Quickie Q2 Lite Construction Manual - page 34
Do not mix with a brush. The bristles can soak up the hardener,
changing the ratio. Use a tongue depressor or wood stick.
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The working temperature has a substantial effect on the pot life
and cure time. Very hot conditions will cause the cure to speed up. In
cold working conditions the cure will be delayed and if it is cold
enough, epoxy may not cure at all. Working temperatures must be
between 70° and 9O°F. A range of 75 to 80°F is best. Be sure to get a
wall thermometer (approx. $1.50 at any general store) to check the
temperature of your work area. At 75°F, 5-Min must be used within four
minutes, and Safe-T-Pox must be used within 20 minutes.
.....
Cold epoxy results in increased time required to do a layup,
since it takes longer to "wet" and to squeegee the cloth. A layup at
65° may take almost twice the time as at 75°F. On most layups (except
for joining foam cores) its best to have 75 to 80°F room temperature
and 80 to 9O°F epoxy. Resin and hardener can be kept warmer than room
temperature by keeping it in a cabinet with a small light bulb on. DO
NOT store your resin or hardener on a cold floor if you plan to use it
within the next several hours. If YOU let your shop get cold between
working periods, keep some resin and hardener in the warmest place of
your house for use on the next layup.
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Save your mixing cups, as they can be used as a quality check of
your epoxy. After a day or two take a sharp knife point or scribe and
scratch the surface of epoxy in the cured cup. If the epoxy cured
properly, the scribe will make a white scratch mark. If the epoxy
hasn't cured, the scribe will make a dull ridge, indicating a soft
surface. If this occurs, the epoxy has not cured, either due to
inadequate time or temperature, or bad mixing, or bad epoxy.
MICROSPHERES
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Microspheres are a very light filler or thickening material used
in a mixture with epoxy. Micro, as the mixture is called, is used to
fill voids and low areas, to glue foam blocks together, and as a bond
between foams and glass skins. The glass bubble-type supplied is
lighter than most common types. Microballoons must be kept dry. If
moisture is present it will make them lumpy. Bake them at 250°F; then
sift with a flour sifter to remove lumps.
.....
Micro is used in three consistencies; a "slurry" which is a one-
to-one by volume mix of epoxy and microspheres, "wet micro" which is
about two-to-four parts microspheres by volume to one part epoxy, and
"dry micro" which is a mix of epoxy and enough microspheres to obtain
a paste which will not sag or run (about five parts-to-one by volume).
In all three, microspheres are added to completely mixed epoxy.
.....
You do not have to accurately mix the microspheres; just dump
them in until the desired consistency is obtained. Micro slurry is
used to paint over foams before glass cloth is applied over them.
Slurry is almost the same viscosity as the pure epoxy and is runny
enough to apply with a brush. However, the easiest way to apply slurry
is to pour it onto the surface and spread it out evenly using a
squeegee. When skinning urethane foam use a full thick coat of slurry.
Inadequate slurry on urethane can result in a poor. skin bond. Wet
micro is used to join foam blocks, and, while it is much thicker than
slurry, it is still thin enough to sag and run (like thick honey). Dry
micro is used to fill low spots and voids and is mixed so that it is a
dry paste that won't sag at all. In all three micro types, you don't
measure, just add microspheres until the desired consistency is