Connoisseur Models Six Wheeled All Third Coach Instructions Manual - page 7
SIX WHEELED ALL THIRD COACH ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
1.
I prefer to add components to the sides and ends before assembling them into the body of
the coach. First take the sides (parts 1) and fold the top edge through 90 degrees (a set of simple
bending bars are recommended for all the long folds of the coach and this first fold is made by
clamping the side and folding the top edge). Then form the curved tumblehome at the bottom of
the coach side.
Forming the tumblehome is an easy operation but is something of a mental hurdle for many
modellers and puts them off starting a coach kit while they dream up complicated ways of doing it
involving jigs and formers. Its one of those jobs that once you have done it you can not believe
how easy it was and wonder why it frightened you for years.
I form the tumblehome using only a foot long off cut of 3/4” copper water pipe (most forming jobs
from cab roofs to loco smoke boxes are started with this pipe off cut). I work the coach side over
the pipe gently forming the tumblehome curve with my fingers and thumbs. I find it easier to work
with the pipe held in my hands rather than down on the bench and in this way I find that I can roll
the pipe underneath the side as I form the curve using pressure from my thumbs on the front
surface of the side. I form about a 2” length of the side at a time working from one end to the
other. I find it requires three stages to form the tumblehome. The first to put a rough curve along
the entire length of the side, the second to form the correct radius along the entire length. This
radius wants to be slightly tighter than the curve on the coach end so use a end as a guide to form
this radius at the two ends of the side and then match up the centre section by eye. The third
stage is to remove any slight irregularities and kinks by gently working with just fingers and
thumbs as you eye down the length of the side. Then clamp the bottom edge in the bending bars
and using a steel rule to help transfer the pressure evenly along the tumblehome, gently fold the
side through 90 degrees (the steel rule will help to prevent flattening out of the tumblehome curve
that you have just put so much effort into forming). When you make this bottom fold it will also
help to remove any last slight irregularities in the tumblehome curve. You will note that the bend
line for this fold is not a continues half etched line but has short full etch sections in it to reduce
the amount of pressure required to fold the side. Once you have assembled the sides and ends
and are happy with them you may wish to run a fillet of solder along the inside of the fold to
strengthen it. If you use plenty of flux some solder should flow through the full etch sections filling
any slight gaps that may be visible and then you can dress the bottom of the side with a flat file to
give a crisp outside edge. Don’t reinforce this fold before assembly of side and ends or you wont
be able to tweak any slight adjustments into the bottom strip to make it completely flat.
You should try to get the tumblehome curve as even as possible but if you go to a preserved
railway and look along the tumblehome of a wooden panelled coach you will be surprised at how
uneven they are.
2.
Fit the droplights (parts 2) behind the door window openings. I place a droplight onto a piece
of 1”X1” wood and then place the coach side on top so that I can centre the window opening over
it and then fix it with a single tack of solder. I then turn the side over and solder the droplight firmly
to the rear of the side.
4
2
3
DROPLIGHTS
VENTILATORS
& HINGES
Fold up the door hinges (parts 3) and fit into the slots from the
rear with the longest projecting ones at the bottom. I hold them in
place with a knife point and using plenty of flux spot solder them.
Hopefully some solder will flow through and fill any gaps in the
slot around the hinge but if you only use a small amount of solder
it shouldn’t run up the door lines requiring a lot of scraping with a
knife blade to clear it.
Fit the door ventilators (parts 4) centrally into the top panels. I
tin the backs first and then holding them into place with a knife
point and using plenty of flux sweat them into place using only a
small amount of solder on the iron bit therefore requiring very
little cleaning up.
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