Quickie Q2 Lite Construction Manual - page 63
SKIN PROTECTION
.....
If you work with epoxy on your bare skin, you can develop an
allergy to it. This "sensitization" to epoxy is an unpleasant
experience and is to be avoided. You generally have to get epoxy on
your unprotected skin to become sensitized. If you use a protective
barrier skin cream like Ply No.9, or disposable plastic medical
examination gloves, the allergy can be avoided. The barrier skin
cream also allows you to clean up with soap and water after a layup.
.....
The Safe-T-Pox epoxy systems are very low toxicity. However, a
few people (about 1 percent) may be sensitive to epoxy. These people
can get some help by using doctor prescribed anti-allergy medicines
and/or by using elaborate masks/multi-gloves, etc, to reduce
exposure. Remember to always use skin protection and never let epoxy
come in contact with bare skin, even if you have no reaction to it.
Sensitivity is accumulative, such that you may later develop an
allergy unless you protect your skin.
DUST PROTECTION
.....
Sanding or grinding fiberglass and foams creates dust that can
be harmful to your lungs. Use a dust. respirator mask for these
operations. Disposable dust masks are available at most paint stores.
VENTILATION
.....
Mix and work your epoxy in a ventilated area. If your shop is
not ventilated, set up a small fan to move a small flow of air in or
out. Do not hotwire urethane foam.
HEAT DEFORMATION AND CREEP
.....
Several builders have had flying surfaces warp or bend due to
being poorly supported until fully cured. Do not hang or support them
at each end for long periods as they may "creep" or slowly deform.
Store them leading edge down with support in at least three places.
Your surfaces can be better protected against "creep" if you post-
cure them. Sailplane manufactures do this by putting the entire
airplane in an oven at 160°F. You can do it as follows: After you
have painted on the black primer put the wing or canard out in the
sun. Be sure it is well supported in at least three places along its
span. At noon a black surface can reach 140 to 180°F. giving it a
relatively good post-cure. After the post-cure, the structure is more
stable for warping or creep. If you have a wing or canard that is
twisted wrong, apply a twisting force in the opposite direction
before and during the post-cure (weights applied to boards, Bondo’ed
or clamped to the surface can be used). Remove the force only after
the surface has cooled. A 200 ft-lb torque (50 lb weight on a 4 ft
arm) applied twice, once while the top surface is post-cured and once
for the bottom, surface, can twist your wing or canard over one
degree. The twist correction will be permanent and will stay as long
as the surface remains cool (below the post cure temperature). This
is generally referred to as the heat-deformation characteristic of
the epoxy. If it is room-temperature cured only, it will soften above
140°F. But if post-cured it will not soften until over 160°F. Heat
for post-curing or for intentional deforming can be applied by other
means such as heat lamps, hair dryers or electric radiant heaters
(house-hold type), however this is generally not recommended, since