Connoisseur Models Six Wheeled All Third Coach Instructions Manual - page 13
13. Painting is a vast subject that cannot be covered fully here. The important thing with a metal
model is to get a good base coat of primer. Hopefully you have been cleaning up and washing the
model at the end of each modelling session, but it will still need thoroughly cleaning before
painting. I give my models a good scrub with a stiff-bristled paint brush in a sink full of hot water,
as hot as your hands can bear, and cheap washing up liquid (the expensive stuff that’s kind to
your hands has an oil in it that will stop the paint keying to the metal). If you know somebody who
works in catering and can scrounge you some industrial-strength liquid, this is better still. Then
rinse the model a couple of times in clean warm water and place in a dust-free box to dry. I use
car aerosol primer and Halfords grey primer is one of the best. For the best results you want to
spray at room temperature (25°C) on a dry day, avoid cold, damp or humid days. I find it helps to
warm the model to about 30°C (put it in the airing cupboard overnight) and I warm up the paint tin
by putting it onto a radiator (about 40°C, but use your common sense as I don’t want anybody
blowing themselves up). I find it best to prime the model in two light coats, about 15 minutes apart
and then leave for 48 hours to harden off (in the airing cupboard in a dust-free box).
I brush-paint my models with Humbrol enamel (you may wish to look at car aerosol paint for the
main body colour). For years I just stirred it up and painted straight from the tin but I was never
completely happy with the results. Recently two things have transformed my painting. The first
was a copy of Martyn Welch’s book, The Art of Weathering, Wild Swan Publications, ISBN 1
874103 11 9. Martyn’s basic techniques are very useful and almost foolproof. Martyn’s method of
mixing a little coarse talcum powder into the paint to give a slightly textured roof is particularly
effective. The second thing is to mix the paint in the tin and then transfer it to a palette (a sheet of
clean plasticard) with blobs of lighter and darker shades of paint surrounding the main colour.
Then work the paint with the brush on the palette, slightly varying the tones of the paint. This
seems to totally change the texture of the paint and the way it goes on and covers on the model.
Fit a floor made from the card that the etch was packed on. This is a good quality mount board
card and is very stable. I prefer to fit a card floor rather than brass or plastic as it tends to deaden
any tinny rattling noise as the coach is running giving a more prototypical rumble. Glaze the
windows using clear plastic sheet (you may wish to try model aircraft shops for this) glued into
place using Micro Sol Kristal Klear a PVA type adhesive beloved of aircraft modellers which
seems to stick glazing to any other material and as its name implies dries absolutely clear.
Then fit compartment partitions again made from the card. I prefer to paint the entire interior matt
black as I find that a fully detailed interior is hardly visible when running on a layout.
Glue the roof into place with Evostick, used as a contact adhesive following the manufacturers
instructions.
Prototype Reference, This coach was developed from an article in the July 1975 issue of Model
Railway Constructor.
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