Connoisseur Models Six Wheeled All Third Coach Instructions Manual

Summary of Six Wheeled All Third Coach

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    Six wheeled all third coach protot yp e. M ost of t he pre grouping ra ilw a y companies built six w h eeled coaches to similar desi gns. M a ny continued in ser vice on branch lines until the 1950’s and oth ers w ere con verted for engineers department use. T his kit is based on a s&djr prototy pe ...

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    General instructions please read this section carefully, especially if this is your first etched brass kit. Many modellers fight shy of working in this medium, but the basic skills are relatively easy to acquire. Once you’ve learned how to form and solder brass, you’ll find all kinds of modelling po...

  • Page 3

    The joint with the iron tip. Don’t load the iron tip with a lot of extra solder, but work the joint in 1” lengths, bringing in small quantities of solder. Brass is a very forgiving material and if you get something out of alignment, use heat from the iron to desolder the joint before starting again....

  • Page 4: Six Wheeled

    Page 4 centre line 43mm 86mm 10mm 10mm lamp holder bung stands lamp holder rainstrips from w ire roof and com p a r t m e n t det a il six wheeled all third coach.

  • Page 5

    The prototype all third coaches were built by the somerset & dorset joint railway and then passed into southern railway ownership, sample running number, 54. S&djr coach livery, roof - light grey. Bodywork and solebars - prussian blue with all panel edges lined in gold. Axle guards, footboards, meta...

  • Page 6: Six Wheeled Coach

    7 6 5 5 1 1 11 10 12 fill gap with solder file to get good fit six wheeled coach main body assembly this drawing shows ner four wheeled saloon coach but main body construction is the same for all coaches in the range. 6 end steps fit end steps into slots from inside before main assembly. 3 2 fit doo...

  • Page 7

    Six wheeled all third coach assembly instructions 1. I prefer to add components to the sides and ends before assembling them into the body of the coach. First take the sides (parts 1) and fold the top edge through 90 degrees (a set of simple bending bars are recommended for all the long folds of the...

  • Page 8

    3. Take the coach ends (parts 5) emboss the bolt heads for the step plates and then fold the bottom to form a u section to represent the ends of the buffer beam. Fold up the steps (parts 6) and fit into the slots from the inside. Use plenty of flux so that the solder flows through the slots to fill ...

  • Page 9

    6. I now prefer to fit the lamp brackets (parts 12) and handrails. The central fold on the brackets is a reverse fold and folds back upon itself. I reinforce the folds by holding the bracket in a pair of long nosed pliers and flood the folds with flux. I then touch the tip of the soldering iron load...

  • Page 10

    Once the evostick has set in the outer axle guards you can fit the centre ones. Drill out the bearing holes 2.7mm diameter (slightly oversize) and file the spring end plate slightly to clear the vee hanger. To achieve maximum side play file down the pin point ends of the axle until the bearing nearl...

  • Page 11

    10. Drill out the buffer bodies with a 2.1mm drill to take the cast buffer head/ shank. Hold the drill in a hand pin vice (chuck) and grip the buffer body between finger and thumb. Drill through the body from each end so that the hole breaks through in the middle. Use a little spot of spit on the en...

  • Page 12

    There are two grab handles above the end steps at the end of the roof. Drill 0.75mm holes for these and make grab handles from 0.7mm brass wire. If you don't want to glue the roof into place using evostick after painting (this glue joint can be split with a knife blade if you ever need to get inside...

  • Page 13

    13. Painting is a vast subject that cannot be covered fully here. The important thing with a metal model is to get a good base coat of primer. Hopefully you have been cleaning up and washing the model at the end of each modelling session, but it will still need thoroughly cleaning before painting. I...

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    Page 16 tapered reamer & fibreglass scratch brush the use of these tools is mentioned in the instructions. These and most other general modelling tools can be obtained from squires model and craft tools, 100 london rd, bognor regis, west sussex, po21 1dd, tel 01243 842424. They do a free catalogue a...