diagram at the end of this book. Perform the troubleshooting test procedures in the listed sequence. Each test presumes the compo- nents tested in the earlier steps are working prop- erly. The tests can yield invalid results if they are perform...

  • Page 47

    6. Check all electrical wires where they join with the individual metal terminals in both the male and female connectors. Note dielectric grease is special grease that can be used on electrical compo nents such as connectors and battery connections. Dielectric grease can be purchased at automotive p...

  • Page 48

    3. Select two points within the circuit where there should be continuity. 4. Attach one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. 5. If there is continuity, the self-powered test light bulb will turn on. 6. If there is no continuity, the self-powered test light bulb will not come on indicat...

  • Page 49

    Nection to ground is good so the problem is between the lamp and the power source. To isolate the problem, connect the jumper be- tween the battery and the lamp (b, figure 13). If it comes on, the problem is between these two points. Next, connect the jumper between the battery and the fuse side of ...

  • Page 50

    4. The voltmeter should indicate 0 volts. If there is a drop of 1 volt or more, there is a problem within the circuit. A voltage drop reading of 12 volts indi- cates an open in the circuit. Continuity test a continuity test is used to determine the integrity of a circuit, wire or component. A circui...

  • Page 51

    Is good, the cause must be in the wiring used only by the suspect circuit. If all related circuits are faulty at the same time, the probable cause is a poor ground connection or a blown fuse(s). As with all troubleshooting, analyze typical symptoms in a systematic manner. Never assume anything, and ...

  • Page 52

    4. Test the starting circuit cutoff relay (sccr) by performing the continuity test described in chapter nine. 5. Test the starting system diode by performing the sccr diode test described in chapter nine. 6. Test the continuity of the starter relay (chapter nine). 7. Check the continuity of the main...

  • Page 53

    A turn signal light and/or turn signal indicator fails to flash 1. Check the continuity of the affected turn signal bulb and socket. 2. Check the continuity of the bulb and socket for the turn signal indicator light. 3. Check the continuity of the turn signal switch (chapter nine). 4. Perform the tu...

  • Page 54

    Soft suspension (front fork) 1. Insufficient tire pressure. 2. Insufficient fork oil level or fluid capacity. 3. Incorrect oil viscosity. 4. Weak or damaged fork springs. Soft suspension (rear shock absorbers) 1. Insufficient rear tire pressure. 2. Weak or damaged shock absorber spring. 3. Damaged s...

  • Page 55

    Chapter three lubrication, maintenance and tune-up this chapter describes lubrication, maintenance and tune-up procedures. Minor problems found during periodic inspec- tions are generally simple and inexpensive to cor- rect. However, they could lead to major problems if not corrected promptly. Befor...

  • Page 56

    For convenience, most of the procedures listed in table 1 are described in this chapter. Procedures that require more than minor disassembly or adjust- ment are covered in the appropriate chapter in the manual. Refer to the table of contents or index to locate a particular procedure. Cylinder number...

  • Page 57

    5. Wipe the interior of the air filter housing with a shop rag dampened with cleaning solvent. Remove any debris that may have passed through a broken element. 6. Inspect the air filter element for tears or other damage that would allow unfiltered air to pass into the engine. Also check the element ...

  • Page 58

    2. Remove the spark plugs as described in this chapter. 3. Insert each spark plug into its spark plug cap, and ground the spark plug against the cylinder head (figure 7). 4. Turn the compression gauge into one cylinder following the manufacturer’s instructions (figure 8). Make sure the gauge is prop...

  • Page 59

    8. Shut off the engine, and disconnect the timing light and portable tachometer. Install the timing in- spection cover (a, figure 9). Valve clearance valve clearance measurement and adjustment must be performed with the engine at room temper- ature (below 35° c [95° f]). The exhaust valve is located...

  • Page 60

    Note a cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke has free play in both rocker arms, which indicates that both valves are closed. 9. Make sure the cylinder is at tdc by pressing each rocker arm. The intake and exhaust rocker arms should have free play. If both rocker arms do not have free play, rotat...

  • Page 61

    13. Perform steps 10 and 11 to check and adjust each valve in the front cylinder. 14. When the clearance of each valve is within specification, reinstall the removed parts by revers- ing the removal procedure. Note the following: a. Before installing the front-cylinder cam sprocket cover, install a ...

  • Page 62

    Caution do not clean the spark plugs with a sand blasting device. This type of cleaning may leave abrasive material on the plug, which can enter the cylin der and cause damage. 6. Inspect the spark plug carefully. Look for a plug with broken center porcelain, excessively eroded electrodes, and exces...

  • Page 63

    The spark plug post. If the cap does not completely contact the plug, the en gine may falter and cut out at high en gine speeds. 6. Install each plug cap onto the correct spark plug. Press the cap onto the spark plug and rotate the as- sembly slightly in both directions. Make sure it is attached to ...

  • Page 64

    Carbon fouled soft, dry, sooty deposits covering the entire firing end of the plug are evidence of incomplete combus- tion. Even though the firing end of the plug is dry, the deposits decrease the plug’s insulation. The car- bon forms an electrical path that bypasses the elec- trodes resulting in a ...

  • Page 65

    Blistered porcelain insulator surface. This condition is commonly caused by a spark plug with a heat range that is too hot. If the spark plug heat range is correct, consider the following causes: 1. Lean air/fuel mixture. 2. Improperly operating ignition component. 3. Engine lubrication system malfu...

  • Page 66

    Oils are designed specifically for au tomotive applications. The additives added to these oils may cause engine and/or clutch damage in motorcycle applications. Note never dispose of engine oil in the trash, on the ground or down a storm drain. Many service stations and oil retailers accept used oil...

  • Page 67

    In the hole with the small o-ring. See a, fig- ure 30 and b, figure 28. Torque the oil filter outer cover bolts to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). 9. Remove the oil filler cap (d, figure 9) and in- sert a funnel into the oil filler hole. Fill the crank- case with the correct weight and quantity of oil (table 4...

  • Page 68

    4. Attach a portable tachometer to the no. 2 cylin- der (front cylinder) spark plug lead following the manufacturer’s instructions. 5. Remove the plug (figure 33) from the vacuum fitting on each cylinder’s intake manifold. On mod- els with an ais system, remove the ais hose (fig- ure 34) from the va...

  • Page 69

    6. Rev the engine a couple of times to see if it set- tles down to the set speed. Readjust as necessary. 7. Shut off the engine and disconnect the portable tachometer. Throttle cable adjustment always check the throttle cables before making any carburetor adjustments. Too much free play causes delay...

  • Page 70

    Routed incorrectly or there is insufficient cable free play. Make the necessary corrections. Control cables lubricate and adjust the control cables at the in- tervals specified in table 1. When lubricating a ca- ble, also inspect it for fraying and check the cable sheath for chafing. Cables can be l...

  • Page 71

    4. Attach a cable lubricator to the cable following the manufacturer’s instructions. 5. Insert the nozzle of the lubricant can into the lu- bricator (figure 40), press the button on the can and hold it down until the lubricant begins to flow out of the other end of the cable. Note place a shop cloth...

  • Page 72

    1. Securely support the motorcycle on a level sur- face. 2. Operate the sidestand, and check its movement and spring tension. Replace the spring if it is weak or damaged. 3. Lubricate the sidestand pivot surfaces with lith- ium soap grease. 4. Check the sidestand switch operation as follows: a. Park...

  • Page 73

    Removal/installation 1. Securely support the motorcycle on a level sur- face. 2. Remove the battery cover as described in chap- ter fourteen. 3. Disconnect the negative cable (a, figure 46) from the battery. 4. Pull back the boot and disconnect the positive cable (b, figure 46). 5. Remove the batter...

  • Page 74

    Charging a digital voltmeter and a charger with an adjust- able amperage output are required when charging a maintenance free battery. If this equipment is not available, have the battery charged by a shop with the proper equipment. Excessive voltage and am- perage from an unregulated charger can da...

  • Page 75

    10. Install the battery into the motorcycle as de- scribed in this chapter. New battery initialization always replace a maintenance free battery with another maintenance free battery. Also make sure the battery is charged completely before installing it. Failure to do so will reduce the life of the ...

  • Page 76

    Runout (side-to-side movement) or radial runout (up-and-down movement) exceeds the specifica- tion in table 5, remeasure both axial and radial run- out (figure 49) as described in chapter ten. Front suspension fork oil change yamaha does not provide an oil change interval for the front fork. Nonethe...

  • Page 77

    2. The front fork makes a clicking or clunking noise when the front brake is applied. 3. The steering feels tight or slow. 4. The motorcycle does not want to steer straight on level road surfaces. Inspection 1. Securely support the motorcycle so that the front tire clears the ground. 2. Check the be...

  • Page 78

    Ter twelve for correct tightening pro cedures and torque specifications. Shock absorber spring preload adjustment caution never turn the cam ring beyond the maximum or minimum position. The spring preload can be adjusted to seven dif- ferent positions to suit riding, load and speed condi- tions. The...

  • Page 79

    Brakes brake hoses and seals replace the brake hoses and piston seals every two years. Check the brake hoses between the master cylin- der and each brake caliper. If there is any leak, tighten the connections and bleed the brakes as de- scribed in chapter thirteen. If this does not stop the leak or ...

  • Page 80

    5. Add brake fluid from a sealed brake fluid con- tainer. 6. Reinstall the diaphragm, diaphragm plate and the top cover. Brake pad inspection inspect the brake pads for excessive or uneven wear, scoring and oil or grease on the friction sur- face. 1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. ...

  • Page 81

    Clockwise to raise the brake pedal and coun- terclockwise to lower it. B. Tighten the locknut to 16 n•m (12 ft.-lb.). C. Check the end of the brake pushrod. It must be visible through the hole (c, figure 64) in the clevis. 4. After adjusting the brake pedal height, make sure the rear brake does not ...

  • Page 82

    Table 1 maintenance schedule* (continued) 4000 miles (7000 km) or 7 months check the valve clearance; adjust as necessary check the condition of the spark plugs; clean and adjust the gap as necessary check the crankcase ventilation hose for cracks or damage; replace as necessary check the fuel lines...

  • Page 83

    Table 2 tire specifications xvs1100 models front tire size 110/90-18 61s manufacturer bridgestone exedra l309, dunlop k555f rear tire size 170/80-15m/c 77s manufacturer usa, california and canada models bridgestone exedra g546g, dunlop k555 europe and australia models bridgestone exedra g546, dunlop...

  • Page 84

    Table 4 recommended lubricants and fluids (continued) engine oil api classification se, sf or sg viscosity 5° c (40° f) or above sae 20w40 15° c (60° f) or below sae 10w30 capacity oil change only 3.0 l (3.2 u.S. Qt. [2.6 imp. Qt.]) oil and filter change 3.1 l (3.3 u.S. Qt. [2.7 imp. Qt.]) when engi...

  • Page 85

    Table 6 maintenance and tune up torque specifications item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Air filter cover bolts 10 89 – brake pedal height adjuster locknut 16 – 12 cam sprocket cover bolts 10 89 – clutch adjuster locknut 12 106 – final gearcase drain bolt 23 – 17 final gearcase oil filler bolt 23 – 17 fork bo...

  • Page 86

    Chapter four engine top end this chapter provides complete service and over- haul procedures for the engine top end components. This includes the camshafts, valves, cylinder heads, pistons, piston rings and the cylinder blocks. Refer to chapter three for valve adjustment procedures. Refer to basic s...

  • Page 87

    During removal so it can be easily identified and in- stalled on the correct cylinder during assembly. Removal/installation 1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Remove the fuel tank, air filter housing, and surge tank and carburetor assembly as described in chapter eight. 3. The sm...

  • Page 88

    Engine top end 89 4 1. Cylinder head nut 2. Cylinder head cover bracket 3. Cylinder head cap nut 4. Washer 5. Cylinder bolt 6. Valve cover bolt 7. Intake valve cover 8. O-ring 9. Intake manifold 10. Intake manifold bolt 11. Dowel 3 12. Gasket 13. Rear cylinder head 14. Exhaust valve cover 15. Exhaus...

  • Page 89

    90 chapter four 13. Front cylinder head 14. Cam sprocket 15. Cam sprocket plate 16. Washer 17. Cam sprocket bolt 18. Breather plate 19. O-ring 20. Cam sprocket cover 21. Cam sprocket cover bolt 22. Gasket 23. Dowel 4 1. Cylinder head cap nut 2. Washer 3. Cylinder head nut 4. Cylinder head cover brac...

  • Page 90

    Mark. Take a photograph or make a drawing so you can correctly time the camshaft during assembly. 8a. When servicing the rear cylinder, set it to top dead center on the compression stroke as follows: a. Use the flywheel nut to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the t-mark on the flywheel (a, figure...

  • Page 91

    9) on the flywheel aligns with the alternator cover cutout (b). B. Rotate the crankshaft another 290° clockwise until the i-mark on the flywheel (a, figure 11) aligns with the cutout in the alternator cover (b). C. Make sure the timing mark on the front cam sprocket plate (a, figure 12) aligns with ...

  • Page 92

    Sprocket on the cam chain drive as sembly. If the chain is not held taut, the chain may become kinked, and cause damage to the crankcase, the cam chain, or cam chain drive assembly. 15. Tie a safety wire around the cam chain and se- cure the wire to the engine so the chain will not fall into the cra...

  • Page 93

    24. If necessary, remove the intake manifold and its o-ring from the cylinder head. Note an exhaust manifold is not used on the front cylinder. 25. If necessary, remove the two manifold nuts (a, figure 19) and remove the exhaust manifold (b) from the rear cylinder. Also remove and discard the exhaus...

  • Page 94

    Could be damaged if it is not tightened properly. 11. Following the tightening sequence shown in figure 15, torque the fasteners in 1/2 turn incre- ments and in two stages to the specifications. Torque the fasteners to 1/2 the given torque, then torque them to their final specifications: a. Cylinder...

  • Page 95

    Cam chain tensioner hole and tension the chain. The timing mark on the cam sprocket (b, figure 14) should align with the pointer on the cylinder head (c) as noted during removal. 19. If the timing marks do not align, remove the sprocket. Use a screwdriver to walk the cam chain one way or the other a...

  • Page 96

    25. Install the valve covers (figure 5) onto the cyl- inder head. Lubricate the new o-ring with lithium soap grease, and torque the valve cover bolts to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). 26. If the intake manifold was removed, install it. Lubricate a new o-ring with lithium soap grease, and torque the intake man...

  • Page 97

    Use a spark plug thread tap (figure 30) to clean the threads. If the damage is severe, restore the threads by installing a steel thread insert. Thread insert kits can be purchased at automotive supply stores or they can be installed at a yamaha dealership. 5. After all carbon is removed from the com...

  • Page 98

    Sprocket on the cam chain drive as sembly. 14. Check the sliding surfaces (b, figure 20) of the front cam chain guide and the rear chain guide (the bolted guide) for wear or damage. Replace the chain guide(s) as necessary. 15. If the exhaust manifold was removed, install it onto the rear cylinder. I...

  • Page 99

    Bushing is severely worn, inspect the bushing bore in the cylinder head. The surface should be smooth with no visible marks. Replace the cylinder head if this surface is worn. 3. Visually inspect the camshaft bearing journals (a, figure 38) for wear and scoring. Replace as necessary. 4. Check the ca...

  • Page 100

    Measure the cam lobe height (figure 41) and width (figure 42) with a micrometer. Replace the cam- shaft if a lobe is worn beyond the service limits specified in table 2. 6. Measure the camshaft runout with a dial indica- tor and v-blocks. Replace the camshaft if the runout exceeds the service limit....

  • Page 101

    Shaft outside diameter from the bushing inside diameter. If the clearance is outside the range speci- fied in table 2, compare the camshaft journal out- side diameter and bushing inside diameter measurements to the specifications. Replace the camshaft and/or bushing, whichever is out of specificatio...

  • Page 102

    7. Inspect the rocker arms and shafts as described in this section. Installation note each rocker arm and shaft have be come mated through wear. Unless a part is being replaced, install each rocker arm with its original shaft, and install them in their original locations (intake or exhaust side) in ...

  • Page 103

    Pad is worn or damaged, also inspect the cam lobe for scoring, chipping or flat spots. 3. Inspect the valve adjuster (b, figure 51) where it rides on the valve stem. Replace the adjuster if it is scratched, pitted or shows signs of blue discolor- ation. 4. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker a...

  • Page 104

    Tion. The cam chain drive assembly cannot be properly timed unless the flywheel is removed. Remove the fly wheel now in order to study the align ment of the timing marks. 3. Set the rear cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke and remove the flywheel as de- scribed in chapter five. Not...

  • Page 105

    B. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the drive teeth on the gear until one set of teeth aligns with the other. C. Insert the 6-mm pin (figure 58) into the aligned hole to lock the gear. 3. Position the timing gear so the side with the 2 stamp faces the outboard side of the engine. Seat the ca...

  • Page 106

    Removal (front cylinder) refer to figure 66 when performing this proce- dure. 1. Remove the front cylinder head as described in this chapter. 2. Remove the front chain guide by lifting it from its seat in the crankcase and pulling it from the cam chain tunnel in the cylinder. Note note that the timi...

  • Page 107

    108 chapter four front 1. Rear chain guide 2. Chain guide bolt 3. Cam chain drive assembly 4. Cam chain 5. Front chain guide 6. Retainer bolt 7. Shaft retainer 8. Drive assembly shaft 66 9. Woodruff key 10. Primary drive nut 11. Lockwasher 12. Keyed washer 13. Timing gear 14. Pin 15. Spring 16. Prim...

  • Page 108

    Cam chain drive assembly is installed in the correct cylinder. 2. Preload the cam chain drive assembly as follows: a. Cut a 6 × 15 mm pin from the shoulder (non-threaded portion) of a 6-mm bolt. B. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to pry the drive teeth on the gear until one set of teeth aligns wit...

  • Page 109

    A. Remove the mounting bolts (figure 72) from the bracket, and pull the assembly from the crankcase. B. Fit the new cam chain assembly into place. Install the mounting bolts and torque them to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). 5. Replace any part that is worn or damaged. Valves and valve components complete valv...

  • Page 110

    2. Perform the cylinder head leak test described in cylinder head in this chapter. 3. Remove the camshaft and rocker arms as de- scribed in this chapter. Note a bore protector can be made from a plastic 35 mm film canister (figure 74). Cut out the bottom of the canister and part of its side. Cut awa...

  • Page 111

    Or into separate small boxes. Label the set so you will know what cylinder it came from and whether it is an in take or an exhaust valve. This keeps parts from getting mixed up and makes installation simpler. Do not mix components from different valve assemblies or excessive wear may occur. 13. Repe...

  • Page 112

    Caution to avoid loss of spring tension, do not compress the springs any more than necessary to install the valve keepers. 9. Compress the valve springs with a valve spring compressor and install the valve keepers (figure 76). 10. When both valve keepers are seated around the valve stem, slowly rele...

  • Page 113

    The valve guide if any measurement is outside the specified range. 7. Subtract the valve stem outside diameter (step 4) from the valve guide inside diameter (step 6). The difference is the valve stem-to-guide clearance. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the valve and valve guide. N...

  • Page 114

    1. 8 mm (0.31 in.) valve guide remover (ym-01200 or 90890-01211). 2. 8 mm (0.31 in.) valve guide installer (ym-01200 or 90890-01200). 3. 8 mm (0.31 in.) valve guide reamer (ym-01201 or 90890-04013). Procedure note the valve guide contracts when it is cooled, which reduces the overall di ameter of th...

  • Page 115

    7. Remove and discard the valve guide and circlip. Never reinstall a valve guide or circlip. They are no longer true and are not within tolerance. 8. After the cylinder head cools, check the guide bore for carbon or other contamination. Clean the bore thoroughly. 9. Reheat the cylinder head as descr...

  • Page 116

    18. Reface the valve seats as described in this chap- ter. 19. Install the intake manifold. Use new o-rings, and torque the intake manifold bolts to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). 20. When servicing a rear cylinder head, install the exhaust manifold with a new exhaust gasket. Torque the exhaust manifold nuts ...

  • Page 117

    Ing the cylinder head and taking it to a yamaha deal- ership or machine shop to have the valve seats ground. The following procedure is provided if you choose to perform this task yourself. A valve seat cutter set (consisting of 30°, 45° and 60° cutters and the appropriate handle) is needed. These t...

  • Page 118

    And then use the 45° cutter to center the contact area. 8. If the contact area is too narrow and down away from the valve head (figure 105), first use the 60° cutter and then use the 45° cutter to center the con- tact area. 9. After the desired valve seat position and width is obtained, use the 45° ...

  • Page 119

    Inder head, the valve seat should be tested. Check the seat by performing the leakage test described in the cylinder head section earlier in this chapter. If fluid leaks past any of the seats, disassemble that valve assembly and repeat the lapping procedure until there are no leaks. 7. After the cyl...

  • Page 120

    Engine top end 121 4 1. Cylinder bolt 2. Cylinder 3. Compression ring 4 oil ring 5. Piston pin circlip 6. Piston 7. Base gasket 8. Dowel 9. Front cam chain guide 10. Piston pin 108.

  • Page 121

    12. Follow the break-in procedure in chapter five if the cylinder block was rebored or honed, or if a new piston or piston rings were installed. Inspection the following procedure requires the use of highly specialized and costly measuring instru- ments. If such equipment is not readily available, h...

  • Page 122

    Pistons and piston rings the pistons are made of an aluminum alloy. The piston pins are made of steel and are a precision fit. The piston pin is held in place by a clip at each end. Refer to figure 108 when servicing the piston and rings. Piston removal 1. Remove the cylinder head and cylinder as de...

  • Page 123

    The homemade tool shown in figure 119. Do not drive out the piston pin. This could damage the pis- ton pin, connecting rod or piston. 6. Remove the piston from the connecting rod and remove the remaining circlip from the piston. Dis- card both piston pin circlips. 7. Mark the piston pin and piston s...

  • Page 124

    Note in the next step, install the second circlip with the gap away from the cut out in the piston. 8. Install the second piston pin circlip (figure 118) into the groove in the piston. Make sure the circlip’s end gap does not align with the notch in the piston (figure 120). Also, make sure both pist...

  • Page 125

    Sary, clean the holes and blow them out with com- pressed air. 5. Check the piston skirt (b, figure 122) for gall- ing and abrasion, which may have been caused by piston seizure. If a piston shows signs of partial sei- zure (bits of aluminum build-up on the piston skirt), replace the piston to reduc...

  • Page 126

    Piston pin inspection 1. Clean the piston pin in solvent and dry it thor- oughly. 2. Inspect the piston pin for chrome flaking or cracks. Replace the pin if necessary. 3. Measure the outside diameter of the piston pin with a micrometer (figure 126). If the measure- ment is outside the range specifie...

  • Page 127

    3. Inspect the grooves carefully for burrs, nicks or broken and cracked lands. Recondition or replace the piston if necessary. 4. Roll each ring around its piston groove as shown in figure 131 to check for binding. Minor binding may be cleaned up with a fine-cut file. 5. Measure the thickness of eac...

  • Page 128

    Piston ring installation note when installing any ring, liberally lu bricate the ring and piston groove with clean engine oil. 1. Install the oil control ring assembly into the bot- tom ring groove. Install the oil ring expander spacer first (a, figure 136), then install each ring rail (b). Make sur...

  • Page 129

    Table 1 general engine specifications item specification engine type four-stroke, air-cooled, sohc, v-twin number of cylinders 2 bore × stroke 95 × 75 mm (3.74 × 2.95 in.) displacement 1063 cc (64.87 cu. In.) compression ratio 8.3 : 1 compression pressure 1000 kpa (142 psi) @ 400 rpm ignition timing...

  • Page 130

    Table 2 engine top end specifications (continued) item new mm (in.) service limit mm (in.) valve head diameter intake 47.0-47.2 (1.850-1.858) – exhaust 39.0-39.2 (1.535-1.543) – valve face width (intake and exhaust) 2.1 (0.083) – valve seat width (intake and exhaust) 1.2-1.4 (0.047-0.055) 1.8 (0.071...

  • Page 131

    Table 3 engine top end torque specifications (continued) item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts (rear cylinder) 20 – 15 flywheel nut 175 – 129 intake manifold bolts 10 89 – oil delivery pipe banjo bolt 20 – 15 primary drive nut 110 – 81 rear chain guide bolt 10 89 – rocker arm bolts...

  • Page 132

    Chapter five engine lower end this chapter describes the service procedures for the following lower end components: 1. Crankcase assembly. 2. Crankshaft. 3. Connecting rods. 4. Flywheel and starter clutch. 5. Oil pump. 6. Transmission shaft assemblies (removal and in- stallation only). When inspecti...

  • Page 133

    134 chapter five 1 13. Engine bracket upper through bolt 14. Rear frame member bolt 15. Engine bracket lower nut 16. Engine bracket 17. Engine bracket upper nut 8. Engine bracket lower through bolt 9. Upper rear engine mounting bolt 10. Engine mounting nut 11. Front frame member bolt 12. Removable f...

  • Page 134

    Removal caution yamaha recommends removing the alternator cover before removing the engine from the frame. Though this is necessary, it also exposes the alterna tor cover mating surface on the crankcase, which could be damaged during engine removal. If this surface is marred and leaks oil, the crank...

  • Page 135

    Note two types of rocker arm bolts are used in the cylinder head: one with a single oil hole (a, figure 5) and one with two oil holes (b). Note that the bolt with two oil holes (b, figure 5) se cures the oil pipe to the cylinder head. B. Remove the rocker arm bolt (figure 6) that secures the oil pip...

  • Page 136

    18. Remove the removable frame member as follows: a. Remove the nuts from the upper frame mem- ber bolts (figure 13) and remove the bolts. B. Remove the lower frame member bolts (b, figure 3) and lift the removable frame mem - ber from the frame. 19. Remove the rear upper engine mounting bolt (c, fi...

  • Page 137

    26. Pull back the universal joint boot. Roll the en- gine forward and disengage the universal joint from the driveshaft. 27. With an assistant, lift the engine off the jack and remove it from the right side of the frame. 28. While the engine is removed for service, check all of the frame engine moun...

  • Page 138

    F. Torque the front frame member bolts (figure 13) and rear frame member bolts (b, figure 3) to 48 n•m (35 ft.-lb.). G. Torque the front engine bracket bolts (a, b and c, figure 12 and figure 11) to 48 n•m (35 ft.-lb.). 15. Pull the coolant hose from the left side of the frame and install the altern...

  • Page 139

    140 chapter five 17 alternator cover 1. Dowel 2. Gasket 3. Wire clamp 4. Stator/pickup coil assembly 5. Stator mounting bolt 6. Alternator cover 7. Alternator cover bolt 18 19.

  • Page 140

    5. Remove the sidestand, toolbox cover and right side cover (chapter fourteen). 6. Roll the boot on the toolbox panel from the elec- trical connectors. Disconnect the three-pin stator connector (a, figure 21) and the two-pin pickup coil connector (b) from their respective mates on the wiring harness...

  • Page 141

    A. Make sure the two dowels (c, figure 24) are in place in the crankcase. B. Install a new alternator cover gasket (b, fig- ure 24). C. Lubricate the shift shaft oil seal so it will not be damaged during installation. D. Install the clutch cable/ais bracket in its original location on the alternator...

  • Page 142

    A. Remove the timing cover (c, figure 18) and the flywheel bolt cover (d) from the alterna- tor cover. B. Remove the cam sprocket cover from the rear cylinder head. C. Use the flywheel nut to rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the t-mark on the flywheel (a, figure 29) aligns with the cutout in th...

  • Page 143

    E. If the timing mark on the rear cam sprocket does not align with the pointer on the rear head, rotate the engine one turn clockwise. 2. Remove the alternator cover as described in this chapter. Note install the sheave holder so it sits completely flat against the flywheel. Do not let the sheave ho...

  • Page 144

    8. If necessary, lift the timing gear (a, figure 35) from the back of the flywheel. Remove each pin and spring (figure 36) from the slots in the flywheel. Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring (figure 37). 2. Set the flywheel face down on the bench and in- stall two sets of pins/springs into...

  • Page 145

    Sembly (b, figure 33) aligns with the woodruff key (or the crankshaft keyway) when the cylinder is at top dead center. 10. Position the flywheel so the two marked teeth (a, figure 41) align with the woodruff key in the crankshaft. Slide the flywheel onto the crankshaft so the keyway engages the wood...

  • Page 146

    Starter clutch operational test 1. Set the flywheel on the bench so the starter clutch faces up as shown in figure 36. 2. Hold the flywheel and turn the starter wheel gear clockwise. The wheel gear should turn freely within the starter clutch. 3. Hold the flywheel and try to turn the starter wheel g...

  • Page 147

    3. Inspect the teeth (a, figure 48) of the starter wheel gear. Replace the gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. 4. Inspect the bearing surface (b, figure 48) of the starter wheel gear for nicks or scratches. Replace the wheel gear if it shows signs of wear. 5. Inspect the starter wheel gea...

  • Page 148

    6. If necessary, remove the oil delivery pipe mount- ing bolt (c, figure 53) at each end of the pipe, and remove the oil delivery pipe (d) from the crank- case. Watch for the o-ring (figure 54) behind the fitting on each end of the pipe. Note the oil pump drive sprocket is dam aged during removal. I...

  • Page 149

    150 chapter five 55 oil pump 1. Primary body 2. Oil strainer 3. Indexing pin 4. Outer rotor 5. Inner rotor 6. Secondary body 7. Outer rotor 8. Inner rotor 9. Drive pin 10. Pump shaft 11. Snap ring 12. Washer 13. Oil pump cover 14. Screw 56 57.

  • Page 150

    4. Turn the pump over and lift the primary pump body (figure 59) from the pump. Note this pump has two sets of rotors: a thick set that fits in the primary body and a thin set for the secondary body. Keep each set of rotors together with its respective body. 5. Remove the outer rotor (a, figure 60) ...

  • Page 151

    11. Remove the shaft (figure 67) from the pump cover. Assembly 1. Coat all parts with fresh oil prior to assembly. 2. Install the pump shaft (figure 67) into the pump cover. The end with the holes enters from the out- board side of the cover. 3. Turn the cover over and install the washer (fig- ure 6...

  • Page 152

    1. Clean all parts in solvent and dry them thor- oughly with compressed air. 2. Inspect the primary body (a, figure 68) for cracks and inspect the primary body rotors (b) for wear or abrasion. 3. Inspect the strainer (c, figure 68) for tears or other damage that will allow contaminants into the pump...

  • Page 153

    13. Inspect the drive chain (b, figure 72) for ex- cessive wear or damage. If necessary, replace the chain along with both the drive and driven sprocket. Crankcase the following yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to service the crankcase: 1. Crankcase separating tool (part no. Yu...

  • Page 154

    5. Remove the mounting screw, and lift the shift fork shaft stopper plate (figure 75) from the right crankcase half. Note crankcase bolts are identified by a number embossed on the crankcase near each bolt hole. These numbers also indicate the crankcase bolt tight ening sequence. See figure 76. 6. B...

  • Page 155

    Any washer into its respective hole in the cardboard template so bolts can be quickly identified during assembly. Note bolts no. 15 and no. 16 are silver col ored. These bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations during as sembly. 7. Evenly loosen all the crankcase bolts 1/4 turn at a tim...

  • Page 156

    A. Remove the two dowels (a figure 77) from the crankcase mating surface. B. Remove the o-ring and its short collar (b, figure 77) from the boss beneath the crank - shaft. C. Remove the o-ring from the crankcase mat- ing surface above the middle drive shaft. 13. Remove the oil pressure relief valve ...

  • Page 157

    (b) from the left crankcase half. Store each individ- ual shaft assembly in a sealed and labeled plastic bag. 20. Use the crankcase separating tool to drive the crankshaft from the left crankcase half. Keep the tool centered over the crankshaft and follow the in- structions from the tool’s manufactu...

  • Page 158

    Tion so the neutral knob (a, figure 89) on the drum aligns with the neutral switch (b) in the crankcase. 11. Install the center shift fork (figure 82) into the mainshaft second-third combination gear. Rotate the shift fork so its guide pin engages the groove in the shift drum. 12. Install the shift ...

  • Page 159

    26. Turn the crankcase over and install the left crankcase bolts. Caution rotate the crankshaft frequently dur ing the tightening process. If there is any binding, stop and correct the cause before proceeding. 27. Evenly tighten the left crankcase bolts in 1/4-turn increments in the sequence shown i...

  • Page 160

    6. Inspect the crankcase studs. Make sure they are straight and their threads are in good condition. Make sure they are tightly screwed into the crankcase. 7. Inspect the mating surfaces of both crankcase halves. They must be free of gouges, burrs or any damage that could cause an oil leak. 8. Inspe...

  • Page 161

    Crankshaft refer to figure 94. Removal/installation remove and install the crankshaft as described in crankcase in this chapter. Inspection 1. Clean the crankshaft thoroughly with solvent and dry it with compressed air. Lightly oil the jour- nal surfaces immediately to prevent rust. 2. Blow the oil ...

  • Page 162

    The clearance. If the side clearance is still outside the specified range, replace the crankshaft. 9. Use v-blocks and a dial gauge to check the crankshaft runout (figure 96). If the runout ex- ceeds the specification in table 1, replace the crankshaft. Connecting rods removal/installation note the ...

  • Page 163

    Tab (b) on the bearing insert locks into the cutout in the rod cap or connecting rod. Caution each connecting rod has a y em bossed on one side (figure 100). The connecting rod must be installed so this side faces the left crankshaft end (the tapered end). B. Apply engine oil to the connecting rod b...

  • Page 164

    Dial and lateral play (figure 102). If any play exists, replace the connecting rod (if piston pin outside di- ameter is within specification). 7. Check the connecting rod oil clearance as de- scribed in this chapter. Connecting rod oil clearance 1. Wipe the bearing inserts and crankpins clean. In- s...

  • Page 165

    4. Refer to table 2 and use the bearing number to determine the color code for the bearing insert. In the above example, brown bearing inserts would be installed in the connecting rod. Note determine the bearing insert number for both connecting rods. Then take insert numbers and colors to a yamaha ...

  • Page 166

    Table 3 engine lower end torque specifications item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Alternator cover bolts 10 89 – connecting rod nuts 48 – 35 crankcase stud 10 mm 20 – 15 12 mm 24 – 17 crankcase bolts 6 mm 10 89 – 10 mm 39 – 29 engine mounting hardware cylinder head bracket bolts 48 – 35 cylinder head bracket ...

  • Page 167

    Chapter six clutch and primary drive gear this chapter includes service procedures for the clutch, clutch release mechanism and primary drive gear. When inspecting components, compare any measurement to the specifications in table 1 at the end of the chapter. Replace any part that is dam- aged, worn...

  • Page 168

    7. Remove the clutch cover from the crankcase. Watch for the dowels (a, figure 3) behind the cover. Remove the dowels. 8. Remove and discard the clutch cover gasket (b, figure 3). 9. Inspect the clutch cover for cracks and other signs of wear. Replace the cover if necessary. 10. Installation is the ...

  • Page 169

    C. Install the wire clamps behind the bolts (a, figure 2) noted during removal. D. Apply yamaha bond 1215 or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the two indicated bolts (c, figure 2). Oil will leak past these bolts if the threads are not sealed. E. Torque the clutch cover bolts to 10 n•m (89 in....

  • Page 170

    Clutch and primary drive gear 171 6 7 8 9 clutch 1. Retaining wire 2. Clutch plate no. 1 3. Clutch boss spring 4. Plate seat 5. Clutch boss 6. Thrust washer 7. Clutch housing 8. Pushrod no. 2 9. Friction disc 10. Clutch plate 11. Clutch nut 12. Lock plate 13. Clutch spring bolt 14. Spring plate 15. ...

  • Page 171

    5. Remove the pressure plate (b, figure 10). 6. Remove the washer (figure 11) and the release bearing (figure 12) from pushrod no. 1. 7. Remove pushrod no. 1 (figure 13) from the mainshaft, then remove pushrod no. 2 (figure 14). 8. Note that each friction disc is installed so the tab with the two se...

  • Page 172

    The next step. However, do not use a steel washer. Steel will damage the gear teeth. 11b. If a clutch holder is not available, stuff a shop cloth, copper penny, or brass washer (figure 18) between the primary drive gear and the primary driven gear on the clutch housing. Remove the nut. The washer ho...

  • Page 173

    B. Lift the other end from the hole and remove the retaining wire from the clutch hub. C. Remove clutch plate no. 1 (b, figure 21), the clutch boss spring and the plate seat from the clutch hub. Installation 1. Assemble the clutch boss damper assembly, if it was removed, as follows: a. Install the p...

  • Page 174

    Two semi circular cutouts fits into the clutch housing slot with the two marks. See figure 15. This slot (a, figure 25) is cut down to the bottom of the clutch housing. 9. Install the first friction disc (figure 26) so the tab with the two semi-circular cutouts fit into the marked slot on the clutch...

  • Page 175

    A. Check the inner splines (figure 30) on the clutch plates. Minor roughness can be cleaned with an oilstone or fine file. If any one plate has excessive roughness or wear, re- place all the clutch plates as a set. Note the clutch plate thickness does not apply to clutch plate no. 1. Clutch plate no...

  • Page 176

    Or cracks. Replace the clutch housing if nec- essary. D. If the primary driven gear is worn or dam- aged, also inspect the primary drive gear as described in this chapter. E. Check the damper springs (b, figure 23) in the clutch housing. Replace the housing if any spring is damaged. 6. Inspect the c...

  • Page 177

    1. Remove the alternator cover as described in chapter five. 2. Remove the clutch adjuster locknut (a, figure 38) and washer (b). 3. Disconnect the return spring (a, figure 39) from the post on the alternator cover, and remove the clutch lever (b). 4. Turn the alternator cover over and remove the pu...

  • Page 178

    Assembly 1. Apply grease to the balls in the ball assembly (a, figure 41). 2. Lower the ball assembly (a, figure 41) onto the push screw (b). Seat the balls in the detents. 3. Invert the assembly and install it into the housing on the inboard side of the alternator cover (figure 40). 4. Turn the alt...

  • Page 179

    A. Remove the mounting bolts (a, figure 45), and pull the clutch adjuster cover (b) from the alternator cover. B. Disconnect the clutch cable (figure 46) from the clutch lever. C. Pull the clutch cable end from the port in the alternator cover. 4. Remove any cable ties that secure the clutch ca- ble...

  • Page 180

    Primary drive gear the yamaha sheave holder (part no. Yu-01880 or 90890-04131), or an equivalent flywheel holder, is needed to service the primary drive gear. Removal note when the front cylinder is set to tdc on the compression stroke, the timing mark on the cam sprocket plate may not precisely ali...

  • Page 181

    2. Remove the cylinder head and the cam chain drive assembly from the front cylinder (chapter four). 3. Remove the clutch as described in this chapter. 4. Bend the ears of the lockwasher (a, figure 50) away from the primary gear nut. 5. Hold the flywheel with the sheave holder and re- move the prima...

  • Page 182

    9. Remove the woodruff key (c, figure 53) from the crankshaft. 10. Set the assembly down on the bench. If neces- sary, remove the timing gear (a, figure 54) from the primary drive gear (b). 11. Remove each pin/spring assembly (figure 55) from the slots in the primary drive gear. A total of six pins ...

  • Page 183

    Boss for the cam chain drive assembly shaft (c). See figure 48. 10. Install the cam chain drive assembly and the cylinder head as described in chapter four. 11. Install the clutch as described in this chapter. Inspection 1. Inspect the primary drive gear (figure 60) for broken or missing teeth. If i...

  • Page 184

    Chapter seven transmission, shift mechanism and middle gear this chapter describes service procedures for the transmission, internal shift mechanism, external shift mechanism, middle drive shaft assembly and the middle driven shaft assembly. When inspecting these components, compare any measurement ...

  • Page 185

    186 chapter seven 1 external shift mechanism 1. Washer 2. E-clip 3. Stopper lever spring 4. Stopper lever 5. Collar 6. Pin 7. Shift shaft spring 8. Shift shaft assembly 9. Shift lever 10. Clamp bolt 11. Locknut 12. Shift rod 13. Snap ring 14. Shift pedal (xvs1100a models) 15. Wave washer (xvs1100a m...

  • Page 186

    C. Install the shift lever so the index mark (a, figure 2) on the shift shaft aligns with the slot in the shift lever. D. Torque the shift lever clamp bolt (b, figure 2) to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). E. Torque the footrest bracket bolts (figure 3) to 64 n•m (47 ft.-lb.). F. Adjust the shift pedal as descr...

  • Page 187

    3. Slide the end of the shift shaft into the crankcase boss (b, figure 6) until the assembly bottoms. Note the following: a. The arms of the shift shaft spring (c, figure 4) must straddle the post in the crankcase. B. When the shift arm is released, the shift pawls must engage the pins on the shift ...

  • Page 188

    Transmission, shift mechanism and middle gear 189 7 8 9 10 11 12 internal shift mechanism 1. Retainer screw 2. Shift fork shaft retainer 3. Shift fork shaft 4. Shift fork 5. Shift drum 6. Neutral pin 7. Bearing 8. Pin (20 mm) 9. Pin (16 mm) 10. Shift cam 11. Shift drum screw.

  • Page 189

    8. Check the pins (b, figure 12) and shift cam ramps (c) for wear. A. If necessary, remove the shift drum screw (d, figure 12) to replace the shift cam, pins or bearing. B. During assembly, torque the shift drum screw to 4 n•m (35 in.-lb.). Transmission removal/installation remove and install the tr...

  • Page 190

    The smallest diameter and fifth gear has the largest. On the countershaft, fifth gear has the smallest di- ameter and first gear has the largest. Mainshaft disassembly refer to figure 17. 1. Clean the assembled shaft in solvent. Dry all components with compressed air or let the assembly sit on rags ...

  • Page 191

    1. Install fourth gear (a, figure 19) onto the mainshaft, and slide it up against first gear. Make sure the engagement dogs on the gear face away from first gear. 2. Install a splined washer (b, figure 19) and a new snap ring (c). The flat side of the snap ring must face away from the splined washer...

  • Page 192

    2. If it is still installed, remove the middle drive gear (figure 23) from the countershaft. 3. Remove first gear, then remove fourth gear. 4. Remove the snap ring and the splined washer. 5. Remove the countershaft third gear. 6. At the opposite end of the countershaft (the short end), remove fifth ...

  • Page 193

    8. Install first gear (figure 30) so its flat side faces out. 9. Install the middle drive gear (figure 23) so its splines engage those on the countershaft. 10. Mesh both assembled transmission shafts to- gether with the middle driven gear (figure 31). Make sure all gears mate properly. Transmission ...

  • Page 194

    7. Inspect each shift fork groove (b, figure 36) for wear or damage. Replace the gear(s) if necessary. 8. Inspect the bearing (b, figure 35) in the middle driven gear. It should turn smoothly without rough- ness or binding. 9. Replace any washers that are worn. 10. Discard all snap rings and replace...

  • Page 195

    196 chapter seven 37 middle drive shaft assembly 38 39 1. Bearing retainer 2. Spring retainer 3. Spring seat 4. Damper spring 5. Damper cam (male) 6. Damper cam (female) 7. Middle drive shaft nut 8. Bearing 9. Middle drive shaft shims 10. Middle drive shaft.

  • Page 196

    2. Apply engine oil to the teeth of the middle drive shaft and install the middle drive shaft assembly into the crankcase. 3. Turn the bearing retainer (a, figure 40) until it is in place. 4. Using the bearing retainer wrench (figure 39), torque the bearing retainer to 110 n•m (81 ft.-lb.). 6. Stake...

  • Page 197

    4. Install the middle drive shaft holder (a, figure 42) onto the middle drive shaft and secure the holder in a vise. 5. Install the middle drive shaft nut wrench (b, fig- ure 42) onto the nut. 6. Install a torque wrench at 90° to the middle drive shaft nut wrench and torque the nut to 110 n•m (81 ft...

  • Page 198

    1. Remove the rear wheel and swing arm as de- scribed in chapter twelve. 2. Remove the bearing housing bolts (a, figure 45) from the middle driven shaft assembly. 3. Separate the universal joint as follows: a. Use a small screwdriver to drive the circlip (a, figure 46) from each side of the drive yo...

  • Page 199

    Socket, press the bearing from each side of the drive yoke. C. Remove the driven yoke (c, figure 46) from the drive yoke (b). 4. Hold the drive yoke with the universal joint holder (a, figure 48) and loosen the middle driven shaft nut (b). 5. Remove the universal joint holder, and remove the middle ...

  • Page 200

    6. Lubricate the splines of the middle driven shaft with lithium soap grease and slide the bearing hous- ing onto the shaft. 7. Seat the speed sensor bracket (c, figure 45), ro- tor (b) and the drive yoke on the bearing housing. 8. Lubricate a new o-ring with lithium soap grease and carefully roll t...

  • Page 201

    F. Turn the universal joint over and repeat substeps d-f for the opposite bearing. 15. Install the bearing housing bolts (a, figure 45) and secure the speed sensor bracket and bearing housing to the crankcase. Apply yamaha bond 1215 or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the bolts and torque the...

  • Page 202

    Chapter eight air/fuel, exhaust and emission control systems this chapter describes service procedures for the air/fuel, exhaust and emission control systems. Dur- ing inspection, compare measurements to the speci- fications in the tables at the end of this chapter. Replace any components that are w...

  • Page 203

    8. Raise the fuel tank bracket and support the tank. Pull the meter connector (b, figure 5) from be- neath the ignitor panel and disconnect the 14-pin meter connector (a, figure 6) from its harness mate. 9. On california models, disconnect the evap hose (b, figure 6) from the fitting on the fuel tan...

  • Page 204

    11. Pull the tank bracket rearward until the tank is free of the damper (a, figure 7) on each side of the frame. Remove the fuel tank. 12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Set the tank on the frame and route the meter assembly cable and hoses along the paths noted durin...

  • Page 205

    3. Drain the fuel from the tank into a clean, sealable container. 4. Position the tank so residual fuel will not spill from the tank when the fuel valve is removed. 5. Remove each fuel valve screw and washer (b, figure 3), and remove the valve and o-ring. 6. The packing and fuel valve seal are the o...

  • Page 206

    Leaks. If there is a leak, solve the problem be- fore installing the fuel tank. Air filter housing note air filter service is described in chap ter three. Removal/installation refer to figure 9. 1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Remove the fuel tank as described in this chap- te...

  • Page 207

    3. Remove the cover bolts (a, figure 10) and pull the air filter cover (b) from the housing. 4. Lift the air filter (a, figure 11) from the posts in the air filter housing. 5. Loosen the clamp (b, figure 11) that secures the surge tank duct to the back of the air filter housing. 6. Remove the air fi...

  • Page 208

    Inspection 1. Remove the plug (a, figure 15) from the drain hose on the air filter housing. Clean out accumu- lated moisture or dirt. If necessary, blow the hose clear with compressed air. 2. Inspect all components of the air filter housing assembly. Look closely for cracks or other damage that woul...

  • Page 209

    Installation 1. If removed, install the cylinder head breather hose (figure 20) onto the surge tank fitting so the dots on the hose face forward. 2. Make sure the clamp (a, figure 19) on each car- buretor duct is loose and the carburetor breather hose (b) faces up. 3. Apply soap to the male fittings...

  • Page 210

    Carburetor operation the carburetor atomizes fuel and mixes it in cor- rect proportions with air that is drawn in through the air intake. At the primary throttle opening (idle), a small amount of fuel is siphoned through the pilot jet by the incoming air. When the throttle is opened further, the air...

  • Page 211

    From the carburetor bracket and disconnect the ca- ble ends from the throttle wheel. If necessary, turn the pull cable adjuster (c, figure 26) to create addi- tional slack. 12. Loosen the cable clamp screw (a, figure 27) and disconnect the choke cable end (b) from the choke linkage. 13. Move the thr...

  • Page 212

    D. Route the throttle cables and choke cable along their original paths. These cables must not be twisted, kinked or pinched. Secure the cables in the holder (b, figure 7). E. Connect each hose to the fitting noted during removal and route the hose along its original path. F. Adjust the throttle cab...

  • Page 213

    7. Remove the cotter pin (a, figure 35) and washer. Remove the throttle arm (b, figure 35) from the throttle shaft on the front carburetor. 8. Remove the mounting screw (a, figure 36) and lift the choke linkage (b) from the starter plunger on the rear carburetor. 9. Remove the front carburetor (c, f...

  • Page 214

    Air/fuel, exhaust and emission control systems 215 8 38 carburetor 1. Screw 2. Choke cable bracket 3. Top cover 4. Spring 5. Needle retainer 6. Jet needle 7. Vacuum piston 8. Pilot air jet no. 2 9. Choke linkage 10. Starter plunger 11. Carburetor body 12. Bracket bolt 13. Cover bracket 14. Coasting ...

  • Page 215

    4. If the carburetors were not separated, disconnect the carburetor heater wires by performing steps 1-4 in separation in this section. 5. Remove the top cover as follows: a. Remove the top cover screws (a, figure 41). B. When servicing the rear carburetor, remove the choke cable bracket (b, figure ...

  • Page 216

    11. Remove the carburetor heater (a, figure 48) and its washer from the bottom of the carburetor body. When servicing the rear carburetor, also re- move the heater ground terminal (b, figure 48). 12. Remove the mounting screws (a, figure 49) and lift the float bowl (b) from the carburetor body. Watc...

  • Page 217

    15. Remove the screw (a, figure 53) and pull the valve seat (b) from the carburetor body. 16. Remove the pilot jet (figure 54). 17. Remove the starter jet (figure 55) and spacer. 18. Remove the main jet (figure 56). 19. Remove the jet holder (figure 57) and o-ring. 20. Insert a finger into the carbu...

  • Page 218

    8. Install the float pin (b, figure 51) and secure it with the screw (a). 9. Install a new float bowl o-ring (figure 50) and set the float bowl onto the bottom of the carburetor (b, figure 49). Secure the float bowl in place with the mounting screws (a, figure 49). 10. Install the carburetor heater ...

  • Page 219

    18. If removed, install the starter plunger (b, fig- ure 39). 19. Assemble the coasting enricher, if it was disas- sembled, as follows: a. Install the coasting enricher diaphragm (b, figure 40) onto the carburetor (figure 62). B. Install the spring (a, figure 40) into the cen- ter of the diaphragm. ...

  • Page 220

    Replace any jet or holder if its holes cannot be unplugged. 5. Make sure all openings in the carburetor body are clear. Clean them out if they are plugged in any way. 6. Inspect the slide bore in the carburetor body. Make sure it is clean and free of any burrs or ob- structions that may cause the va...

  • Page 221

    14. If removed, inspect the pilot screw (figure 70) for wear or damage that may have occurred during removal. Replace the pilot screw in both carbure- tors even if only one requires replacement. This is necessary for correct pilot screw adjustment as de- scribed in this chapter. 15. Replace all o-ri...

  • Page 222

    Ble 1 provides the specification for fuel level, mea- sured from (figure 73) the upper edge of the float bowl with the carburetors mounted on the motorcy- cle. This measurement is more accurate than a float height measurement because the actual fuel level can vary between carburetors, even when the ...

  • Page 223

    Idle speed adjustment refer to chapter three. Throttle cable adjustment refer to chapter three. Throttle position sensor testing perform the following test procedure whenever the self-diagnostic system (see chapter nine) flashes a tps error (code 3). Perform the test in the listed sequence. Each ste...

  • Page 224

    B. Note the resistance while slowly opening the throttle. C. Replace the sensor if the r2 resistance is out- side the range specified in table 2. Adjustment adjust the throttle position sensor by turning the sensor until its resistance is within the specified range. Note the throttle position sensor...

  • Page 225

    3. Disconnect the four-pin harness connector from the carburetor heater relay and remove the relay. 4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Thermo switch test 1. Disconnect the two-pin thermo switch connector (b, figure 75) from its harness mate. Caution the thermo switch is sensitive to shock. D...

  • Page 226

    9. Turn the heat off and watch the continuity as the temperature decreases. A. While the temperature is above 12 ± 4° c (53 ± 7° f), there should be no continuity be- tween the switch terminals. B. When the temperature drops below 12 ± 4° c (53 ± 7° f), there should be continuity be- tween the switc...

  • Page 227

    Note the piece of string in the next step is used to pull the new throttle cable through the frame so the cable will be properly routed. 10. Tie a piece of heavy string or cord to the ends of the throttle cable at the carburetor. Wrap this end with tape. Do not use an excessive amount of tape. Too m...

  • Page 228

    2. Remove the fuel tank, air filter housing and the surge tank as described in this chapter. 3. Remove the neck covers (chapter fourteen). 4. Note how the choke cable is routed along the frame and through the fork legs. The new cable will have to follow the same path. 5. At the carburetor, loosen th...

  • Page 229

    B. Position the filter so its arrow points toward the fuel pump. C. Check the hose clamps for damage; replace them if necessary. D. After installation is complete, thoroughly check for leaks. Fuel pump removal/installation 1. Disconnect the electrical lead from the negative battery terminal. 2. Remo...

  • Page 230

    7. The fuel pump is faulty if fuel does not flow from the fuel pump outlet hose. Replace the fuel pump. Resistance test 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side as described in chapter fourteen. 2. Roll the boot from the connectors on the toolbox panel. 3. Disconnect the two...

  • Page 231

    232 chapter eight 95 air induction system 1. Vacuum hose (to rear cylinder intake manifold) 2. Orifice 3. Ais air filter 4. Air filter housing 5. Air cut valve 6. Reed valve 7. Housing 8. Bracket 9. Ais output hose 10. Ais pipe (to rear cylinder) 11. Ais pipe (to front cylinder) 12. Gasket.

  • Page 232

    1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side as described in chapter fourteen. 2. Release the hose clamp (figure 96) and discon- nect the ais pipe from its fitting on each cylinder head. 3. Release the clamp and disconnect the output hose (a, figure 97) on the ais valve from eac...

  • Page 233

    9. Replace any component that is worn, damaged or out of specification. Evaporative emission control (california models) all models sold in california are equipped with an evaporative emission control (evap) system, which reduces the amount of fuel vapors released into the atmosphere. The system con...

  • Page 234

    Air/fuel, exhaust and emission control systems 235 8 101 1. Fitting 2. Solenoid valve 3. Rollover valve 4. Clamp 5. Canister.

  • Page 235

    Canister removal/installation note the two ports on the top of the evap canister are identified as tank and carb. See figure 104. Label each hose before removal so they can be easily identified during assembly. 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side of the motorcycle. 2. L...

  • Page 236

    B. Disconnect the connector from the solenoid valve (b, figure 102). C. Connect the positive test lead of an ohmmeter to the brown terminal (a, figure 105) in the solenoid. Connect the negative test lead to the black terminal (b, figure 105). D. Replace the solenoid if the resistance is out- side th...

  • Page 237

    1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Loosen the muffler clamp screw (a, figure 107) on each muffler. 3. Remove the muffler hanger bolts (b, figure 107). 4. Pull the muffler assembly rearward. Separate each muffler from its respective exhaust pipe and remove the muffler assembly. Di...

  • Page 238

    C. Make sure each exhaust pipe is correctly seated in the exhaust port or exhaust mani- fold. D. Loosely install the entire exhaust system and finger-tighten the hardware. E. First, torque the exhaust pipe-to-cylinder head nuts (b, figure 110) and the exhaust manifold bolts (figure 108) to 20 n•m (1...

  • Page 239

    Table 1 carburetor specifications (continued) pilot screw europe and australia models 3 turns out valve seat size 1.2 starter jet g.S. 1 no. 42.5 g.S. 2 0.8 bypass 1 0.8 bypass 2 0.8 bypass 3 0.8 throttle valve size no. 125 fuel level 4-5 mm (0.16-0.20 in.) above float bowl mark idle speed 950-1050 ...

  • Page 240

    Chapter nine electrical system this chapter describes service procedures for the following electrical sub-systems and components: 1. Charging system. 2. Ignition system. 3. Lighting system. 4. Signal system. 5. Switches. 6. Self-diagnostic system. Battery and spark plug information is in chapter thr...

  • Page 241

    5. The ammeter should read less than 0.1 ma. If the amperage is greater, there is a current draw on the system that will discharge the battery. Charging voltage test 1. Connect an engine tachometer to the spark plug lead on the no. 1 (rear) cylinder. 2. Connect a 0-20 dc voltmeter to the battery ter...

  • Page 242

    Stator wires is shorted to ground. Replace the stator/pickup coil assembly. Stator/pickup coil assembly removal/installation refer to figure 6. The stator/pickup coil is an assembly. The stator and pickup coil are not available separately. 1. Remove the alternator cover as described in chapter five....

  • Page 243

    Vides longer component life and delivers a strong, reliable spark throughout the entire range of engine speed. Ignition timing and advance are maintained without adjustment. Ignition timing procedures given in chapter three can be used to determine if the ignition system is operating properly. When ...

  • Page 244

    Neutral switch and sidestand switch as described in this chapter. Precautions damage to the semiconductors in the system may occur if the following precautions are not observed. 1. Never connect the battery backwards. If the bat- tery polarity is incorrect, the voltage regulator, al- ternator and ig...

  • Page 245

    1. Securely support the motorcycle on level ground. 2. Remove the fuel tank, air filter housing and surge tank as described in chapter eight, and the re- move the frame neck cover (chapter fifteen). 3. Disconnect the electrical lead from the negative battery terminal (a, figure 1). 4. Disconnect the...

  • Page 246

    1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side as described in chapter fourteen. 2. Roll back the boot from the electrical cables. 3. Disconnect the two-pin pickup coil connector (b, figure 4) from its mate on the wiring harness. 4. If using an analog ohmmeter, set it to the r × 1...

  • Page 247

    A. Apply a dielectric compound to the electrical connectors prior to reconnecting them. B. Make sure the electrical connections are free of corrosion and are completely coupled to each other. C. Tighten the screws securely. D. Install all removed items. Starting system when the starter button is pre...

  • Page 248

    Removal/installation 1. Securely support the motorcycle on a level sur- face. 2. Make sure the main switch is off. 3. Disconnect the electrical lead from the negative battery terminal (a, figure 1). 4. Pull back the rubber boot and disconnect the ca- ble from the starter terminal (a, figure 16). 5. ...

  • Page 249

    4. Remove the front end cap (d, figure 17) from the housing and remove the locating key (figure 20). It could come out with the end cap or it could remain in the housing. 5. Lift each planetary gear (figure 21) from its post in the front end cap. 6. Remove the ring gear (figure 22). Note that its ma...

  • Page 250

    11. Remove the shims (a, figure 28) from the commutator end of the armature shaft. Record the number of shims and their locations. Store the shims in a marked plastic bag. 12. Pull the armature (figure 29) from the arma- ture housing. 13. Remove and discard the o-ring on each end of the armature hou...

  • Page 251

    Washer and the nut (figure 31). The number and or- der of the washers and shims varies. 16. Remove the brush holder assembly (figure 32) from the armature housing. 17. Remove the insulator (a, figure 33) from the brush holder assembly. 18. Separate the positive brush assembly (a, fig- ure 34), inclu...

  • Page 252

    A. Make sure an insulated portion of each posi- tive brush wire (figure 35) touches the brush holder. B. If bare wire from the positive brush touches the brush holder, disassemble the brush holder assembly and reassemble it properly. 7. Make sure the o-ring is installed on the terminal bolt, and ins...

  • Page 253

    16. Install the gear plate (figure 25) so its cutout engages the notch in the armature housing. Make sure the flat side faces out and seat the plate (a, fig- ure 40) in the armature housing. 17. Lubricate a new o-ring with lithium soap grease, and install it onto the armature housing (b, figure 40)....

  • Page 254

    3. Inspect the commutator copper bars for discolor- ation. If a pair of bars is discolored, armature coils are grounded. Replace the starter. 4. Measure the diameter of the commutator with a vernier caliper. Replace the starter if the commuta- tor diameter is less than the service limit specified in...

  • Page 255

    4. Lift the starting circuit cutoff relay (figure 47) from its tang and disconnect the 12-pin connector from the relay. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the electrical terminals are clean and pack the con- nector with dielectric grease. Sccr continuity test 1. Remove the starting...

  • Page 256

    Lay; connect the negative test lead to the re- lay’s blue/yellow terminal (b). The diode should have continuity. B. Reverse the connectors and check the conti- nuity. The diode should have no continuity when the positive test lead is connected to the blue/yellow terminal in the relay unit (b, fig- u...

  • Page 257

    The relay; connect the negative battery terminal to the blue terminal (b). 6. Connect the ohmmeter positive test lead to the red (c, figure 52) terminal in the relay; connect the negative test lead to the black terminal (d). The re- lay should have continuity. 7. Replace the starter relay if it fail...

  • Page 258

    Headlight housing removal/installation refer to figures 59-61. 1. Remove the mounting screw (figure 53) on ei- ther side of the headlight housing and lower the lens assembly from the housing. 2. Disconnect the headlight connector (a, figure 54) from the bulb and remove the lens assembly. 3. Disconne...

  • Page 259

    Xvs1100a models the horizontal adjuster is at 8 o’clock (b, figure 62) on the front of the headlight rim and the vertical adjuster is at 4 o’clock on the rim (c). 1. To adjust the beam to the right, turn the horizon- tal adjuster clockwise. To adjust the beam to the left, turn the adjuster countercl...

  • Page 260

    6. Remove the fuel tank (chapter eight) and dis- connect the meter assembly connector (figure 65) from its harness mate. 7. Connect the voltmeter positive test lead to the yellow terminal (a, figure 66) in the harness side of the connector; connect the voltmeter negative test probe to the black term...

  • Page 261

    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. A. Make sure the dampers are in place on each mount in the meter bracket. B. Torque the meter cover screws to 4 n•m (35 in.-lb.). Meter indicator light test if the meter illumination lights do not operate, perform the following test. 262 chapter nine headli...

  • Page 262

    1. Remove the meter assembly as described in this chapter. 2. Check the voltage in the illumination light cir- cuit as follows: a. Set a voltmeter to the 20 dc volt range. B. Connect the voltmeter positive test lead to the blue terminal (c, figure 66) in the harness side of the meter connector; conn...

  • Page 263

    264 chapter nine meter assembly 1. Screw 2. Washer 3. Trip meter button 4. Bezel 5. Guide 6. Meter 7. Harness 8. Clamp 9. Bulb 10. Meter cover 11. Nut 12. Damper 13. Meter bracket 14. Lockwasher 67 68 69.

  • Page 264

    Electrical system 265 9 70 71 taillight (xvs1100 models) 1. Reflector 2. Gasket 3. Bulb 4. Lens 5. Screw 6. Reflector 7. License plate bracket 8. Bolt 9. Taillight housing 10. Washer 11. Nut 12. Fender bracket 13. Taillight cable 72.

  • Page 265

    D. Remove the nut and washer, and lower the housing and its wiring from the fender. Watch for the collar on each stud. 3. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Apply a dielectric compound to the electrical connectors prior to reconnecting them. This will help seal out moistu...

  • Page 266

    Nect the voltmeter negative test lead to the harness side of the black bullet connector. E. Turn the main switch on. On models with a light switch, turn it on also. F. If the voltmeter does not read battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the taillight/brake light connector is faulty...

  • Page 267

    5. If the reading is less than battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the auxiliary light connectors is faulty and must be repaired. Signal system the signal system includes the horn, turn signal lights, brake light and indicator lights (except the high beam indicator, which is part...

  • Page 268

    A. Set a voltmeter to the dc 20 volt range. B. Backprobe the connector. Connect the volt- meter positive test lead to the pink horn termi- nal and connect the negative test lead to a good frame ground. See figure 80. C. Turn the main switch on and check the volt- age on the meter. It should read bat...

  • Page 269

    3. Turn the bulb (a, figure 84) counterclockwise and remove it. Install the new bulb and turn it clock- wise to lock it in place. 4. Make sure the gasket (b, figure 84) is in place on the housing. 5. Install the lens ring and lens. Do not overtighten the lens screws (a, figure 83), as this will crac...

  • Page 270

    2. Disconnect the headlight connector (a, figure 54) from the bulb and remove the lens assembly. 3. Disconnect the front turn signal bullet connec- tors (b, figure 54) for the affected turn signal. 4. Feed the turn signal wires out through the hole in the headlight housing. 5. Remove the nut from th...

  • Page 271

    D. Turn the main switch on and check the volt- age on the meter. If it does not read battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the flasher relay is faulty. Repair the wir- ing if input voltage is less than battery volt- age. E. Reconnect the connector to the relay. 3. Check the output ...

  • Page 272

    Note on usa, california and canada models, the flasher relay connector is a five pin connector. A three pin con nector is used on europe and austra lia models. 1. Remove the fuel tank, air filter housing and surge tank as described in chapter eight. 2. Remove the frame neck covers (chapter four- tee...

  • Page 273

    (c, figure 91). Connect the negative test probe to the black terminal (d). C. If the relay does not have continuity, replace the oil lamp level. 3. Check the oil level indicator wiring as follows: a. Remove the fuel tank (chapter eight) and disconnect the meter assembly connector (figure 87) from it...

  • Page 274

    7. Turn the main switch on and slowly rotate the rear wheel. 8. The speed sensor is operating properly if the voltage is 0-5 volts. A. If voltage is outside the specified range, re- place the speed sensor. B. If the voltage is between zero and 5 volts, re- place the ignitor unit. Switches switches c...

  • Page 275

    2. Remove the frame neck cover as described in chapter fourteen. 3. Disconnect the left handlebar switch white six-pin connector (a, figure 96) and the blue six-pin connector (b) from their harness mates. 4. Remove the mounting screw (figure 97) and re- move the bottom cover from the handlebar switc...

  • Page 276

    8. Disconnect the ends of the throttle cables from the throttle drum (a, figure 103), and remove the pull and return cables from the switch housing. 9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Apply lithium soap grease to the ends of the pull and return cables. B. The pin on th...

  • Page 277

    A. Apply a dielectric compound to the electrical connector prior to reconnecting it. B. Make sure the electrical connector is free of corrosion and both sides are completely cou- pled to each other. C. Install all items removed. D. When installing shear bolts, tighten the bolt until its head twists ...

  • Page 278

    2. Remove the switch screw (b, figure 108) and remove the switch from beneath the clutch lever. 3. Installation is the reverse of removal. Front brake switch replacement the front brake light switch is mounted beneath the front brake master cylinder. 1. Disconnect the spade connectors (a, figure 101...

  • Page 279

    Caution never substitute metal foil or wire for a fuse. Never use a higher amperage fuse than specified. An overload could result in fire and complete loss of the bike. Main fuse removal the 30-amp main fuse (a, figure 110) and a spare (b) are located on the starter relay. Access the main fuse as fo...

  • Page 280

    Table 1 electrical system specifications cylinder numbering rear cylinder is no. 1 battery model gt14b-4 capacity 12 v 12 ah open circuit voltage 12.8 v or greater @ 20° c (68° f) charging voltage (output voltage) 14 volts, 340 watts @ 5000 rpm stator coil resistance 0.36-44 ohms @ 20° c (68° f) vol...

  • Page 281

    Table 2 replacement bulbs (continued) item voltage/wattage meter light 14 v 1.4 w neutral indicator light 12 v 1.7 w high beam indicator light 12 v 1.7 w turn signal indicator light 12 v 1.7 w oil level warning light 12 v 1.7 w engine warning light 12 v 1.7 w table 3 fuses main 30 a headlight 15 a s...

  • Page 282

    Chapter ten wheel and tires this chapter describes repair and maintenance procedures for the wheels and tires. When inspect- ing any of the components described in this chapter, compare all measurements to the tire and wheel ser- vice specifications in the tables at the end of this chapter. Replace ...

  • Page 283

    Ence of the wheel so the rotor lies between the blocks and does not rest on them. Also protect the rotor when transporting a wheel to a dealership or tire specialist. Do not place a wheel in a car trunk or truck bed without protecting the rotor from side impact. If the rotor is knocked out of true b...

  • Page 284

    B. Check the bearing’s outer seal (a, figure 5) for buckling or other damage that would al- low dirt to enter the bearing. C. Check the bearing fit in the hub by trying to move the bearing laterally with your hand. The bearing should be tight in the bore. Loose bearings allow the wheel to wobble. If...

  • Page 285

    11. On laced wheels, check the spoke tension as described in this chapter. Bearing removal note the following procedure describes the use of the kowa seiki wheel bear ing remover shown in figure 8. This set is available from k & l supply co., in santa clara, ca. 1. Select the correct size remover he...

  • Page 286

    3. Pack the open side of each bearing with grease. 4a. Install rear hub bearings as follows: a. Position the left inner bearing with the manu- facturer’s marks facing out and place the bearing squarely on the bore opening on the left side of the hub. Select a bearing driver (figure 12) or socket wit...

  • Page 287

    Is still centered within the bearing, install the axle partway through the hub and center the spacer. Remove the axle and continue install- ing the bearing until it bottoms. 5. Reassemble the hub as described in this chapter. Front wheel refer to figure 15. Removal 1. Securely support the motorcycle...

  • Page 288

    Verely worn bearings, there will be play even though the wheel is locked in position. C. Spin the wheel and listen for excessive wheel bearing noise. Grinding or catching noises in- dicate worn bearings. D. If either bearing is worn or damage, replace both wheel bearings as a set. Refer to the hub d...

  • Page 289

    Installation 1. Make sure the axle and the axle bearing surfaces of the fork sliders are free of burrs and nicks. 2. Lubricate the axle with lithium soap grease. 3. Apply a light coat of lithium soap grease to the lips of the oil seal in one side of the hub (b, figure 19) and install the collar (a)....

  • Page 290

    4. Remove the brake disc bolts (c, figure 3). Lift the hub plate and brake disc from the hub. Repeat this on the opposite side. 5. Pry the seal (figure 20) from each side of the hub. Place a shop rag beneath the pry tool so the hub will not be damaged. 6. Inspect the bearings as described in wheel i...

  • Page 291

    7. Remove the rear axle clamp bolts (b, figure 23) and pull the rear axle clamp from the swing arm. Notice the dot (figure 24) on the clamp. The clamp must be reinstalled with the dot facing up. 8. Remove the final gearcase bolts (a, figure 25) and their washers. 9. Remove the axle nut (b, figure 25...

  • Page 292

    3. If removed, install the stepped collar (figure 31) into the right side of the hub. Make sure the shoul- dered side of the collar faces out. 4. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the splines of the driveshaft (figure 32) and the univer- sal joint (figure 33). 5. Roll the rear wheel into position...

  • Page 293

    13. Evenly tighten all the hardware. Torque the hardware to the following specifications in their given order: a. Final gearcase bolts (a, figure 25): 90 n•m (66 ft.-lb.). B. Axle nut (b, figure 25): 107 n•m (79 ft.-lb.). C. Axle clamp nuts (b, figure 23): 23 n•m (17 ft.-lb.). D. Rear caliper bracke...

  • Page 294

    Cannot be reused. Remove wheel bearings only if they must be re placed. 1. Remove the rear wheel as described in this chap- ter. 2. The condition of the rear wheel bearings is criti- cal to the tracking and acceleration performance of the motorcycle. Check the wheel bearings when- ever the wheel is ...

  • Page 295

    B. Install new o-rings. Lubricate the new o-rings with lithium soap grease and install them into the hub. C. Install the clutch hub onto the damper studs and install two new lockplates (b, figure 36). D. Install and evenly tighten the nuts. E. Torque the nuts to 62 n•m (45 ft.-lb.) and bend a lockta...

  • Page 296

    2. Nipple condition—when truing a wheel, the nipple should turn freely on the spoke. It is common for the spoke threads to become corroded and make turning the nipple difficult. Spray a penetrating liq- uid onto the nipple and allow sufficient time for it to penetrate. Use a spoke wrench and work th...

  • Page 297

    For example, tighten the spoke(s) on the left of the rim and loosen the opposite spoke(s) on the right. Note the number of spokes to loosen and tighten will depend on the amount of runout. As a minimum, always adjust two or three spokes in the vicinity of the rim runout. If runout affects a greater ...

  • Page 298

    1. Remove the wheel as described in this chapter. 2. Make sure the valve stem and the valve cap are tight. 3. Mount the wheel on a stand such as the one shown in figure 47 so it can rotate freely. 4. Check the wheel runout as described in this chapter. Do not try to balance a wheel with exces- sive ...

  • Page 299

    Another 1/4 turn, another 1/4 turn, and another to see if the wheel is correctly balanced. 10. Remove the test weight and install the correct weight. A. On wire spoke wheels, firmly crimp the bal- ance weight onto the spoke(s) with a pair of pliers (figure 48). B. On cast spoke wheels, crimp the bal...

  • Page 300

    Tire, prying the bead over the rim with the first tool. Be careful not to pinch the inner tube with the tire irons. 8. When the upper bead is off the rim, remove the nut from the valve stem. Remove the valve from the hole in the rim and remove the tube from the tire (figure 53). Note step 9 is requi...

  • Page 301

    8. Lubricate the upper tire bead and rim with soapy water. 9. Press the upper bead into the rim opposite the valve stem. Pry the bead into the rim on both sides of this initial point with your hands and work around the rim to the valve stem. If the tire pulls up on one side, either use a tire iron o...

  • Page 302

    Inspection 1. Remove and inspect the rubber rim band. Re- place the band if it is deteriorated or broken. 2. Clean the inner and outer rim surfaces of all dirt, rust, corrosion and rubber residue. 3. Inspect the valve stem hole in the rim. Remove any dirt or corrosion from the hole. 4. Inspect the r...

  • Page 303

    Ing surface. Breaking the bead seal may require the use of a bead breaker (figure 61). Do not scratch the inside of the rim or damage the tire bead. 3. Press the entire bead on both sides of the tire into the center of the rim. 4. Lubricate the beads with soapy water. Note use rim protectors (figure...

  • Page 304

    2. A new tire may have balancing rubbers inside. These are not patches and should not be disturbed. 3. Manufacturers place a colored spot near the bead, indicateing a lighter point on the tire. Install the tires so this balance mark (either the manufac- turer’s or the one made during removal) sits o...

  • Page 305

    Table 1 wheel specifications wheel size front xvs1100 18 × 2.15 xvs1100a 16 × 3.00 rear 15m/c × mt4.50 wheel runout service limit axial 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) radial 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) brake disc deflection 0.15 mm (0.006 in.) table 2 tire specifications xvs1100 models front tire size 110/90-18 61s manufa...

  • Page 306

    Table 4 wheel torque specifications item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Brake disc bolts* 23 – 17 brake hose holder bolt 7 62 – final gear clutch hub nuts 62 – 45 final gearcase bolts 90 – 66 front brake caliper mounting bolt 40 – 30 front caliper retaining bolt 1999-on xvs1100 models 23 – 17 all models except...

  • Page 307

    Chapter eleven front suspension and steering this chapter described the service procedures for the handlebar, front fork and steering components. When inspecting components, compare any mea- surements to the specifications in the tables at the end of this chapter. Replace any component that is worn,...

  • Page 308

    Front suspension and steering 309 11 1 1. Clamp bolt 2. Upper fork bridge 3. Lower fork bridge 4. Front turn signal 5. Front fender 6. Fender bolt 7. Fork leg 8. Fork leg protector 9. Washer 10. Collar 11. Nut fork assembly (xvs1100 models).

  • Page 309

    310 chapter eleven 2 fork assembly (xvs1100a models) 1. Upper fork bridge/handlebar assembly 2. Clamp bolt 3. Upper fork cover 4. Upper fork cover spacer 5. Upper fork cover washer 6. Lower fork bridge 7. Front fender 8. Lower fork cover 9. Fender bolt 10. Fork leg.

  • Page 310

    Using the wood, bleeding the brake will not be necessary when installing the wheel. 3. Remove the front fender as described in chapter fourteen. 4. Note that the edge of the fork tube aligns with the top of the upper fork bridge (figure 3). The fork leg must be reinstalled to the same height during ...

  • Page 311

    Brake master cylinder from the handlebar. Suspend the master cylinder from the motor- cycle with a bunjee cord. Keep the master cyl- inder reservoir upright. This prevents brake fluid spills and helps keep air out of the brake system. Do not disconnect the hydraulic brake line. C. On models with a w...

  • Page 312

    Removal/disassembly (fork leg requires service) 1. The following yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to service a fork leg: a. Damper rod holder: part no. Ym-1300-1 or 90890-01426. B. T-handle: part no. Ym-01326 or 90890-01326. C. Fork seal driver: yamaha part no. Ym-33963 or 9080...

  • Page 313

    4. On xvs1100a models, remove the fuel tank (chapter eight). 5. Note that the top of the fork tube aligns with the top of the upper fork bridge (figure 3). The fork leg must be reinstalled in this same position. 6. Remove any cable ties or holders that secure a brake, clutch or electrical line to a ...

  • Page 314

    On the slider using quick in-and-out strokes (figure 17), and pull the slider off the fork tube (figure 18). 13. Pour any excess oil from the slider. Invert the slider and remove the oil lock piece. 14a. On xvs1100 models, perform the following: a. Loosen the front flasher clamp bolt. Note on xvs110...

  • Page 315

    G. Remove the index pin (a, figure 10), upper fork cover spacer (b) and washer (c). H. Loosen the two clamp bolts (a, figure 5) on the lower fork bridge. Rotate the fork tube (b, figure 5), and lower it from the lower fork bridge and the lower fork cover. Take the fork tube to the bench for further ...

  • Page 316

    3. Install the washer (c, figure 10), upper fork cover spacer (b) and the index pin (a). 4. Rotate the fork leg and install it (b, figure 5) through the lower fork cover and the lower fork bridge. Tighten the lower fork bridge clamp bolts (a, figure 5) enough to hold the fork leg in place. Note the ...

  • Page 317

    5. Install the fork tube into the slider until the tube bottoms. 6. Install the yamaha damper rod holder onto the t-handle. Insert the tool into the fork tube so the rod holder engages the damper rod (figure 13). 7. Slide a new copper washer onto the allen bolt (figure 23). 8. Apply a medium-strengt...

  • Page 318

    12. Wrap the end of the fork tube with plastic wrap. Liberally coat the plastic wrap with fork oil. 13. Lubricate the lips of the oil seal with fork oil and install the oil seal onto the fork tube (c, figure 20). Make sure the side with the manufacturer’s marks faces up, away from the fork slider. 1...

  • Page 319

    26. Install the fork cap while pushing down on the spring. Start the bolt slowly; do not cross-thread it. Tighten the fork cap as tightly as possible. The cap bolt will be torqued to specification once the fork is installed on the motorcycle. 27. Install the fork leg as described earlier in this cha...

  • Page 320

    A. Open the bushing slot with a screwdriver (figure 38) and slide the bushing off the fork tube. B. Lubricate the new bushing with fork oil, open its slot and slide it onto the fork tube groove. 12. Replace the fork cap o-ring (figure 32). Lu- bricate the o-ring with fork oil before installation. 13...

  • Page 321

    Provide maximum slack in the cable and disconnect the cable end from the clutch hand lever. 8. Disconnect the electrical lead (c, figure 40) from the clutch switch. 9. Remove the clutch lever nuts and bolts (d, fig- ure 40), and remove the clutch lever assembly. 10. Remove the caps (a, figure 41), t...

  • Page 322

    L. Torque the clamp bolts (a, figure 39) to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). Tighten the upper clamp bolt first, then the lower bolt. There should be a gap at the lower part of the clamp after tight- ening. Inspection check the handlebar along the entire mounting area for cracks or damage. Replace a bent or dam...

  • Page 323

    324 chapter eleven 45 steering head 1. Cap 2. Bolt 3. Upper handlebar holder 4. Lower handlebar holder 5. Washer 6. Damper 7. Cable holder 8. Nut 9. Steering head nut 10. Upper fork bridge 11. Lockwasher 12. Locking ring nut 13. Adjusting ring nut 14. Bearing cap 15. Bearing 16. Dust seal 17. Headli...

  • Page 324

    10. Hold onto the lower end of the steering stem as- sembly. 11. Loosen and remove the adjusting ring nut (a, figure 50) and the bearing cap (b). 12. Remove the upper bearing inner race (a, fig- ure 51) and the bearing (b) from the steering head. 13. Lower the steering stem assembly down and out of ...

  • Page 325

    Installation 1. Liberally apply lithium soap grease to the bear- ings and races. 2. Install a new dust seal and the lower bearing onto the steering stem. 3. Carefully slide the steering stem up through the frame steering head (figure 52). 4. Install the upper bearing (b, figure 51) and the bearing i...

  • Page 326

    Inspection 1. Clean the upper and lower bearings in a bearing degreaser. Thoroughly dry both bearings with com- pressed air. Make sure all solvent is removed from the lower bearing installed on the steering stem (figure 52). 2. Wipe the old grease from the outer races located in the steering head (f...

  • Page 327

    4. Clean the race seats in the steering head. Check for cracks or other damage. 5. Apply grease to a new upper race and insert the race into the steering head with the open side facing out. Square the race with the race bore. Tap it slowly and squarely with a block of wood (figure 57). Lower bearing...

  • Page 328

    Table 1 front suspension specifications item specification fork oil viscosity sae 10w fork oil capacity per leg 464 cc (15.7 u.S. Oz [16.3 imp. Oz.]) oil level (measured from top of the fully compressed fork tube with the fork spring removed) 108 mm (4.25 in.) front fork travel 140 mm (5.51 in.) fro...

  • Page 329

    Chapter twelve rear suspension and final drive this chapter includes repair procedures for ser- vicing the rear shock absorber and swing arm as well as the drive shaft and the final drive. When inspecting rear suspension and final drive components, compare any measurements to the specifications in t...

  • Page 330

    Rear suspension and final drive 331 12 1 shock absorber and swing arm 1. Swing arm 2. Stud 3. Clamp 4. Nut 5. Bearing 6. Boot 7. Washer 8. Bolt 9. Collar 10. Pivot bolt 11. Thrust cover 12. Washer 13. Collar 14. Shock bolt 15. Shock absorber 16. Nut 17. Connecting arm bolt 18. Connecting arm 19. Was...

  • Page 331

    A. Install the shock absorber with the preload adjuster indicator facing the direction noted during removal. B. Install the shock absorber upper bolt (a, fig- ure 3) from the right side. Make sure the bolt engages the receiver (b, figure 3) on the frame. Install the upper nut from the left side. C. ...

  • Page 332

    2. On the left side, remove the nut (a, figure 6) and washer from the upper and lower connecting arm bolts. 3. Remove each connecting arm bolt and lower the connecting arms (b, figure 6) from the motorcycle. 4. Remove the nut from the relay arm bolt (c, fig- ure 2). 5. Pull the relay arm bolt from t...

  • Page 333

    Needle bearing replacement 1. Use a blind bearing remover to remove each bearing from the middle mount (c, figure 8) on the relay arm. Follow the instructions from the tool’s manufacturer. 2. Use a hydraulic press to remove a needle bearing from the front and rear relay mounts (b and d, fig- ure 8)....

  • Page 334

    4. Note the location of any clamps (a, figure 12) or cable ties that secure wires or the brake line to the swing arm. Release the lines from the clamps and suspend the rear brake caliper safely out of the way. Note the swing arm pivot bolt threads into the swing arm. It does not go all the way throu...

  • Page 335

    4. Lubricate the collar (a, figure 16) with molyb- denum disulfide grease and install the collar into the pivot bearings. 5. Repeat step 2, and install the thrust cover (fig- ure 15) onto the frame pivot on the left side. 6. Raise the swing arm into position so its pivots are opposite the frame pivo...

  • Page 336

    Ment in this chapter. Install each swing arm bearing so it sits flush with the outside edge of the bearing bore. 6. Repeat step 5 and inspect the swing arm bearing (b, figure 16) in each side of the frame pivot. 7. Inspect the thrust cover (b, figure 17) and washer (a) from each side of the frame pi...

  • Page 337

    5. Check the operation of the final gear assembly by rotating the drive shaft. The shaft should turn smoothly and should transfer motion through the pinion gear assembly to the ring gear. 6. Drain the final gearcase oil as described in chap- ter three. Check the oil for metal particles. Small amount...

  • Page 338

    Rear suspension and final drive 339 12.

  • Page 339

    5. Inspect the splines of the drive shaft for wear or damage. Replace the drive shaft as necessary. 6. If necessary, remove the snap ring (c, figure 29), and slide the cover (d) and its dust seal from the drive shaft. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. A. Use a new snap ring when installing ...

  • Page 340

    3. Remove the ring gear shim(s). Note the number of shims. 4. Remove the ring gear assembly and remove the thrust washer. 5. Ring gear shims and thrust washers are available in several sizes. See figure 33. 6. Adjust gear lash by adding or removing ring gear shims as necessary to increase or decreas...

  • Page 341

    B. Bearing retainer wrench: part no. Ym-33214 or 90890-04077. C. Crankshaft installer bolt adapter: part no. Ym-90069 or 90890-91277. D. Armature shock puller (slide hammer): part no. Yu- 1047-3 or 90890-01290. E. Weight: part no. Yu-1047-4 or 90890-01291. 2. Remove the drive shaft from the final ge...

  • Page 342

    3. Install the bearing retainer with a new o-ring and new oil seal. Use lithium soap grease to pack the lips of the oil seal and to lubricate the o-ring. 4. Use the yamaha bearing retainer wrench to torque the bearing retainer to 115 n•m (85 ft.-lb.). Turn the bearing retainer counterclockwise to ti...

  • Page 343

    F. If the thrust clearance is outside the range specified in table 1, refer to figure 33 and select a suitable thrust washer. Measure the thrust washer clearance with the new thrust washer. Repeat this process until the thrust washer clearance is within specification. Gearcase bearing replacement re...

  • Page 344

    6. Use a drift to tap around the circumference of the pinion gear bearing (figure 39) and drive the race from the its boss in the gearcase. Installation 1. Place the new ring gear bearing and the new pin- ion gear bearing outer race in a freezer overnight. 2. Heat the final gearcase to 150° c (302° ...

  • Page 345

    Ring gear shim thickness selection calculate the ring gear shim thickness using the following formula: ring gear shim thickness = (c + d) – [(35.40 + or - e/100) + f]. C = the number on the final gearcase (b, figure 41). D = the number on the bearing housing (c, fig- ure 41). E = the number on the r...

  • Page 346

    Table 2 rear suspension and final drive torque specifications item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Bearing retainer 115 – 85 connecting arm nut 48 – 35 final gearcase bolt 90 – 66 final gearcase cover nuts 42 – 31 final gearcase drain bolt 23 – 17 final gearcase filler bolt 23 – 17 final gearcase mounting stud ...

  • Page 347

    Chapter thirteen brakes the brake system on all models consists of dual front disc brakes and a single disc brake in the rear. This chapter describes the service procedures for brake system components. When inspecting brake components, compare any measurements to the brake system specifications at t...

  • Page 348

    Fluid can damage these brake compo nents leading to brake system failure. Caution never reuse brake fluid (like the fluid expelled during brake bleeding). Contaminated brake fluid can cause brake failure. 5. Always keep the master cylinder reservoir cover installed to keep dust or moisture out of th...

  • Page 349

    3. Replace a bleed valve with damaged threads or with a rounded hex head. A damaged valve is diffi- cult to remove and it cannot be properly tightened. Note the catch hose (figure 2) is the hose installed between the bleed valve and the catch bottle. 4. Use a clear catch hose so the fluid can be vis...

  • Page 350

    Voir top so air will not be drawn into the system. 9. Repeat steps 6-8 until the brake fluid flowing from the hose is clear and free of air. If the system is difficult to bleed, tap the master cylinder or caliper with a soft mallet to release trapped air bubbles. 10. Test the feel of the brake lever...

  • Page 351

    8. Use a wrench to open the bleed valve. The vac- uum pump should pull fluid from the system. Close the bleed valve before the brake fluid stops flowing from the system or before the master cylinder reser- voir runs empty. Add fluid to the reservoir as neces- sary. 9. Operate the brake lever or brak...

  • Page 352

    Vacuum draining a hand-operated vacuum pump is required when performing this procedure. 1. Connect the pump’s catch hose to the bleed valve on the brake caliper (figure 3). 2. Operate the vacuum pump to create vacuum in the hose. 3. Use a wrench to open the bleed valve. The vac- uum pump should pull...

  • Page 353

    D. Use a bunjee cord to suspend the caliper from the motorcycle. 3b. On 2001-on xvs1100 models and all xvs1100a models, remove the two retaining bolts (a and b, figure 6). Lift the caliper from the pad holder. Suspend it from the motorcycle with a bunjee cord. 4. Remove the outboard brake pad (a, fi...

  • Page 354

    The next step. Excess grease could contaminate the brake pads. Do not get any grease on the brake pads. 11a. On 1999-2000 xvs1100 models, perform the following: a. Lubricate the caliper pin (a, figure 7) with lithium soap grease. B. Insert the caliper pin into the pivot (b, figure 8) in the pad hold...

  • Page 355

    The side with the longer tang (figure 16) points in the direction of forward wheel rotation. The spring must be installed with this same orientation during assembly. 5. Remove the inboard brake pad (figure 17) and the outboard pad (figure 18) from the caliper. 6. Inspect the brake pads as described ...

  • Page 356

    11. Slide the finger of the pad spring under the re- taining pin (b, figure 14) and seat the pad spring in the caliper. 12. Press the lower spring finger into the caliper and install the lower retaining pin (a, figure 14). The pin must pass through the outboard pad, over the spring finger and throug...

  • Page 357

    Wear. If the pads are wearing unevenly, the caliper may not be operating correctly. C. Measure the thickness of the friction material with a vernier caliper. Replace both brake pads if the thickness on either pad equals or is less than the service limit listed in table 1 or table 2. When servicing t...

  • Page 358

    Brakes 359 13 24 front brake caliper 1. Pad holder 2. Caliper mounting bolt 3. Boot 4. Caliper (2001-on xvs1100 models, all xvs1100a models) 5. Cap 6. Bleed valve 7. Retaining bolt 8. Brake pad 9. Pad spring 10. Piston 11. Dust seat 12. Piston seal 13. Caliper pin (1999-2000 xvs1100 models) 14. Boot...

  • Page 359

    6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts (a, figure 26) and lower the pad holder (b) from the fork slider. 7. Disassemble and inspect the caliper as described in this chapter. Installation 1. Set the pad holder (b, figure 26) into place on the fork slider and secure the holder with the caliper mounting ...

  • Page 360

    Caution in the following step, do not use a sharp tool to remove the dust and pis ton seals from the caliper cylinder. Sharp tools could damage the cylin der surface. The caliper will have to be replaced if the cylinder surface is damaged. 4. Use a piece of plastic or wood to carefully re- move the ...

  • Page 361

    4. Measure the inside diameter of each cylinder bore with a bore gauge (figure 33). Replace the brake caliper if the inside diameter of either bore exceeds the specification in table 1 or table 2. 5. Inspect the pistons (figure 34) for scratches, scoring or other damage. If they are rusty or cor- ro...

  • Page 362

    Wash spilled brake fluid off any painted or plated surfaces immedi ately. Brake fluid will damage the fin ish. Use soapy water and rinse the area completely. 1. Drain the master cylinder as described earlier in this chapter. 2. Remove the electrical connector from the brake switch (a, figure 37) on ...

  • Page 363

    364 chapter thirteen 40 master cylinder 1. Screw 2. Reservoir cap 3. Gasket 4. Diaphragm 5. Blow-back baffle 6. Boot 7. Snap ring 8. Secondary cup 9. Piston 10. Washer 11. Primary cup 12. Spring seat 13. Spring 14. Reservoir body 15. Banjo bolt 16. Copper washer 17. Brake hose 18. Banjo bolt 19. Cla...

  • Page 364

    Disassembly refer to figure 40. 1. Remove the master cylinder as described in this chapter. 2. Remove the reservoir cap, diaphragm plate and diaphragm. Pour out and discard any the remaining brake fluid. Never reuse brake fluid. 3. Remove the nut (figure 41) from the lever bolt remove the bolt. 4. C...

  • Page 365

    The cylinder bore. Make sure the master piston as- sembly is oriented as shown in figure 45. 3. Press the piston into the bore and secure it in place with a new snap ring (b, figure 45). The snap ring must be seated in the groove inside the cylinder bore as shown in figure 44. 4. Lubricate the boot ...

  • Page 366

    5. Check the end of the piston (b, figure 46) for wear. 6. Check the primary cup (d, figure 46) and sec- ondary cup (e) on the master piston for damage, softness or swelling. 7. Check the end of the adjuster screw (a, figure 50) for signs of wear. Replace the screw if neces- sary. 8. Remove and insp...

  • Page 367

    368 chapter thirteen 53 rear brake caliper 1. Piston seal 2. Dust seal 3. Piston 4. Brake pad 5. Bracket bolt 6. Washer 7. Caliper bracket 8. Caliper mounting bolt 9. Caliper 10. Bleed valve 11. Cap 12. Pad cover 13. Pad spring 14. Pad pin 15. Clip.

  • Page 368

    Installation 1. Lower the caliper over the brake disc and seat it on the caliper bracket. 2. Install the caliper mounting bolts (c, figure 55). Apply a medium-strength threadlocking compound to the bolt threads and torque the caliper mounting bolts to 40 n•m (30 ft.-lb.). 3. Install the brake pads a...

  • Page 369

    7. Remove the outboard piston from the caliper. Label the piston so it can be reinstalled in its origi- nal location. Caution in the following step, do not use a sharp tool to remove the dust and pis ton seals from the caliper cylinder. Sharp tools could damage the cylin der surface. The caliper wil...

  • Page 370

    Rear brake master cylinder removal 1. Drain the brake fluid from the rear brakes as de- scribed in this chapter. Note the master cylinder can be removed while the brake pedal/footrest assem bly is installed on the motorcycle. However, this is a very time consum ing process. The master cylinder parts...

  • Page 371

    372 chapter thirteen 62 rear master cylinder 1. Cap 2. Diaphragm plate 3. Diaphragm 4. Reservoir 5. Reservoir cover 6. Bolt 7. Clamp 8. Reservoir hose 9. Clevis pin 10. Nut 11. Clevis 12. Washer 13. Cotter pin 14. Locknut 15. Adjuster 16. Boot 17. Snap ring 18. Push rod 19. Secondary cup 20. Piston ...

  • Page 372

    Able. Coat the inside of the cylinder with fresh brake fluid prior to assembling the parts. 1b. When installing a new master cylinder kit, soak the new primary and secondary cups in brake fluid for at least 15 minutes. Roll the primary cup (a, figure 67) onto the inboard end of the piston; roll the ...

  • Page 373

    5. Install the snap ring (b, figure 68) so it is com- pletely seated in its groove in the master cylinder. 6. Check the operation of the master cylinder and slide the dust boot (figure 64) into position. Make sure it is firmly seated against the master cylinder. 7. Install the master cylinder as des...

  • Page 374

    14. Inspect the reservoir and hose for cracks, wear or other signs of damage. Replace as necessary. Brake pedal/footrest assembly removal the rear brake master cylinder and reservoir come out with the brake pedal assembly. 1. Drain the brake fluid from the rear brakes as de- scribed in this chapter....

  • Page 375

    Brake lever aligns with the mark on the pedal shaft (b, figure 78). If these marks are not visible, make new ones. D. Slide the brake lever from the brake pedal shaft. E. Pull the return spring from the brake lever shaft. F. Slide the brake pedal from the footrest bracket. Installation 1. If the bra...

  • Page 376

    Thickness in any area is equal to or less than the ser- vice limit specified in table 1 or table 2. 3. Check the disc runout as follows: a. Make sure the disc mounting bolts are tight prior to running this check. B. Mount a dial indicator so its plunger sits 2-3 mm (0.09-0.12 in.) from the outside d...

  • Page 377

    378 chapter thirteen 82 front brake hose 1. Copper washer 2. Banjo bolt 3. Boot 4. Nut 5. Brake pipe 6. Brake hose 7. Union bracket 8. Bolt 9. Brake hose 10. Brake union 11. Bolt 1999-2000 xvs1100 models 2001-on xvs1100 models and all xvs1100a models.

  • Page 378

    D. Evenly tighten the brake disc bolts in a criss- cross pattern. Torque the bolts to 23 n•m (17 ft.-lb.). Brake hose replacement check the brake hoses at the brake system inspec- tion intervals listed in chapter three. Replace any brake hose that is cracked, bulging or shows signs of chafing, wear ...

  • Page 379

    Table 1 front brake specifications item specification mm (in.) service limit mm (in.) brake pad thickness 6.2 (0.24) 0.8 (0.03) brake disc thickness 5.0 (0.2) 4.5 (0.177) brake disc outside diameter 298 (11.73) – brake disc runout – 0.15 (0.0059) caliper cylinder bore inside diameters 25.4 (1.0) – 3...

  • Page 380

    Chapter fourteen frame seats removal/installation refer to figure 1. 1. Remove the passenger seat nut (a, figure 2) from the fender stud. 2. Pull the passenger seat rearward (b, figure 2) until the seat tang disengages from the seat bracket (a, figure 3), and remove the passenger seat. 3. On xvs1100...

  • Page 381

    382 chapter fourteen fuel tank and seats 1. Fuel tank 2. Fuel hose 3. Fuel tank bolt 4. Rider’s seat 5. Seat bracket 6. Seat bracket bolt 7. Passenger seat 8. Nut 9. Meter connector 1 2 3.

  • Page 382

    C. Push the center pin into the head. The fastener is locked when the pin is flush with the head. See a, figure 7. Left side cover removal/installation the left side cover is secured in place by six allen bolts: two 6 × 54 mm bolts (a, figure 8) and four 6 × 25 mm bolts (b). A grommet, collar and wa...

  • Page 383

    3. During installation, press the cover until the slot on the top left edge engages the grommet, then turn the key counterclockwise. Toolbox panel removal/installation refer to figure 10. Caution several hoses are disconnected from various fittings during this procedure. Label each hose and its fitt...

  • Page 384

    Frame 385 14 toolbox panel 1. Toolbox panel 2. Toolbox panel bolt 3. Side cover 4. Fuel hose 5. Tool kit 6. Hose bracket 7. Toolbox cover 10 11 12.

  • Page 385

    4. Install the cover as follows: a. Position the cover so the slots on the cover’s rear side align with their respective grommets on the frame. B. Press the cover into the frame until the cover securely engages these grommets. C. Torque the battery cover bolt to 7 n•m (62 in.-lb.). Right side cover ...

  • Page 386

    3. Remove the battery box bolts (a, figure 20). 4. Remove the battery box screws (b, figure 20 and figure 16). 5. Move the battery box (c, figure 20) to the side, and suspend it from the frame with a bunjee cord. 6. If the battery box must be completely removed, disconnect the connector (figure 21) ...

  • Page 387

    6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Set each neck cover into place on the frame. Make sure the top edges of the covers are properly mated. B. Once both covers are properly in place, install the neck cover screws (figure 23) and the fuel tank grommets (a, figure 22). Rid...

  • Page 388

    1b. Remove the shift pedal/footrest assembly as described in chapter seven. 2. Remove the circlip from the pivot pin. 3. Pull the pivot pin from the floorboard and sepa- rate the floorboard from the bracket. Watch for the spring. 4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following. A. Make...

  • Page 389

    3. Remove the pivot bolt and washer. 4. Separate the sidestand from the bracket. Do not lose the collar from the bracket boss. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Apply a light coat of lithium soap grease to the pivot surfaces of mounting bracket and sidestand. B. Make ...

  • Page 390

    B. Torque the front fender bolts to 10 n•m (89 in.-lb.). Rear fender refer to figure 30. Removal 1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, the bat- tery cover, the toolbox cover and ignitor panel as described in this chapter. Frame 391 14 front fender 1. Front fender 2. Fender bolt 3. Reflector brack...

  • Page 391

    392 chapter fourteen rear fender 1. Fender bolt 2. Fender bracket 3. Rear fender 4. Nut 30 xvs1100 models xvs1100a models 5. Taillight/brake light assembly 6. Screw 7. Push pin 8. Mud guard.

  • Page 392

    2. Remove the push pins (c, figure 7) from each side of the mud guard (d) and lift the mud guard from the fender. 3. Disconnect the five-pin taillight/brake light con- nector (a, figure 31) from its harness mate. Note how the wire is routed through the back of the frame. It will have to be rerouted ...

  • Page 393

    Table 1 frame and body torque specifications item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Battery cover bolt 7 62 – front fender bolts 10 89 – passenger footpeg bolts 26 – 19 passenger seat nut 7 62 – rear fender bolts 26 – 19 seat bracket bolts 7 62 – side cover bolt 7 62 – sidestand bracket bolts 64 – 47 sidestand nu...

  • Page 394: Index

    Index a air filter housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207-209 induction system . . . . . . . . . . . . 231-234 alternator cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139-142 b battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73-76, 84 box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386-387 cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....

  • Page 395

    400 wiring diagrams headlight horn switch left front turn signal & running light right front turn signal & running light starter switch ignition switch engine stop switch headlight dimmer switch trip switch turn signal switch clutch switch carb. Heater fuse (15a) signal fuse (10a) headlight fuse (15...

  • Page 396

    Wiring diagrams 401 16 ac magneto battery starter relay main fuse odometer fuse (5a) starter motor spark plugs rear brake switch neutral switch oil level switch rectifier/ regulator starting circuit cutoff relay fuel pump speed sensor side stand switch solenoid valve (california) diode oil level rel...

  • Page 397

    Fuses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279-280 headlight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258-261 horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268-269 ignition coil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245-246 system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243-245 ignitor unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....

  • Page 398

    Passenger footpegs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 rider floorboards . . . . . . . . . . . . 388-389 seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 side cover left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 sidestand . . . . . . . . . . . . ....

  • Page 399

    Primary drive gear . . . . . . . . . . . . 181-184 torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 r rocker arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102-104 s seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 self-diagnostic system. . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 serial numbers . . . . . . . . . . . ...

  • Page 400

    Toolbox cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383-384 panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-14 precision measuring . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-19 transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72, 190-195 middle drive shaft . . . . . . . . ....

  • Page 401

    402 wiring diagrams headlight horn switch left front turn signal & running light right front turn signal & running light starter switch engine stop switch headlight dimmer switch trip switch turn signal switch clutch switch carb. Heater fuse (15a) signal fuse (10a) headlight fuse (15a) ignition fuse...

  • Page 402

    Wiring diagrams 403 16 ac magneto battery starter relay main fuse odometer fuse (5a) starter motor spark plugs rear brake switch neutral switch oil level switch rectifier/ regulator starting circuit cutoff relay fuel pump speed sensor side stand switch diode oil level relay ignition coil ignition co...

  • Page 403

    404 wiring diagrams headlight horn switch left front turn signal light right front turn signal light starter switch engine stop switch headlight dimmer switch trip switch turn signal switch clutch switch carb. Heater fuse (15a) signal fuse (10a) headlight fuse (15a) ignition fuse (10a) free push gau...

  • Page 404

    Wiring diagrams 405 16 left rear turn signal right rear turn signal ac magneto battery starter relay main fuse odometer fuse (5a) starter motor tail/ brake light spark plugs diagram key connectors ground frame ground no connection connection rear brake switch neutral switch oil level switch rectifie...

  • Page 405

    Tire inflation pressure 1 xvs1100 models 0-90 kg (0-198 lb.) load 2 front 200 kpa (28.5 psi) rear 225 kpa (32 psi) 90-200 kg (198-441 lb.) load 2 front 225 kpa (32 psi) rear 250 kpa (36 psi) xvs1100a models 0-90 kg (0-198 lb.) load 2 front 225 kpa (32 psi) rear 225 kpa (32 psi) 90-200 kg (198-441 lb...

  • Page 406

    Recommended lubricants and fluids (continued) final gear oil viscosity single grade sae 80 hypoid gear oil multigrade sae 80w-90 hypoid gear oil grade api gl-4, gl-5 or gl-6 capacity 200 cc (6.8 u.S. Oz. [7.0 imp. Oz.]) brake fluid dot 4 battery maintenance free fork oil viscosity sae 10w fork oil c...

  • Page 407

    Maintenance and tune-up torque specifications (continued) item n•m in.-lb. Ft.-lb. Final gearcase oil filler bolt 23 – 17 fork bottom allen bolt* 30 22 fork cap bolt 23 – 17 front axle 59 – 43 front axle clamp bolt 20 – 15 front brake caliper mounting bolt 40 – 30 front caliper retaining bolt 1999-o...