North Road Technologies Geyser 6000–3.0 Installation & Owner's Manual - page 8
SECTION 2—LOCATION
•The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ can be set on the floor, or on blocks of wood or concrete. Care
should be exercised when mounting the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ that vibration and noise are not
transmitted to other areas. Always consider the air discharge direction in selecting a location;
do not allow the discharged air to be deflected off of a nearby surface and recycled into the
GEYSER 6000–3.0™.
•The base of the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ should be installed at a height no higher than the top of
the water heater. Installing the GEYSER 6000–3.0 higher may cause the water pump to become
air locked, limiting the operation of the unit.
•Piping between the GEYSER 6000–3.0 and the water tank should be kept as short as possible
and well insulated to minimize heat loss.
•The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ must be weather-sheltered. It must not be installed in corrosive
environments. It must not be located where temperatures surrounding the unit drop below
40°F. (4.5 C.), or go above 120°F. (49°C.).
•To insure adequate air circulation around the GEYSER 6000–3.0™, install in a room with at least
1500 cubic feet (42 m³) of air space such as a 12 foot by 15 foot room with an 8 foot ceiling
height (3.7 meter by 4.6 meter room with a 2.4 meter ceiling height). If installed in a smaller
enclosure (such as a utility closet), the exhaust air from the unit should be ducted out of the
closet and the door should be louvered. The required minimum total free air flow area of the
louvers or vents is 150 square inches (968 cm²). If the design and free area is not known, it
may be assumed that wood louvers will have 20-25 percent free area, and metal louvers and
grills will have 60-75 percent free area.
SECTION 3—PLUMBING
The Plumbing Connection Kit, (see photo page X), consists of:
Installation requires a simple condensate disposal drain or other method
to remove the condensate. If there is no laundry or floor drain nearby,
other simple options include drilling a 1/2” hole through the band
joist and running the tube to the outdoors at an angle that will allow
it to drain and not freeze, or drilling through the floor if practical. The
condensed water is clean. A condensate pump kit is available from North
Road Technologies as an option.
Turn off water supply to the tank, and open a hot water faucet somewhere
in the house (leave this faucet open until you have re-filled the tank later
in this section). If faucets are not available close to the unit, an upstairs
faucet will also work. Drain the tank by connecting a garden hose to
the unit, and discharge the water to a sink or outside. Once the tank is
empty, turn the water supply water back on to the tank, flushing the tank
until the water is clean. The opened faucet should remain open during
the flushing process. When the water is clean, any sediment in the tank
should be gone, and then you can proceed.
A 3/4” hole must be drilled into the hand-
hole cover, near the center of the cover.
Extreme caution must be used for safety
reasons and to maintain the integrity
of the cover during the drilling process.
One example of the how to complete the
drilling process successfully is to connect
the cover to a scrap block of wood as
shown. If the scrap wood method is not
used, then the cover could spin and the
sharp edges of the cover can cause bodily
injury.
Using a 7/8” hole saw, drill a hole
near the center of the cover.
Remove the hand-hole cover from the
water tank. These may be held in place
with screws, or there may be a press fit
depending on the make and model of your
water heater. The photo indicates an oval
shape cover, but these can sometimes be
square, round, etc. depending on the make
and model of your tank.
SECTION 4—ELECTRICAL
The Electrical Connection Kit consists of:
(1) wire nut
(1) cord/strain relief mechanism, attached to Geyser
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