Connoisseur Models Six Wheeled All Third Coach Instructions Manual - page 8
3. Take the coach ends (parts 5) emboss the bolt
heads for the step plates and then fold the bottom to
form a U section to represent the ends of the buffer
beam. Fold up the steps (parts 6) and fit into the slots
from the inside. Use plenty of flux so that the solder
flows through the slots to fill any gaps. Fit the coupling
plates (parts 7) located over the coupling hook slot in
the buffer beam. I tinned the back of the plate and
sweated it into place to reduce the risk of solder filling
the slot.
Now assemble sides and ends together. The top and
bottom strips of the sides and the fold around ends of
the buffer beams will help with positioning. I place the
plain coach end onto a flat surface and locate a side
onto it tack soldering at the bottom strip joint. I repeat
for the second side and then fit the stepped end at the
other end to make up the box of the body. Check that
you are happy with the position of the parts and that it
looks as if the body will not be twisted. If required
adjust by resoldering the joints. Place the plain end
down again and run fillets of solder up the inside of the joints. Again work 1/3 at a time on
alternative sides (watch out for the ends bowing inwards with the heat) and then repeat for the
stepped end. Then dress the outside of the joints to give crisp square corners.
Page 8
4.
Take the solebars (parts 8) and emboss the bolt heads. These bolt heads are designed to be
embossed using a scriber with the point rounded off slightly on an oilstone. Place the part, face
down, onto a block of softwood and then press the scriber point firmly down into the half etched
hole, this may distort the part slightly, so gently correct this by bending back with finger and thumb
pressure. If you have a rivet forming tool, particularly of the drop weight type, you should find this
ideal but as I like to make the half etched holes fairly generous to allow for scriber embossing go
gently until you get the feel for the amount of drop required.
Then fold the bottom of the solebar through 90 degrees. Solder the foot board brackets (parts 9)
to the face of the solebars (note the etched marks to help with location). These brackets fit level
with the top edge of the solebar but slightly short of the bottom edge (level with the top of the four
slots) to allow for fitting the footboard. Fit solebars locating in slots on underside of body, a little
filing at the ends may be necessary to get a good fit, and also solder well at the buffer beam joints
to hide any gaps.
Fit the top footboards (parts 10) locating into the four slots. It may be necessary to dress the
ends to get a snug fit around the buffer beam ends.
11
11
0.9mm brass wire
BOTTOM FOOTBOARDS
5. Take the bottom footboards
(parts 11) and fold the back edge
through 90 degrees. Then place along
the edge of two off cuts of 2”X1” wood
and fix in place with drawing pins.
Place the two pieces of wood opposite
each other, parallel and about 2”
apart. Solder across lengths of 0.9mm
brass wire located into the etched
grooves on the footboards. As the
footboards can be a little vulnerable to
damage I would suggest using 60/40
solder for these joints. Then snip the
wires down the centre to separate into
two footboards with hangers.